Washburn

Im getting mine next week from here http://www.farmandsandtoys.com/partdetail.asp?partid=75 Im also getting the Billet pro design Impeller from there. Did you get your Noss Head and Domes yet? Im thinking about getting a pair of 17 or 18cc domes to switch out for my 20ccs for about a week after I get my timing plate. Ill have to run straight race gas but I want the power. At least untill I get my port job then I will go back to the 20cc domes. Thats one thing thats so awsome about the Noss head you can easyly switch your domes out for more or less compression depending on what your suited up to ride at that current time.

Haha yeah, I wondered if anyone besides me and Ron would get that. BTW I sure could use your advise in my T5 T6 Thread. :beer:

I use Yamalube 4R 10w30 and Yamalube 2R at 32:1 and of course "60% of the time, it works, EVERYTIME".

Dude you told me Shearer = 123 Wheres the Power 456 OHHHHH SHIT WHAT DID I DO! I need that 123 to be heeeeeeeeeeellll yeah and the 456 to be BOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOM! Mabey if I get a more agressive style woods port I will pick up the CPIs. But like I said I NEEEEEED THAT 123!

Ha yeah ritte.I just spoke to the GM and she said they did the TR6 to T5 swap for free rite at the begining. But no longer. She also said sometimes they wont even do the swap unless its the upgrade swap t2 t3 t4 to t5s or tr6s.She said they just happen to have some extra T5s "Laying around the shop". I haggeled with her for about 15 minutes and she wouldent budge. The move from TR6s to T5s cost 375.00 for chrome. Shit Im better off trying to get 350.00 for them off ebay and getting a way better package deal. 350.00 plus another 350.00 get me the T5s in chrome with boysen reeds. Or even better a Greater set of PIPES! Chime in here I want to know what you all think

Yeah Ive heard of them swaping the TR6s for the T5s for freight alone. My pipes may be a year or 2 old and they have a little surface rust on them I could probably clean off without comprimising the chrome. There is one spot with a little melted leather from a boot on it about the size of a half dollar. But thats it. No way am I going to Pay 375.00 for T5s with the trade in. Toomey better talk to me. I just emailed them back and Ill let you all know what happened. Thanks, Neil

I did some research on trading Toomey my t6s for t5s and they said they will do it. You send in to Toomey Racing USA, Inc. your old pipes, stinger tubes (and optionally your silencers) and we will replace them with factory NEW T5 pipe bodies and stinger tubes (and optionally, silencers). Normally we will return ship the same day as we receive your pipes (provided we have stock on-hand, otherwise you will be the first priority when stock IS on-hand). The cost of the upgrade and of your preferred method of shipment will be charged to your credit card, or sent C.O.D. Certified check only. The price for the pipe body and stinger tube swap, from T2, T3, T4, to T5, or T5 to TR-6 OR, TR-6 to T5, is, $250.00 for bare steel "Works Finish" $375.00 for Polished Chrome. Additionally, if your silencers need replacing due to age and wear, you can opt for a new pair of silencers at this one time for only $125.00 extra. (A $150.00 Value). If you just need sound absorption material repacking, kits are available for only $19.99 for both silencers. I was just wondering for the price 375.00 for chrome I might just be better off selling them and getting a diffrent set of pipes to go with my Woods port job. I really like the T6s power and Ide imagine the T5s would generate the same kind of power that the T6s do. Question is is there a Better Pipe than the T5s for a woods bike? Im looking for as much all around power I can get out of Pipes. Also I am getting the +4 advanced timing plate in a week or so. Is it hard to install? Can you guys walk me through the install? I appricate it. Washburn

Yeah its fucked up. sorry children. Damn is it fucked up! Shit you kinda just convinced me into the 4 mil. Damn I aint got shit now how in the hell am I suposto afford that. Oh yeah, thank GOD for Buchanan Racing. Ahhhhhh I know he will hook me up.

Well the 4 mill might be a little to expensive but then again mabey not if I save. I dont know if that much power would be good for woods though. Might be a little too much Im having a hard time thinking rite now I have to put my dog SHADOW of 13 years to sleep tomorow. Im going to make an In memory thread sometime this week and this is a warning If anyone here disrespects the thread I swear to god if I ever find the person blood will be spilled. This is why Im not going to post it on the Pantera board Ive been a member on since day one. Im going to the bar tonight and Im going to have a few mabey cry in my beer I dont know but warning in advance if I post anything crazy tonight excuse it. If anyone wants to AIM me my screenname is BongzillaCFH. Bongzilla is one of my favorite bands so. Im off to the bar. Later and thank you guys for everything. Neil

Ha no man I run my bike at 32:1 and I will never change that. Im even thinking not to change the timing cause it might make my engine less reliable. Is this the case????? The T6s are going to have to go as I plan on getting an agressive woods port from Buchanan Racing. I plan on boring it out mabey .10 over getting some pro lites mabey a longer rod the port job and the V forces all at the same time. I just have absolutly no clue what Pipes Im going to get when I get rid of the T6s. I was thinking inframe CPIs but they are more for drag. FMFs but thats not that big of a change from the Toomeys and I like Toomey very much so mabey the T5s. Ill cross that bridge when I come to it. The biggest question on my mind is is this +4 timing advance going to affect reliability in the long run???? Thank you both for the responces and keep em commin :beer: BTW The Steeler game is on and we are handing the Chiefs their ASSES! HA HAAAAAAAA HERE WE GO STEELERS HERE WE GO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1

