jbooker82
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Posts posted by jbooker82
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I'd bet a good chunk of the K&N horror stories about dirt passing through are based off the imitations.
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Ricky Stator has bad reviews????
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Did you miss the part where he never called the builder?
Or the part where they BOTH did leak downs in August with no leaks?
Or that it was a USED crank?
Or the smartass comment "Ordered a new crank from FAST, thanks Jeff!"
The entire post made it sound like the builder sent it out like that.
He purposefully left out important info because people would jump his ass.
Pretty fucking absurd if you ask me.
Cliff notes.
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If you cannot feel the difference why wouldn't you go with the one that is in theory easier on parts? It's not like your going to miss something that you can not feel.
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Problem with cold temps and alcohol is due to the fact that it doesn't evaporate very well. This is why E85 blend ratio of gasoline to alcohol is higher in the winter. It helps with cold starts. I would imagine running straight methanol would have the same issues at lower temps. So you use a petroleum product to help with cold temp starts.
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Unless they are counterfeit Mikuni jets. Hahaha
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The genuine mikuni jets have a square in the corner of a square. That's how you can tell if you get the real deal.
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Where you getting 800 for carbs alone? Fast has them for $175 each. 100 bucks for an intake, and another 100 for K&N pods with outerwears.
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Id pass due to seeing prior peoples issues. Seen a few posts where people were lead to believe they were getting a Hot Rods crank and ended up with the wang crank.
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I had UPP. Carb bowl hit the clutch arm.
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Nothing wrong with a billet intake. Just replace the boots with genuine Mikuni parts. I believe the 33-35mm part number is VM34-200
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Yep. After people quit discussing / visiting, ad revenue falls. When the site no longer makes money / supports its self it goes offline. Then you cannot even search the archives.
I'd hate to guess how many people have been chased away from this site. It is only as good as its members, and you can see what kind of shape it's in.
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Sometimes those cheap plates are covered in a gnarly thick silver paint / powder coat. It helps hide defects. Any chance that yours is and you weren't getting a good electrical ground?
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You should be good to go. It would be best to start over with different cylinders since yours are already ported for the stock stroke crank.
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Call FAST, tell him you want Hot Rods crank trued and welded. Done deal
Yep. Maybe consider a 4 mill since you have to replace the crank.
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Benol is 100% caster oil.
SuperTechniplate is 80% Techniplate synthetic oil, 20% Benol Caster oil.
R50 has the same smell but its 100% synthetic and has the load bearing capabilities of caster oil. Caster oil gets gummy when it dries out. Which is why I run R50.
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Turn the clamp so the screw isn't down in the bottom. That way your not trying to pinch the clamp when flexing the carb / air box down.
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I also used 1-3/8 to 1-1/2 rubber expansion plugs. They have a washer on each side and a bolt and nut. That way you tighten them down they expand to seal up the exhaust ports. Then I used regular rubber plugs for the intake. Install a 1/4" brass splicing barb in one rubber intake plug and your good to go.
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I just use a mity vac hand pump and some rubber plugs. My mity vac has a pressure / vacuum gauge on it. That way you can pressure test, and vacuum test, let alone all the other handy stuff you can do with a mity vac
I have the MV8500 kit.
http://www.mityvac.com/pages/products_hvpk.asp
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No need to be a tester / developer for a company that doesn't pay ya.
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Just make sure the shrader valve is in the very tip of the hose. If you use adaptors and on top of the shrader valve that extra volume of the adaptor is added volume to the combustion chamber. This is why I bought a snap on gauge. It has the valve in the end and uses individual hoses for the different sizes of sparkplugs.
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I'd probably buy oem Yamaha or Mikuni parts. Cheap Chinese carb rebuild kits suck.
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66-68mm big bore domes usually don't have the outer lip. I'd imagine they do this so the o ring can be pushed out slightly farther. That would help with o ring life due to it not being exposed to hot combustion gases.
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Just go bare for the rusty rat rod look. Matte black plastics, gloss red wheels.
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k&N vs K&N style knock offs pods
in Banshee Repairs and Mods
Posted
Technically they only carry a 1 year warranty on non highway use applications.