2strokespirit

I live in SA, if anything get shipped over here and there is an issue, it needs to go back, and its not cheap.... Even if there are a few that might take the back loading I am still not convinced.... I also want a 1-6 and at that time it was only the WCR extremes that was available that I knew of......

We bought the first 2x 7mm servals from Jeff at FAST... We both planned on building trail motors, and what an awesome trail motor this is, torque, torque, torque.... For this reason I stayed away from a override, to many bad stories about WCR extremes.... The motor has a complete cut tranny, gears and dogs where machined, modded shift star, the drum is cut to fit a bearing, everything is on bearings.... It will shift under normal load or even higher rpms it will still shift like butter, the moment you put a severe load on the motor like in the sand or climbing a steep hill and pin it, or maybe a drag race, it will not shift, you have to really pull the clutch in (almost take time to do it) and then change the gears... If you just blip the clutch it won't freaken shift for nothing, I am not even talking about quick shift or clutch less shifts.... The only thing that will make this motor shifts quick and easy is a override.... The biggest problem is not to get it in the next gear, its to get it out of the gear its in.... I recently heard HJR has a FULL 1 - 6 override, dunable, not sure how long he has been cutting them, so has no feedback on these yet....

PM send about pipes!! Thanks

Banging the head maybe, whats the squish?

I have imported BOSS intakes, they came with CRACKED boots brand new... It really sucked... They had no part number on them, so I went on and had to order new carb boots from Mukini... They are almost 3 years old on some motors with no problems...

Thanks... I only need a few parts to finish.... Will keep you guys updated....

Thanks a lot, appreciate it.... Yes I can't wait to feel the serval.... She will run in early June.... I did build a 4mm RZ in my banshee in 2007 and she ripped!!

HI Guys... I see everyone is on the Hybrid topic so I thought I'd posted some of my LTR pics.... I started the build on the 11-6-2009.... Time is my main issue for not getting it finished.... I am also building a 7mm serval now, so after that I think I will stick some money into the LTR and finish it.... I still have to strengthen up the frame, so the fabrication is NOT finished yet.... Unlike the YFZ its def a little more complicated, but nothing serious for anyone with fab skills..... First was the few hurdles I had to come over.... The LTR's frame has the same 2 frame tubes like the YFZ, but they are in the way and needs to be removed (see in the pics)..... The left one are exactly right in the middle, close to the exhaust pipe manifold, there is no way the exhaust will clear it, unless you have a damn sharp bend there... I also did not like the look of those 2 frame tubes, it doesn't seem to fit there with the motor, so I removed them...... On the LTR the motor seems to fit much closer to the radiator and fan, so less space for the pipes to clear.... I had to fab up strong engine mount that I needed to keep UNDER the motor to make the left pipe clear easy over the mounts and to rule out the engine mount exh issue and let the motor move more forward to clear the rear shock.... SO the front mounts is not the best looker, but strong enough and out of the pipes way now.... I think once painted you wont't even notice them.... The other thing was that it seems that the LTR swinger has a much sharper angle then banshee and YFZ, this is a small issue with the Banshee motor that the front sprocket is not close to the rear end of the gearbox.... You need to get the front sprocket as close as possible to the swing arm pivot bolt, this will result in the least chain slack/tighten when the suspension moves up and down.... On the LTR it was a diff story.... When I mounted the motor and front sprocket in line and the motor as low as possible, even with my weight of 240lbs the angle of the swinger and chain slack/tighten was a issue... I have quickly draw some images on paint to show what I was trying to explain and make it easier to understand..... Sorry guys my english sucks, explaining things is not my best point... In the end I had to mount the motor slightly higher then I wanted to with the front sprocket a little higher, like in drawing 2.... It all worked out perfectly now... This is a pic with a motor in it, not fitted or cut yet, you can clearly see the frame tubing in the way of the motor and where it would be in the way of the pipes, I draw a red line there, mounting the motor there would make it sit to far back in the way of the rear shock, so those 2 pipes need to go........ Here are the rest.... You can see where I had to cut the frame tubing away ( the 2 frame pieces I was referring to in the beginning).. The front mount is also now fabricated and under the motor and out of the way of the pipes, giving me more room to fit pipes... I will be building my own set of custom pipes for this bike.... It will now get strengthened in another way to the front of the frame.... I will upload pics when I do that..... And here is the rest.... Here you can see the sprocket is a little higher then the pivot bolt.... The moment there is a little weight on the quad or all the parts is on the bike the chain runs in a straight line and not rubbing anywhere on the guide or swinger.... I have found the LTR to be the nicest handling 450, and for this reason I chose this chassis.... I also got it for a reasonable price, but it needs a lot of work.... I would love to go long travel with +3 arms with a nice broad power curve motor..... I don't know yet.... I wanted to do a 4mm RZ.... I will finish the bike and then decide on the rest.... The pipes will be done in the end... I might buy a cheap set first and make them fit just to get the feeling of the hybrid and then build a nice set that will fit.....

