jbooker82
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Posts posted by jbooker82
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Have a big grill that blocks the radiator?
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Usually around +4 on pump gas for the timing. Have the cylinders ported for a pretty substantial gain.
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Yea a spark arrestor is required for National Forests. There are screen style spark arrestors that trap hot carbon down to a certain size and there are others that are screen less and designed to break carbon up in to small enough particles.
Screen style spark arrestors also collect packing and oil. It makes for a nice mess to clean, and when it plugs up it will cause performance to drop off. FMF Turbine Core 2's and Pro Circuits 296 silencers are both suppose to be screen free design.
DMC's 916 system uses closely spaced plates that are stacked on top of each other. This design wouldn't be to bad to clean because the plates are individual and not attached. It also has a large surface area so it wouldn't plug up as fast.
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How about a pair of billet clamp on rear fender brackets. The ones that are down calves. It would be nice for the full fender guys who have broken / missing brackets.
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Is a spark arrestor required at any place you plan on riding?
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Pro Circut's spark arrested silencers use a screen free design. That way there is no plugging up of the spark arrestor.
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I like the castor based oil better. Klotz and 927. But in this case I will try out the Amsoil and see how it goes.
Might look at Klotz R50. Its not caster based but its a thick non injector oil and along the lines of caster oil. It wont separate out. I prefer to run oils that are premix only. Injector oils are watered / diluted down with solvents to allow them to flow / be injected at lower temps.
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Any chance of getting a zip up hoodie like the black silver blue design. It be cool to do it on a heavy duity Carheart.
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Or just get PWKs and be done with it.
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I don't reuse gaskets. Once it's compressed next time it comes appart it goes in the trash.
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Got a Name and Address so we know who to avoid?
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I keep a super cooler in the parts box. It would come in handy if you had to splice a hose back together. As for cutting a good hose to put one in, I'd pass.
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Fyi Keinin doesn't make 30mm PWKs. 28s or 33s. What draws people to them is the shiny polish job. It's kind a like a fishing lure, only it catches suckers and dollars.
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Trail Sleeper with in frame drag pipes.
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Does it still smell like corn if it's distilled from switch grass or sugar cane?
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Suds come out when you bore a cylinder so removal shouldn't be an issue for a head install. The positive about the pro design setup is you can verify that the domes and orings are in the correct position as you install the shell, and before you button up the top cover. Heads that use a one piece shell and top cover do not allow you to see. The domes and head are installed all at once so you have to keep everything lined up and in place.
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All you have to do is take a the stock wiring harness and remove the black tape wrap. Then cut the Tors ground, and black white wires out. Make sure to leave the black white, and black wire for the run stop switch. I also separated part of the cdi wireing that way it kind of has its own mini harness that goes from the CDI to the stator.
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Anyone got a 1-4X they like? Fixing to pick up one of these, seems like a great do-it-all scope that can be used around 50-100 yds but also stretch out to 3, 4, 500 yds.
Vortex is coming out with a 1-6 strike eagle. I have the Razor HD 1-6 and it's an awesome optic.
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Copy and paste the text in the IMG window.
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Yea or order one of each then see wich one fits better.
The nice thing about foam is that it isnt stiff like a K&N so you can get away with some miss alignment.
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Thanks jbooker. What about 4" vs 6" filters? I run the 4" K&N's w/ outerwears currently and jetting is really good. If I ran a 6" foam filter, would I potentially need larger jets?
I wouldn't think so if your current filters are not restricting air flow. In really dirty environments the more filter area you can obtain the better. If you get longer foam you might need an angled filter base / flange. I couldn't tell you about that with stock carbs because I haven't ever ran them.
I use 10 deg K&N's but thats with 33mm PWK's and an angled one piece boss billet intake.
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If you haven't ordered them yet I would get the UP4182ST they come with the red coarse outer layer.
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I wouldn't waste your time running outerwears on a foam filter. The sticky filter oil will transfer to the outerwear and since the outerwear is a fine mesh screen all the dirt will collect on it and plug up. Foam filters are progressive filters. They start out coarse on the surface and get finer the deeper you get in to them. That way most of the dirt is trapped on the outer layer and it will still allow air to flow though and not plug up. A plugged up outerwear on the surface is just going to choke your banshee. Make sure to oil all layers of a foam filter. If you don't oil the outer most layer you might as well not even have it on there because dirt will go right through it.
Banshee will bump start but not kick start
in Banshee Repairs and Mods
Posted · Edited by jbooker82
6 sigma jet kits are junk for the 660 raptor. Id imagine they are the same for the banshee. Instead of providing different carb needles they give you wonky spacers to raise the needle more than what the needle clip positions allow. They also use knock off jets.
First Id get the carbs fixed so they don't leak fuel. Probably need the floats adjusted and possible needle and seats. Id also fix the choke. You can kick it a lot harder if you don't have to stay hunched over to keep the choke pulled out while trying to kick it over.