96bansheepilot

i am having problems w/ my clutch. it seems like the clutch is slipping in first and second gear at full throttle then when i hit third it wants to grab and go. basically when i shift from 1st to 2nd it seems like the engine is revving but i'm not accelerating fast. almost like i didn't hit the gear correctly. so i adjusted the clutch to where i had just a hair free play in the end of the lever and now it wants to drag when i have the lever pulled all the way in. i run mtl 80 wt. oil, about 1.8 quarts and i have a brand new f.a.s.t. clutch w/ a brand new billet basket and also a new pressure plate and hub. i also bought the pancake bearing set up. one thing that always bothered me is that the release lever on top of the case is about a centimeter to the stator side of the pointer. when supposedly it needs to be at the pointer when engaged. when i have the clutch pulled all the way in at a stop and rev the engine it seems like it wants to grab a little, the bike goes foward a foot or so. the cable on this thing is new also. i have replaced everything and it is driving me nuts. i also purchased a modified shift shaft from fast and i adjusted the shift shaft while in frist gear. everything looked perfect. since the clutch is not fully disengaging it is making shifting more difficult. but at the same time it seems like it is slipping. wtf is goin on. when the bike is off and ice cold i can pull the clutch all the way in and put it in 1st gear and it doesn't want to free roll. the bike feels like i have the clutch totally out, the wheels lock up when i try to roll it. it this normal. also if the bike is hot and i try to start it in gear w/ the clutch pulled in, it wants to take of like it is dragging real bad. please help w/ anything. this is as much as i can tell you unless you have a ?. thanks to all.

i ran front max's for a couple years and they performed great. never had a flat just went bald after a while, good tire

don't know bout oregon but they are one of the loudest in frame pipes. imo

is there a difference between the cub/stock bore domes and the stock cylinder/stock bore domes? in other words, will the stock cylinder domes work on a stock bore cub? i know the compression readings will be different due to the exhaust port timing.

anyone have a chart to refer to. want to run race gas and need to know what domes i need to get. going to get 68mm cub ported.

i think i'm runnin 21's. i run 93 octane and it is perfect. i have not compression checked it in a while but when i did, it came up 155 psi. that was almost 3yrs ago when i built it. i don't ride much so it is still a fresh engine. i would love to get together on a bhq ride. i'm tryin to dump some $ in my shee right now.

i'm afraid not. i'm probably not goin out for a while. tryin to get deep in the drag scene. hopefully gettin back on the strip soon. i haven't even had the shee out in the dirt since the +6 swinger has been on it. just for kicks, when are you goin and what other bikes? i'll get back in the dirt eventually, it just won't be soon. tryin to get some high hp #'s out of my bike. thanks for the offer.

really think i've made up my mind on what set up i'm going to run.....35mm pwk's w/ a 68mm stock stroke cub. i'm probably going to run the cub w/ stock carbs for a little while til i work up the loot to get the carbs. has any body run this set up w/ stock carbs? and what should i expect as far as h.p........w/ the stock carbs and w/ the 35's? also the cost to get the extra power by getting them ported really looks good. i'm shooting for 80-85hp. thanks for the feedback...

does jeff at f.a.s.t. have a website to look into some of his bikes and business?

if u race on the street and you get a good spin in 1st, you should never get behind him but on the dirt you'll spin the tires like crazy. out of the hole, not even porting will help u unless you are on pavement. 100hp + no traction= slow holeshot. 50hp + no traction = slow holeshot. this is given you are on the dirt. and i am only refering to 1st-3rd gear in the dirt. the only cure is move to the street....then eat him up.

it seems like when i air the holeshots up, they hook like crazy and when i let the air out, they spin. what do you guys run in your tires as far as psi? knobbys or american racers or slicks......post them all....

thanx for the info. i think what i'm gonna do is get the carbs and dyno this damn thing. just to find out exactly what the heck i'm getting out of it. it is only like 60.00 to dyno the bike. the shop that has the dyno is only like 25 minutes from my house. i'll get it dyno'd and tel you what is does. probably won't be for another month or so but i'll dig this thread up and post it. going to the drag on wednesday, the 20th of sept. ....i'll let you know the e.t.'s. shooting for 8.4-8.5. who knows. just put a 15 tooth frnt sprocket and +6 arm on so we'll see.

