jbooker82

I just bolted my tm designe works one over the white plastic cover under the sprocket. If you get one get the tm one. It has a better design. It rests against the cases to help suport it at the top. Plus it goes around the counter shaft.

You can get a good boss racing, white knuckle or other brand intake to clear the clutch arm. Plus they have a built in crossover tube so it cleans up the area around the carbs.

You should look in to doing a 4 mill dune ported machine. The stroker crank helps add some torque. The port job, crank, and noss head with stroker domes would cost you about the same as what your cub cylinder was going to cost.

I am looking for a good 1997-2001 Banshee wiring harness. Let me know what you got and how much shipped. Thanks for your time josh

So you hook the yellow wire up to the blue wire on the banshee's wireing harness. (same wire as the stock one plugs in to.) Then the red one goes to chassis ground. Right? josh

I figured that there would be some. Since the stator is grounded.

The tire shop that the guy took them too should have broken the beed and slimed the beed up with that goop they use. Real thick purple stuff helps lube the beed and seal it as well. If you still cant get the bead to seal try some RTV Silicone.

How much are asking for just the cylinders?

Sorry about that. I just figured Supetechniplate was 20% Benol Caster oil, and 80% R50. Since you can mix supertechniplate with alachol I figured you would be good to go on R50. My bad.

:thumbsup: You will have to run a premix oil that will blend with Alachol. Most oils dont. Klotz Benol, Klotz Supertechniplate, Klotz R50, Maxim Caster 927 will.

This is the RS Voltage Regulator I got. It has a yellow and red wire coming out of it. How did you hook it up? Yellow to where the stock regulator hooks up and Red to Ground? Vise Versa? Is the think in the middle a bolt to bolt it up to where the stock one mouned to?

With the new stator on there the lights are bright again, They are not dim like it is shorting out. The yellow wire still gets hot. What should the resistance be from the yellow wire to Chassis? Is that going to be with the stator completly un hooked or should I leave the black wire hooked up to the wiring harness. Where does the regulator loose conection at. It is pluged in and I sanded down the powder coat so I can get a good ground to the frame where it bolts up. Does the wire come loose in the wiring harness some where? I guess I could check the restistance between the yellow wire on the banshees wiring harness to the blue wire on the VR. I really apprecte your guy's help. josh

4 35w trail tech lights. It just seems like if I dont find out why this wire is getting so hot it will smoke my stator again. I ran this same setup for 3 years with no problem. Just seems like the voltage regulator went out and cooked my old stator. Is the stock regulator capable of dealing with the 200w stator?

I was running a 200w Ricky Stator. The insulation on the bullet conector on the yellow wire got hot and melted. I thought that the Insulation could have rubbed off and the terminal shorted out causeing it to burn the rest of the insulation on the connection off. The lights were dim and wouldnt light up as bright as the use to. So I figued that the stator was smoked. I even un pluged the voltage regulator and could still only get 8 volts. I put on my new 200w Ricky Stator and the same voltage regulator. With the machine running I could only get about 10-11 volts. Even with it reved up. The lights are a lot brighter even though it isnt at 16.3 V like the manual says it should be. The yellow wire gets hot again. I dont want to smoke my new stator so I have ran it to see how hot it gets. It just gets warm pretty fast. I think the voltage regulator went out and smoked my old stator. I have had that stator in there for 3 years with no problems. What do you think?

I am wating on a 200w Ricky Stator to get here. :biggrin: It is supose to be here friday. My lighting coil is only puting out 8-10V but it still runs good.

I am not 100% sure but it goes somthing like this. Green Sticker = Riding all the time in California Red Sticker = Riding only certain times of the year in California Green Sticker Banshees are the older ones. Because they were up to date with polution laws at the time of there manufacture. Red Sticker Banshees are the newer ones. They were not up to date with polution laws at the time of there manufacture. It is all crap based on technicalitys. A 1987 banshee has the same emissions as a 2006. Nothing really changed. Just the laws when the maches were made. I am not for sure where the Red sticker and Green sticker line is though. josh

Just get the cascade adjuster from jeff. I think you have it backwards. If you turn the philips screw counder clock wise your going to be screwing the screw out. That would move the arm twards the middle of the engine. If you turn it clock wise your going to be screwing the screw in witch would move the arm farther out on the LH side of the engine.

Those kind of have a big agressive pattern. Kind of like how some people get kenda knarly's and cut every other row of knobs off. Those are supose to hook up crazy too.

Yep all you do is pull the pressure plate off and swap out Part # 10 in the above pic. I would deffinatly get the cascade one. You want one with the flats on the out side so you dont have to tear it appart to make an adjustment. Here is a link to the cascade adjuster. Cascade Innovations Pancake LINK

Here read this thread. Has some pics so you can see what I am talking about. I hate Pancakes LINK

Yes it is a good mod. It will make your clutch pull smoother and it will keep the rod and ball from welding. It is not just a drag racing part.

You want to get one like cascades's. Theres has the flat spots on the end of the adjuster. That way you can hold the adjuster while adjusting the clutch. You dont have to tear it appart twice. Other adjusters have the flat on the back side of the adjuster so you cant keep the adjuster from spinning while your adjusting it. The one you posted a link does have the flat spots outwards the end of the adjuster. So it should be good to go.

The outer clutch basket holds the fibers. When the engine is idling in gear with the clutch pulled in the outer basket and fibers spin. They are driven by the engine. The inner clutch hub holds the flat steels. When the engine is Idleing in gear with the clutch pulled in the inner clutch hub is stopped. The clutch hub drives the transmission. The outer pressure plate is hooked to the inner clutch hub with the 6 bolts and 6 clutch springs. So when the inner hub is turning the outer pressur plate is turning as well. You can set all you want with your banshee running in gear with the clutch pulled in and it wont weld the ball and rod. This is because the only thing spinning is the Outer Clutch Basket and Fibers. You role down a hill with your engine Idling in gear with the clutch pulled in. Now the inner hub is spinning faster than the outer clutch basket. The pressure of the clutch springs pushing on the rod and ball and the spinning of the ball welds it to the rod. If you ride right you shouldnt need a pancake mod. Most people install them because of the Insurance Factor.

I would keep it in there. Even aftermarket keihins come with them.

I might try that too. Intead of drilling the hole I will just get a longer bolt for the fender bracket and put a 1/2 in spacer between the fender bracket and the frame. That shoudl do the same thing. :thumbsup: