jbooker82

wich is probably fzr1000 fibers.

Why would it come back. It has NOT left yet. Doest it have to be discontinued before it can be brought back?

Got a part number for those fibers? You just use all the same fibers right?

I noticed my banshee started easier after I installed the wires and coil.

why not just send the blown one in for a rebuild. That way it will be sprung and valved for his style of riding.

That is what I would say done it. You turnd the spark off but it was detonating so it kept running.

billit hands down.

Shearers come on later but they do pull harder on the top end. I went with CPI becaues the come on sooner. It isnt always about have the most HP, unless all you do is drag race.

Oh one more thing you need. The set of PWK 33's that you sold. :biggrin:

#1 Hot Rods 4mill Long Rod Crank #2 Wiseco 795 series pistons (have to have them becuase of the 5mm longer conecting rod) #3 A set of Noss Machine Stroker domes (the piston will travel down 2mm farther and 2 mm up out of the jug so you need a set of stroker domes. This allows you to run no spacer plate.) #4 Talk to your builder and see what he says about your current port work to see how it will run or if he can modd a few things to get it to work. Most of the time when you port your cylinders for stock stroke they cannot be ported for the 4mm stroker. The port durations are to large bcause the opean the ports down 2mm to the NEW Bottom Dead Center. And if they already raised them when it was stock stroke then the opeanings would be huge. Since you have an MX port you might be ok. But talk to Jim he ported your current cylinders right? josh

That is a nice guide. I am deffinatly adding it to my photobucket account.

You can start of with a set of matoon billit cases for $2500 bucks. Matoon Machine LINK

Direct Drive is the only way to go for the cover. The old way was to mill the stock cover and ethire weld on or epoxy on an extension ring. They have a tendency to leak if not done right. Direct Drive makes 100% bran new cast covers. So there is no weld or epoxy to fail. The cover is the expensive part, the actual lockup that bolts on top of the pressure plate is 100 bucks Direct Drive LINK Here is my direct drive cover and lockup.

Dont know anyting about fitting OOF pipes but you could go to the hardware store and buy a couple of rubber stopper and just use a bolt and a couple of fender washers.

If Snoop ditched the single setup that should tell you something.

No problem. I was just trying to show him a pic of the intakes lowered down 2mm for the 4mill crank. But like dajogejr said you cant tell how it is going to run by pic's

I would get a boss racing or white knuckle intake. They are thick and angled so they move the carbs up and back so the LH carb bowl doesnt hit on the clutch arm. They also have a built in crossover tube so there is no external one. I run a 10 deg angled K&N's. I tried 20's with this intake and they were angled too much for this intake.

Ricky stator sells one. Ricky Stator Voltage Regulator LINK It is just a universal one but if you tell them that your putting it on a banshee they will put the right bullit conector on the yellow wire so it will plug right in to the blue wire on the stock banshee wireing harness. Then you take the brown wire and ground it to the mounting bolt. You just get a longer metric bolt the same size as stock. The regulator has a hole in the middle just put the bolt through the hole and screw it in to one of the mounting holes for the stock regulator. There regulator is supose to work with stators up to 225 watts wich is plenty.

Here is what the intakes look like on my Drag Ported 4 mill cylinders. You can see the intakes have been lowered down. These are ported to run no spacer plate.

66mm is a 2mm over bore or .100 over so 68mm would be 4mm over or .200 over. If you run a stock stroke long rod crank or a 4 mill long rod crank you usually run wisco 795 series pistons for 64.00mm bore through 66.00mm bore. Once you start running over 66mm you usually run Yamaha Blaster pistons. Blaster pistons start out at 66mm and go through 68mm. You do have to run special domes made for blaster pistons if your running them in stock cylinders.

66mm is the final bore on stock cylinders unless they have been resleeved with big bore sleeves. A 4 mill stroker with a 66mm bore is 400cc's. That is what I am at. I am running a set of cylinders that have been RESLEEVED and Drag Ported by Dan Wade from Patriot Racing. First bore is 66mm last bore is 68mm (421cc's with a 4mill crank)

I believe it is how many CC's of fuel they flow in 1 minute.

Yea that is what I was thinking. People that think they need to run a PWK39mm because they think the 35mm is holding them back. In all reality if the 35mm is holding them back on the top end then they should switch to dual set up like PWK33's.

Maybe you got the wrong clip on the wrong side? With both circ clips off there is one that has a larger gap. The one with the large gap goes on the axle nut side.

You need to adjust the center screw on the pressure plate until the clutch arm is in line with the arrow on the case. Some people go a little farther and make it slightly to the LH side of the arrow if you were stiing on the bike. josh