96bansheepilot

i'm runnin 20" tall holeshots on the asphalt until i get some american racers.

well i guess my topic title explained my question. i have heard that if i am not using all of my gears then i need to go down a tooth on my front sprocket in order to use all my gears in the 1/8th. but then again, many people have told me to go up a tooth or two on the front because it will allow the bike to pull longer in the power band and acheive lower e.t.'s. is this accurate?

was wondering if slicks would be worth running or if american racers would be just as good or better. i've seen both on quads but it only makes sense to me to go w/ an 18 inch slick compared to an american racer tire because it would be lighter and you can make up the shortness of the tire w/ sprockets. rotating mass is supposed to be worth so much more than dead weight. i don't know how tricky the launches would be on the slicks though. it might buck you right off!!!

man,thanks for the advice. i'm all for tryin new things to lower the e.t. i'll order a 15 tooth also. cuz i just ordered a 16 tooth. do you think the higher front sprocket would lower my 60' times cuz i wouldn't be spinning the tires as much and maybe not getting to 2nd gear as quickly. who knows i'll try it....thanks

hey just wanted to know if i could look for lower e.t.'s w/ a 16 frnt sprocket instead of 14. my bike is ported w/ cpi's and noss head and v force 3's and plenty of other bolt-ons. i feel the bike has approx 65-70 hp. i'm only runnin 8.71 in the 1/8th. i was runnin a guy next to me w/ a 16 front sprocket and similar power and was beating me by .5 sec. i heard the reason why shee's run a higher front sprocket is because it keeps the bike in the power band longer instead of blasting through the power band and falling off. w/ a 16 tooth it will pull in the power band longer. is this true? and also, should i be using all of my gears in the 1/8 or just five? thanks for all the drag help brothers!

32:1 2r yamalube........

man i just had the same thing happen to my buds left piston....same deal....exhaust side piston skirt shattered......i'm rebuilding it now....i guess just too much stress for piston...i'm not sure....just bore it and get a new top end....we only had to go .020 over bore....i'm splitting the cases tonight to clean the crank because there is a bunch of metal down in the crank case.

double check all the following....fuel flow to carbs...choke tube is on( the one between the carbs)......make sure your timing is correct(if you didn't mess w/ your flywheel then don't worry bout it).....use new plugs......make sssuuurrreee your pilot jets are nnnooottt clogged(take them out and run a piece of wire through them and blow them out w/ compressed air, this will make you pull your hair out if they are clogged).....good luck brother!!!!!!!!

i had a buddy's banshee sieze up on him cuz the left piston skirt shattered. i was wondering if he mabye had problems because he liked to run 100 octane fuel. his timing was stock and i'm not sure what his compression was.he does have an aftermarket head. but what we are going with now is +4 timing, 100 octane fuel and 21cc domes. his compression should be around 160-165lbs. does this seem ok? also, what causes a piston skirt to shatter? just a defect or thing that happens from time to time? would dirt in the engine cause a piston skirt to shatter? i would think that it would just wear down the cylinder walls if dirt got in the engine. the only reason why i say this is cuz his filter fell off when we were trail riding that day it shattered. put in your two cents please. would over heating cause the piston to go?

cool..i'll do it. i think the reason why my midrange has a slight bog is because i'm running the v-force 3's w/ out the insert, i have ported cyl's and i'm running cpi's. w/ all that said, that equates to a slower midrange air velocity as opposed to a combo like rad valves, fatty's and stock cyl's. the midrange power doesn't hit until about a 1000-1500 more rpm's than it did when i had the fatty's. i have absolutely no bottom end snap like i used to. i really have to get into the revs now. kind of annoying in a way.

those cyl's almost look stock???? i wouldn't think any richer than a 310 if your at sea level. then work down if your too rich............

at sea level and it is about 75-80 degrees out. have yet to check the plug at wot cause i have no where around my n'hood to let it all hang out for 5 seconds or so. just little short bursts in 2nd and 3rd gear for a second or two, don't want to bring the cops. i live in a nice quiet n'hood. will check it out soon though. just thought someone would give me another example of their shee w/ cpi's. thanks!!!

hey thanks for lookin at my thread. just needed some help w/ my jetting before i go riding tommorrow. i have a 96 banshee ported w/ stock carbs and just put cpi's on my bike. i used to run a 290 main w/ my fatty's and now jumped to a 330 and lowered my needle clip one position for the cpi's but.......when i took it out for the first time and nailed it, the midrange bogged. the low end and top end were fine. so i went to a 320 main and it got slightly better. so i took the needle back to stock( 3rd clip position) and it still bogs. it is the best it has ever been but it still does it. do you think i should go another notch on the needle to lean it out or go smaller on the main to a 310. the reason why i have a hard time w/ this is because on cpi's website, they recommend 320's and lower your clip one position.........ON A STOCK BIKE. why am i not running at least that on a ported bike?????????? please put your 2 cents in......thanks brothers......