2strokespirit

I did search and find 2 answers on this, but need more. I want a rush :-) so i am going to built a cub, I just want to know, does n cub have less bottem-mid power than a stock cylinder banshee? This aint going to change my mind on building a cub, i am just curious cause i know they are drag cylinders which does not make a lot of bottom end power, how much is horrible low end? Less than a stock cylinder? Thanks.

I just want to know if there is anyone out there that is using the elka linkage and shock on the rear, wil this cure some of the traction problems the banshee has? Thanks

Hi, can some of u tell me what would be a good motor setup for cross country, wil a cub do good? Should i just get my jugs ported? Thanx.

I raced a friends 2006 banshee this weekend, it has a set of pro circuits, v force 3s, k&n with snorkel removed, 1200 meters above sea level and the outside temp was a mildly sunny summers day. To my surprise he told me the bike run with a set of 240 mains and needle clip in 2nd position. The race was about 70miles crosscountry and there where times that i was going full throttle for 20 minutes in top gear without closing the throttle once, the bike never felt lean with 240 mains. Can this be true??

Is it possible that someone can give me the dimensions of a oversize radiator especially the thickness. Thanks

2006 banshee, pro circuit pipes, k&n replacment filter, airbox with lid, snorkel removed and v force 3 reeds. 1000m above sea level, average outside temp is 35 degrees C. What do you guys think wil my jetting settle on. Thanks.

Last weekend the air temperature was 46 degrees celsuis it is 115 degrees F. There was no way they bike could keep cool on that day while we were doing cross coountry on long straights at abour 8000rpm. I am not arguing, but my friends New LTR 450 fan just did not switch off and was running constantly, The one guy on a 2006 YFZ said that hid fan just never came on in almost any condition, and his fan was running as well, so we spoked about how hot it must be, the air that pass the engine and exhausts are so hot that my legs get irritated. We had to reduce speeds to a nice cruising speed for the bikes to run cooler. Like I said, in SA a modified banshee will not run cool enough in the summer when running cross country at high speeds with a stock radiator.

Ok, what I know over the years, make sure you run the 29L cdi, not sure what the cdi units are that is restricted or much less advanced. There is a website, i think its dutch, they have all the differances on the cdis and more restricted ones, Dont know if it still exist. We did a tests on a stock RD350 31K with the 29L cdi and just swoped it with the 85-86(non 31K) cdi and you would not believe the differance and it would just not rev that high, I did it myself one day because someone told me this and gave me the webadress to check it out myself, could not believe it. The 29L is the 31K and some other models cdi unit. Make sure you run the Y2 head, thats the higher compression ratio on the 350, that specific sguish on that head without the headgasket (I dont run head gaskets in race motors) is a very nice gap with good compression ratio, much better then the Y1. In SA here is a guy who built good quaility pipes, and a guy who built good quality CDIs not just a ordinary revbox wich dont work anyway. With the right exhaust and his CDI and stock porting I have seen 350 rev up to 15000 rpm!!!! Making power, not reliable without tz bearing ( or maybe any bearing at all) I know that 15000rpm is not useable in a quad but in a 2 wheel road bike its another story and some wont believe this I know, but this was useable 15000rpm!! The combination between the pipes and ignition was awesome (not without a welded crank please) The 31k cdi does not work with the high revving pipes, cdis curve run out at about 9000rpm, even with good high rev pipes, the cdi does not adjust the timing enough for more overrev, now some will say, adjust the stator but it does not just work that simple if you swop cdis and adjusting stators and see the differances on a dyno. So my point is that the 29L cdi is still not good enough for a modified RZ/RD350 motor. But its the best OEM one. But if you dont have a 29L please if you get one, and theres no differance, dont blame me, this is my experience over years. Why did you put the powervalve motor in?

I am a Rd/Rz 350 tunner, I have 2 RD350 YPVS motors with electrics (31K). Some here claim that you can just gain 5-10 Hp more with this motor. a RD350 YPVS enjin number 31K is 58HP in stock form with that crappy pipes already, i dont know if the guys that say 5-10 Hp knows that there were a few differances in the RZ/RD 350s, some RD's has a high compression head right out of the factory (Y1 and Y2 heads) and some were restricted on the cdi and some RZ350 YPVS models just made at around 40HP, and I am not talking about the 350 Lc the one with the non YPVS (almost banshee motor). Any way what I am trying to say is, if you want to get the stroger motor, look for the 31K with its electrics, it was 58HP, with just pipes and some small mods you run 70HP easily. I know that there was a motor (not sure of the enjin number) that was 2Hp or so stronger then the 31K, i think it was one in the late 80s and the 31k was from 83-84 in my country (SA). Some off the less powerfull RD/RZs were selling in the states and europe in the mid 80s. Ok so my point is a stock RD350 YPVS 31k, wil have almost 20hp over a stock banshee. So now I just have a few questions to guys running Rd?RZ motors. I have a 2006 Bnahsee with Pro Circuits, will the pipes fit on the RD/RZ350 motor when fitting it into a banshee frame, I know you have to make manifolds, but the Pro circuits run close pass the banshee jugs and head and the RZ motor has powervalves, will the left cylinder powervalve pulley casing be in the way of the pipe? I have a brand new 31K motor, ready to be installed when the banshee motor is done. What else should I watch out for when fitting the motor, any other mods except for the servomotor and wiring? Is the powervalve motor fun and worth it? Thanks

You wont believe this, but i have a pair or air deflectors, I made them from a alumnium sheet, polished, looks real cool. It was the first trick that I tried, mounted them the same way, with the grill's srews. Did make a little differance when riding real slow, I will buy the radiator and head anyway, cant keep the bike too cool can you? but thanks for the help.