Does this one count? The LTR chassis involve more cutting and you need to keep the front engine mount frame bracket under the motor for the pipes to clear... Still far way to go and need to strengthen it up... Thinking of a 4mm RZ or stock stroke cub....

Interesting.... I am building a 7mm Serval on pump gas.... I am also going to run a Dyna.... The UCCR in this case is around 12.68:1, I am not familiar with your fuels but for 92, its on the edge.... Just a little timing might run you into problems..... At sea level you should be at 157 cranking psi (roughly) I don't know, sounds to much on the edge.... Other thing is, how is the cylinder piston wall clearance? I know it "should" be fine, but I'm just curious.... Cold seize with forge pistons can happen very easy, especialy with a tight clearance.... I did not see the pistons, understand it was due to cold seize, so it should rule out detonation (99%) anyway... If there is any sign of deto, I say your UCCR is to high for 92.... I won't run over a 12.5 UCCR on this motor MAX with 92... Add some timing and it will blow very quick! Let us know how she runs after rebuild... PS I heard of more stock cdi go wrong then Dynas.... Hope she runs soon!

I actually contacted him for the same thing, never got a answer, don't know if he didn't get my message, but I was also concerned about the same thing.... But by the looks of that pic, it seems the pipes fit a clear distance from the frame..... I still doubt its going to be a save fit.... 10mm would be safe IMO.... Please let me know if you purchase a set and if they fit savely... Thanks

Hi J.J Can you remember how much you payed for it here??

Hi Guys.... I am looking for a trusted buyer who will ship USPS to South Africa.... Looking for a clean set of cases with no breaks, cracks and good bearing surfaces..... Decent price as well.... I will pay PayPal.. Thanks Guys...

Julle mal Suid Afrikaners!!! Hehehe.... I need cases with no chain breaks and good bearing surfaces........

First of all, I am pretty sure you do not have a 20 tooth front sprocket on there.... Keep that ratios stock, or IMO go down one teeth at the rear.... Timing and domes/cool head, the 4 strokes will still beat you.... You and the 4 stroke will be head to head.... I can get you everything you want in South Africa.... From pipes to after market cylinders all the fancy stuff on here I import from either site sponsors or other people I know for a few years now... If you want to kick a 4strokes butt, get it ported and sort the traction issues out.... If you want to humiliate them put a 4mm stroker in there and get it ported for the addition stroke.... All can b done local....

I would rather put it in the cylinder head..... I am also looking into tapping my head for this.... Would like to fit a VDO mechanical gauge, only issue is the vibration... There are other gauge as well that can take the vibration.... It has been discussed on here....

Hi Jeff, thanks for exceptional service not even to mention prices hey!!

I Calvin, that was probably for me.... I was in the process of buying servals to go 7mm from a good dealer here.... :-)

For me its all about the low/mid grunt, everything on top is a bonus.... I agree for the guy out there that have to pay to build a 7mm serval would be almost a waste to make 5hp+ or so more, unless you know some people, because it will be lots of work and money for that extra few hp, 7mm crank, porting and maybe decking depending what durations you want.... BUT the torque curve will be even smoother and wider... I do my own work, cut my own heads, porting etc.... there was something that changed my life "LOW AND WIDE" on a high transfer.... We are looking into decking the serval to keep the exhaust port low and the transfers under 130s, not sure what the deck height of the stock serval is or base gasket, but putting a 7mm in there with -1.5mm deck height will bring the transfers to about 130.7degrees... With 0.5mm shave of the bottom you should be in the 128s.... I also think with the extra 3mm stroke, pro circuits etc this thing will torque like a train... I will try my best to put it on a Dynojet with stock carbs and 33s, just to see what she make..... For me its almost more fun building these things then riding them.... If it was not for the servals, I would have decked a 7mm cheetah cub.... Its all about the fun.....

But only in 68 and 72mm bore.... Ok so much more expensive then the serval..... Lets wait and see.... I must say, there are so many options available right now that I can't make up my mind... :-) This is why I will always have a Banshee in my Garage!!!

Will the Wampus be in 7mm with the Serval's port timings?? Then I will rather wait for them if so.... Any idea on pricing yet, or any more info will be appreciated? I understand this will be a stock look alike cylinder, but what else? Thanks

Why not? I have a few 7mm cranks, haven't use them yet....

We will be building a serval, hopefully 4mm and 7mm.... At this time it looks like 7mm, with pro circuits.... If all works out well, I will keep you guys updated if you are interested..... I will be cutting the stock head for this setup... All setups for 93 pump gas.... Nothing "serious" :-) Pro Circuits all the waaaaaay!!

James, make sure you did not put the wrong float bowl on the wrong carb when you opened them, they look identical, but are not, the one with the jet inside the bowl goes on the carb with the choke lever... This is the most common issue with your type of syntems... If this is the case, your choke will not work......