excellent...........i love advice like that.......specific info w/ good results....will do...thanks. going to the track soon will let you guys know if i can drop my et's.

so should i set the toe just barely in on the front? i've always known to set the toe just a hair in. i also know that the straighter you toe is, the less rolling resistance= quicker e.t.'s. but probably not much to worry about.

excellent, thanks for the feedback, i think i'll try running them on the track now. thanks guys.

yeah but aren't the douglas wheels 5" wide? i'm trying to find some that are at the most 4" wide. then i can get 16" or 17" tall scooter tires for them.

looking to get front wheels and tires. looking to get 10" front wheels w/ small narrow tires and the only combo i've seen for sale is @ wickedatv.com. they are 10"x4" wheels and 17" tall tires. who makes these products and anywhere else to get them? i think they have an awesome deal going and will probably get them but i just want to shop around and get the make of the wheels and tires.

hey "bigboy", have you ever had the bike bounce around down the track? word is that when you launch, if the bike wheelies, it might bouce back up when it comes down and shoot you off to one side or the other because their is no suspension travel. i understand what might happen but it seemed pretty stable when i rode it. then agin my bike doesn't even break 8 seconds so my bike and yours is two different things.

dynoedge ported my cylinders and they advertised 70-72hp out of their port job. it was called "aggressive trail port". i don't think the port job makes nearly that much power. i raced a banshee that was non ported and was not pulling him at all. only in 6th gear was i pulling him barely. i spent about 400.00 dollars on the porting i think. it was about 3 yrs ago. i don't mind sending the cylinders off to get them ported again. full drag this time. i don't want to spend more than about 400-500 dollars though. and when i get them back, that bike needs to rip. i dont want to get it back and barely notice a difference like i did last time. i want to get aftermarket carbs first though. i just don't want my carbs to be the weak link in the engine. thanks for all your advice guys!!!

i'm probable going to get the cylinders re ported, full drag for 1/8th. probably going to stick w/ stock cylinders. just looking to get high 7's out of my bike and i'll be happy. i spoke to wicked motorsports and he is convinced i have a very light port job. it is a shame because i payed a lot of $ for it. i thought about getting pj's because that is what he recommended, and they are cheaper. who knows?

have a dirt digger clutch and don't know if i put more power on the bike, if it will hold. the bike seems to launch and shift just fine but i spoke to a guy at wicked motorsports and he says it is junk. would a lock up cure my worrying? if i did get a lock up, would it be just fine w/ the lockup?

just put some strut rods on and was going to run 1/8th mile drag but didn't want to kill myself doing it. wanted to know if they had any tendencies. i've heard they will pull or bounce you to one side or the other going down the track. any one run solid strut rods in the 1/8th? if so have you had any problems????

debating on getting new drag carbs but can't decide whether to get pj's or pwk's. i've heard from different people that each one is better. pwk's are offered on motocross bikes but i want a drag carb, best for top end. help!

there could also be a difference in port jobs.no two port jobs run the same,there is always a slight difference.as for the v-force reeds ,i myself prefer stock ported cages over v-forces but then thats just my preference. but his cylinders are not even ported, they are stock. do you think by me porting my bike w/ stock carbs, did nothing at all? i would think i would have pulled him at least a little......... i would think that the port job would definitely be good because dynoedge was porting bikes reaching 100hp on a stock stroke. of course i think they are out of business now so who knows.

i dragged a stock cylinder banshee w/ my ported banshee(agressive trail/drag port) and i was not walking away from him at all. only on the very top of sixth gear was i pulling him. he has t5's and the same cool head and dome size that i do. same +4 timing but he also has stock reeds and i have v-force 3's. i figured that i would pull him fairly easy but we were dead even in a 700-800 ft drag. the only thing i can think of is that i'm not taking full advantage of my port work because i have stock carbs. i believe they are my weak link. by the way we both have 14-41 gearing and 20" holeshots. are the carbs holding me back????????????help