I am from SA, its summer here and the outsize temp is over 40 degrees Celsius. I have a brand new 2006 banshee with some mods on, there is no way that this bike can keep cool when doing trails or cross country, not with a billet impeller or engine ice. I run distilled water and everything you can think of, i already tried, I have a heat gauge of good quality on my bike and it keeps in the 90(degrees celsius) and wil easily overheat when pushing over 8000rpm in top gear or speeds under +-40Km/h. The problem with the banshee is not the radiator size, but the airflow, there is not good air flow behind the radiator, cause the fuel tank is in the way, the airducts in the fuel tank cover just aint good enough. The banshees can run real cool in stock form, but modifications(more power, more heat) then they start to run hot. Running hot is not dangerous, its just to close to the danger point. Like i said the problem is airflow, buying a bigger radiator, give more area for more water to touch and more air to touch, so you can solve this with i bigger radiator, even if the airflow is not good. but if the banshee's same radiator was open and had no abstructions it would not be a problem to keep the motor cool under any riding conditions. I don't know how hot it get where you guys are riding, but thats my experience. Have you ever run a heat gauge to check enjin temp? a Freind of mine had the same problem here and bought a pro design oversize radiator and all his problems are gone. He had a billet impellor with in line coolers and everything and it could not do the job. I have no other option but to go for a oversizr radiator as well. Just though I'd chare my experience.

Ok so I just got back (2hours ago) from Vosburg Rally in South Africa. We drag raced today, My banshee is a 2006, with Pro Circuits, v force3, 39 rear sprocket, K&N in airbox with lid for cross country, anyway, thats all this bike has on her. There were 700 raptors, piped and cams, YFZ450s TRx450 Bombardier 650s you name it, it was there. I know my friends YFZ450 beats me on the first 200m of the !/4 mile, but then i pass him if he is on a game watch, anyway, I won the day, I have to say the raptor with the pipe and cam and stuff is almost that fast, but my bike is still the fastes, even on top end, I weight 100kg anf the other guy on the 450s were in the 80s and the guy on the raptor was also light. I thought they are going to smoke me. This is the truth and nothing else, The banshee got the day and I smoked them evry single drag and started to enjoy it. 4 Stroke guys, 350 twins is FAST, and here to stay!! The guy on the 700 raptor had a Banshee before, he said the raptor is Faster, but after the drags he said he cant believe it!!

What is the better schock? Ohlins or elka compression & rebound adjustable regular travel? Does anyone have a set of ohlins shock on their bike?

If the bike starts pushing coolant out it starting to overheat, you are supposed to stop and let the bike cool down, or just cruise into the wind so let the motor cool down. I dont like builders that uses silicone, topgasket seals without using any sealant, if silicon were used and the head gasket sealed, that was not the reason the bike overheated, so its not the builders fault. You should not ignore a bike that pushes out coolant, thats the first sign of overheating. Its probably your own fault for keeping the bike running, it overheated and seized up. Yamabond or permatex is the only thing i would use on gaskets, although i dont like using bonds. Anyway good luck.

South Africa!!!!!!! Damn :-)

Hi I am from SA. I just want to know can someone tells me who is an authorised works shock dealer, where i can get good prices. Thanks

Awesome Thanks!!!

HI Thanks Is it possible that you can post a picture of the arms. Thanks

I just did a search on fireball a-arms, i cant find anything, but our local Can am/Bombardier team South Africa race with them cross country and they say they are excellent. I can get a set for my banshee, but i dont know, maybe they are locally manufactured, anyway do anyone know them or have them on their shee? Thanks

I have a 2006 Banshee with pro circuits, K&N, v force 3s and some other mods, anyway, I want to know from some of you that has temp gauges on your bike, what is your bikes operating temperature on a hot day say 40-45 degrees celsius. I am in sunny South Africa and its summer now and very hot, in my part of the country it can get very hot. I have done some cross country this weekend and on wide open throttle the temp keeps climbing from 88 to 102 degrees celsius easily on my temp gauge, I recon it is normal because of the hot air temp, but i am just curious, (if you have a temp gauge on your shee) if some of you hammer your shee on a track or cross country what are your temp readings, if i ride under 6000 rpm it does not go over 88 to 90 celsius on a hot day, but on 8000rpm it just starts climbing rapidly to 102 celsius and i dont like it, its not good for the motor. Anyway I think some of u will be surprise to see how hot these banshees get if you put a temp gauge on your bikeand ride it on a hot day, I prefer not to run the motor on temperatures over 95 celcuis. Anyway i woould apprciate some temp readings from u guys. Thanks

Just wondering, i did a search, cant find any info, can one rebuild a welded crank? Thanks

Hey, thanks, where can i get them from? I am from South Africa. Thanks

A lot of builders i know says, stay away from a forged piston in a 2 stroke motor, they seize up for nothing?. Is that true? I am a builder myself, never use wiseco although i like them, ever other builder in SA wil tell u to stay away from a wiseco forged piston (or any forged piston). What is your experience, cause i want to rebuil and try them out. Thanks

Torque wins races, horsepower sells engines. I agree, i love torque!!.