yamahaD4L

Pics to fotown42087@gmail.com.

Ive got some 35 TMs on alky. First timer on alky. Bought them as they sit other than putting a different power jet on it. Not sure about the needles or pilot cause when I dynoed it I didnt need to mess. The main I drilled out to 116 thousandths. Im running stock bore 4mill stroker. Can check and repost later. Only got 4 passes before I smoked it Sat at Silver Lake. My own fault forgot to top my tank off ran lean and most know that melt down sound. Will get bavk to you once I get back and tear them apart. Be a good reference I guess.

Axle pics fotown42087@gmail. Thanks

Info and pics on the swinger?

Those the toomey snap ring ones or just the ones that clamp on?

How much shipped for flywheel?

Could you get some closer pics of the axle? JJA makes a drag, hillshooter, and play. Going to guess its actually the hillshooter being the drag only adjust out to 26inch. Maybe take a measurement to double check? Also what price shipped to Ohio?

That is all in the clutch adjustment. If you have a repair manual it explains this. Im sure theres some threads also if you search up "clutch adjustment". Make sure the adjust nut is tight. Have had it fall off in the case and loose movement before. Also could be tragic if the nut gets into the wrong place. Fortunatly was lucky.

Call me dumb but where are the deck and transfer points at on the cylinders? I have a 4 mill and ported stock cylinders. Got the stroker (ran for a year) then got the porting last year. Used offset ristpin pistons and thin plate. Did dyno runs both years and was falling on its face. Both years showed significant gains though. Could this be a timing issue as far as the ports? Thinking is electrical but after looking more into it am starting to think its my porting. Am goin to run the stock ristpin location pistons and the thicker plate this year. (got a deal on the piston kit)

Thanks for the reply. I only dune ride. Like to drag but also just dune. Found some threads earlier too on alky. Looking like Im goin to go with some 33s and stick with gas. Still want to try with the stockers only to prove my buddy wrong and that it can be done with what i got. Just not wanting to rebuild this year. Chances are high being my first expierence with alky. Off subject a little but whats the diff with the PWKs and the PJs?

The eliminate kit requires drilling and tapping of both carbs for the idle screws. Without the idle screws there is no idle adjustment. If you dont know what your doing should hvae some one drill and tap them for you. Do a search and am sure there some listings of people that do them. (www.cascadeinnovations.net)(www.vitosperformance.com) Clears up alot of room and is easier to adjust idle after installing the kit.

Check out www.yfztech.com very good forum. Got a buddy with a 450. Using Athens big bore cylinder. Im pretty sure its cast but quality cylinder at a cheep price. Gettin 60 horse out of it now and thowin NOS to it this year. Very fast bike!

Wanting to try alcohol this year. Wondering what the pros and cons are to using alky. Have T-5s, .060, dune port (Venom), 4mill long rod stroker, adjustable timing plate, milled head, and bored stock carbs. Have dumps to put on my carbs but not sure if thats goin to be good enough. I know i need bigger carbs even if i wasnt going to run alky but on a budget. Is this setup possible for some extra ponys? Any info would be great.

what is the minimal head clearance to have and not have any worries? have heard .040 to .060.

if you want to get the most out of it your best bet is to part it out. its a pain but the only way to get some of your money back on a modded bike.

also wanting to shave my head for cheap mod. just stroked with 4 mill trinity crank 795 weiscos 65 bore. will be using 110 octane racing fuel. what is the best way to check clearance? i used modeling clay and a steel rule wasnt very accurate but got a jist of where im at now. about .060. how much clearance should be okay with octane im using. also work in a machine shop have thought of a few ways of going about shaving. what is the easiest and best setup to do so?

ive had that prob also. especially when you punch it on the asphalt or practice hole shots on the asphalt. i checked everything out like you and tightened my chain and this and that. i concluded that my tires were slipping and gripping. giving the effect that the chain was jumping or something to that effect. so it may not be how you got your shee setup it could be the fact that you just cant lay all the power the shee has on the ground. IMO dont think you have a prob with chain tension since youve tried a couple adjustments.

i was thinkin about a 4 mill also but looked at it as a package deal being that with the stroker comes bigger carbs $, bigger bore $, and porting $ to get the most out of it. im a budget man and thats a bit steep for me. im a big believer in getting the use out of the stock stuff and slowly making my way up to the stroker. thats JMO. im also a rookie and not an expert by anymeans but i think the 33's may be too much for what your doing. i guess that would depend on your bore.

is that a straight or tapered bore?

yeah im not lookin to spend money im lookin to save money. ive got some other things in mind to do yet this winter and dont want to run out of money. i also figure with a little help from Sredrum i cant go wrong. i see his work all time and it is top notch. thanks for the tips and opinions

I've saw a few times that some people have had there stock shee carbs bored. I have a buddy (Sredrum) that is doing YFZ 450 carb boring. He said to check into it and get some info. I have a few Q's about this topic. 1. Does anyone have any how too's out there (pics, posts, step by step)? 2. Any does or donts? 3. How big can I go? 4. Is it a hard modification to do (i have access to equipment and tooling)? 5. How well do they work? I guess to not drag this on with Q's, anyones input would be appreciated. Thanks (not sure if i went about putting this in the forum the right way damn newbies)

cheetahs are money guzzlers IMO. would be nice to be able to afford one but am lookin into a 421 kit. wont be for a year or so. got a 4 stoke buddy thats always raggin on me about needin a cheetah to kick his ass. we'll see!

had the same problem with mine. the plastic holes were split and leaking a little. bought the cascade cover. would look good if you could see it. not worried about it splitting again though.

sounds great. i followed your first one also. havnt attempted to split the case yet but plan on it this winter. want to get the stock crank trued and welded. more so want to do it to learn and check everything out. ill be looking out for that new post. agree on the bootleg cd.