jbooker82

Semichrome

Throw the factory clutch cover in with the beer cans and recycle it. Then get a Direct Drive new cast cover.

I run klotz flex drive. There are lots of oils that work fine. If I am low on or out of flex drive i will just dump some atf type f in and ride. Low transmission oil isnt going to keep me from riding. Heck you could probably put vegtable oil in there from the grocrie store and it would keep the transmission from locking up. And there shouldnt be any friction moddifiers to cause the clutch to slip.

They probably made there worm holes, or boysen ports to larg or incorreclty and coving up a screw up.

I bet more than half of the 2 stroke oils out there are for both injector, and premix. Anything that is for snowmobiels, or PWC's is most likly an injector oil. You can run an injector oil as a premix but like I said they are diluted down, so the injector will work.

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the key does not just fall out or shear. You didnt have the nut tight enough. All the key is supose to do is locate the flywheel in the proper position on the crank. The taper and nut is what holds the flywheel on.

Klotz R50 is a 100% Synthetic oil. It burns super clean with little smoke. Klotz Supertechniplate is 80% Klotz Techniplate and 20% Klotz Benol caster oil. This oil is supose to be a hybred oil. It smokes more than R50 but burns cleaner than Benol. Klotz Benol is 100% caster oil. It is a dirty burning oil but it protects really well. Supertechniplate and Benol mix with methanol R50 does not. I just dont like running an injector oil because it is watered down so the injector pump will pump it at lower temps. Klotz's oils are thick like corn syrup.

I am just saying that you were probably running a race fuel that was more octane than you needed. It was on the safe side. When you switched to 100 ll you ran a lower octane fuel, still on the safe side, and it made more hp. Just like putting race fuel or av gas in a stock machine. You would loose hp due to running a high octane fuel in an engine that doesnt require it.

Yea no doubt any crank can and does break. I just though there was a hot rod and wiseco epidemic that I missed. I do know that hot rods 4 mill cranks need rewelded. There stock stroke cranks are not even welded so that is a no brainer there. I am not slamming any body selling the crank. They are just giving you options, wich is nice to have. My hot rods 4 mill origninated from crank works. It has a max load bearing on the stator side, and a tz bearing on the pto side, and has been rewelded.

That would suport the fact that an engine builds its maximum HP on the edge of detonation. Running race fuel in an engine that doesnt require it will cause a HP drop. Mix 3 parts of your blue av gas to 1 part pump 87 octane and I bet you would find a little more hp. Like anything you can only get so close to the line before you cross it. In this case if you cross it, it might cost you a set of pistons at the minimum.

Drain the tank and carbs then. Amsoil is petrolium, and klotz is not. They wont mix. I would say your down grading going from klotz to amsoil. If you want a full synthetic then run Klotz R50. I wont run a oil that is a premix / injector oil in my banshee. You already dilute the oil in gasoline. So when you run an injector oil as a pre mix your running an oil that is alread diluted down. Compair the oils. Amsoil Domintator http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/tdr.aspx Viscosity at 100 deg C = 7.7 cSt Flash and Fire Point = 198 deg F or 92 deg C Klotz R50 http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/tdr.aspx Viscosity at 100 deg C = 18.20 cSt (Typical) (Minimum 16.30 cSt, Maximum 21.90 cSt) Flash Point = 550 deg F. So amsoil has less than half the viscosity of R50 and it ignites at 198 deg. How much good does an oil do if it starts on fire at a lower temperature than the operating temperature of the parts it is supose to lubercate?

That is 5 cents cheaper than I get my Turbo Blue 110 race fuel for. And it is made for perfomance to run on the ground, not high altituess with thin air.

What kind of crank was this? Long rod, short rod, stock stroke, 4mill? I guess I havent watched the forums like a hawk but I have seen any body post up.

I havent heard of any body posting up problems with hot rod's cranks on here. I have been running a used one I bought from jeff at fast for 2 years now. It was in a cub before I bought it. I have had a hot rods 4mill stroker crank in my raptor for 5 years now.

Yea but they probably also would sell you a Hot Rods crank as well, if that is what you wanted.

Nice fire extinguisher on the back of that raptor.

You dont have to drian the tank. Just run it down low. Caster 927 and Supertechniplate are oils that have caster oil. They will mix with each other fine. If you switch from ether one to a petrolium or regular (oil that doesn't mix with methanol) the I would recomend drianing the tank and carbs.

Pluged pilot jet = lean. Torn intake boot = lean. Running it to lean for to long = blown engine.

Yea but you dont get first quality forgings at the bottom end price scale.

Yea you like the reply. What a D bag. The cylinders run so the must be good. I guess since exhaust blows out of the rear of the silencer the pipes must be good as well.

He joined Augest 4 2010. He has 31 posts all of wich have been in the forsale section. Sorry to tell you, but you didnt do buisness with a member. You just as well done the sale over craigs list from a foreign country.

Pro Wedge II's would be better but they are a little harder to find. 4 Snows are better than the ams zippers.

They are a 2 ply tire. They are kind of baloony. If you run them in snow you will be fine. There isnt a tire out here that works in deep snow because you get high centered. The tire is soft rubber so it will wear. The soft ruber wears better at low temps because the cold makes the rubber hard. So if you have a tire that is not made to be run in winter they get rock hard in the cold. So if run a winter tire in the summer it will wear a lot faster than it should. People who do dirt / clay drag racing run the 4 snows, and pro wedge 2's. If there is snow on the ground I wouldnt worry about it. Even if it is patchy.

I would say the wait will be worth it. His stuff is top notch. I would probably get an aluminum water pump drive gear as well. Much better than the plastic piece.