Ok, I am seeking more power out of the Shee and I have heard a +4 advanced timing plate would help me gain some needed power. Ive been thinking about it and I can see how it could mabey make the premix flow at a faster rate through the combustion chamber but is that really necessary on a stock bore ? Could it just make my engine less reliable? Is there any other way to gain power before doing this. I am not at risk of detonation yet would this put me at risk? Im also going to get my flywheel lightened ASAP and the port job and V3s will come this winter. Im running t6s 2in1 air filter ping kill switch/AKA my Key No parking break Noss Coolhead w 20cc domes elevation 1083 above sea level temp in the low 60s high 50s

Pics?

Youve been wearin them jimmy hats like grammama told you?

man you just gotta say to yourslf fuck that hoe. She aint worth the time cause if she was you wouldent be in the situation your in. Shit moves on and like anything it takes time but the best thing you can do is to get back in the game. DO NOT FALL OFF! Your better than that. RITE?

Yeah they are awsome grips. I just bought a pair and they are hands down the most comfterble grips Ive ever owned. It feels like they mold rite in your hand for no slip action. I havent rode them wet yet but I just bought a pair of MSR gloves so that should do the trick.

Yamalube 32:1 1 16oz bottle to 4 gallons of 93 octane. I dont think its worth it to run anything lessif you want more power switch out your domes advance your timing get a more aggressive port job its just not worth it to run less. Your just ASKING for problems if you do.

Oh Ok I see. See I was a little confused on what the Impeller really was. So your saying the head gasket is blown witch could cause all kinds of problems sighns of that being WHITE SMOKE!!! And if your gasket is blown well coolant is definatly running down your cylinder walls witch is a real bad deal. I learned this by installing my Noss head. I had a real hard time with the right screw it dident come all the way out cause of them T6s and some coolant ran down my cylinder wall and I spounged all that I could out. This makes sence. How are those Works shocks working out for you? My buddie at Buchanan Racing gave me a real realllllll good price on Elkas w/piggybacks for my big ass.

When was the last time you changed your oil? Make sure you go through all of that milky oil with your fingers and check for metal shavings. Use a sift and see if anything sticks in the screen. You can use your finger to swipe the ends of the exhaust and smell it if it smells like gas thats fine but if you can pick up a diffrent smell thats more than likely coolant. If thats the case get a pro circut Impeller cause that coolant is corsive as hell man it will eat all of your rings rite up. I know thats my next investment.

Yeah, I dident explain. The guy Im talking about I grew up with riding and I just found out he has a shop rite next to me. I havent talked to him in like 7 years or so. He knows his shit and hes dirt cheap. Put it this way, I feel like Im ripping him off when he sells me shit, and Im all about buisness!!! He gave me the spider grips for ten, he gave me the gloves for like 8, and he gave me free break pads and grip glue. I seen him deal with a few people and he gave them parts for next to nothing. He can port a Banshee like noones buisness, He works on alot of 4 pokes and everyone goes to him Espicaly people with 400EXs and the 450s Hes a madman on motors. He uses U2 in his 426 EX for GNCC witch is a High Octane mixed with Nitrous and he sells 110 for 6 dollars a gallon. Thats MY dealer. Next :biggrin:

You spend you last 30 dollars on new spider grips and MSR Gloves Then give your local parts dealer/mechanic 17.75 and a pair of studded Holeshot tires and tell him to credit you for future work he will do on your Banshee. Hi my names Neil and Im a BansheeAholic!!!! :beer:

I have the same setup as you. T6 Pipes I also have the Toomey twoin1 air filter. I just instaled a Noss coolhead with 20cc domes. I compared the Noss billet head to all of the other brands and his is far more advanced. The Head itself has coolant reflectors in it witch allows for far more even cooling than you get with the stock head and a cooler engine is always a longer lasting engine. The Noss head is also much lighter. The domes raise your compression so basicaly any dead spots in your powerband wake rite up and hit alot harder. I love it!!! You will have to talk to David about what domes you can run without worrying about racing gas/detonation. You can PM him here (dlnoss) He will answer any question you have. Believe me I called him atleast 3 times while I was installing the head and he took his time and answered every question I had making it easy.

Did you strip the screw or the head? If you stripped the head try a drill if that doesnt work try needel nose plyers/vice grips its a bitch but it can be done I just did mine that way. If worst comes to worst you will have to chissel it off. I never seen that tool Im definatly buying one though as I am prone to stripping screw heads and bolts.

Yeah I was pretty out of it last night now Im hungover blahh. I hear you on the doing it youself part man I really do. I just got my Noss Coolhead and domes and I took a look at the instructions and almost shit myself. Im gonna try my hardest and we will se what happens. Good luck with your project man.

Dude my shits worse than a hummer on nos, Na it all depends on how you ride how long you use wot personaly I check my shit when I think Im getting out of the range of gas/oil. Thats all.

feel. feel. haha feel. Im drunk as a skunkard get some pro lites O Rings all of that good shit. Get someone to hone your shit get it ported install the pistons yourself and you set G. I need some pussy cat rite now.