rsheppick

obviously since starting fluid resolves ur issue and once the motor runs up it sort of runs. take the tank off and put some fresh 91 octane and 24:1 oil for just 1 tank.... While ur at it take off the fuel valve and clean off the filters. That is what I would do in your situation.

one side was leaner than the other.

or 2QT . I get sick of trying to figure out 1.6 so i put in 2QT, it wont hurt ANYTHING to do that.

yes do urself a favor contact Sibastion at elka directly. Contact him @ their main number. The shocks pictured are Dune Edition what I run on my 450R. They are nice but you really aren't saving a whole lot if any by getting them from there(ebay). I would recommend factory direct because of the setup that goes into the shocks

hell i would get a noss over a coolhead for the simple fact no stud changing.

You would know if it direct drive if it says that cnc'ed into the lockup itself and it will also say "Banshee" on it... I run a direct drive lockup and I paid around 425 by the time it was said and done. I have taken my clutch apart many timesin the last month and you cannot tell the clutch has even been used minus the fluid on it. I run the hard springs from the EBC DRK 8 disk clutch kit. I'm thinking of moving to stock springs to aid in shifting from 3-4th. That is when my bike has a hell of a time going into 4th cuz the lockup has put so much preasure at powerband i have to pull the clutch and wait a split second then shift not shift fast. You would want to say a pancake baring is pretty much required or your going to have lift when the adjuster welds to the ball... Also, Why you are at it replace the clutch cable :-) they are 23 dollars !

rebuilt= what Mine does it sometimes . my 450r does it all the time it is so damn annoying when it hits your leg....

I feel your problem is related to one or all of the above. the TP Sensor is possibly out of adjustment. Fuel Pump is defective... TP Sensor is defective the CKP Sensor is defective the IAP Sensor is defective Defective ECM Defective ECT Sensor or Defective IAT Sensor.... Did you also clean the fuel filter? I feel your issue is related to the FI... If you want to further troubleshoot this motor you need to obtain part # 09930-82720 from a dealer. This will be the only real way for the ECM to tell you what is really wrong.

That compression reading is fine. This motor is deisgned with a Starter Torque Limiter. ( The cam has an Automatic Decompression Assembly) This cannot be removed. FYI the Compression is or should be around 142PSI= Sea Level The recommended way to test the Compression for this motor is basicly the same as the shee. Install the comp gauge. Keep the throtthe fully open. Press the starter button and crank the motor for a few seconds. Approx 1000 kPA ( 10.0 kfg/cm2)... I own a bran spanking new kingquad with about 440 miles on it i love it can you tell me once the key is turned on is the FI light on, off or blinking? What are the symptoms of the bike, what happened prior to this issue. Also, was a Dynojet Commander installed at any time? Also this might be stupid. can you tell me if the display says "check" on it ?

This is in a way required if you dont want to have an issue later...

Stelership is usualy good for parts. nothing else. even sometimes they cannot do that correctly...

Okay, I have been reading through this long post. #1 I don't think the new owner knows for sure if the shee is overheating or not. #2 I also agree with passion on the head gasket #3 Get a damn Cylmers and do this crap yourself. #4 Nothing against the thread starter, but what in the hell does someone buy a banshee of all things if they have no nuts to repair it themselfs they seem to constantly have problems

lets see compression reading on both sides please.

or put a rag in. my friend and I used vice grips and broke a couple of studs where the springs go around Thats what happens when you are trying to hurry

You are correct this week my screw that goes into the case that holds the shift shaft broke in half

This oil I have ran 32:1 , 40:1 and 50:1. It does smell VERY VERY good. Also is very expensive. The only downfall to this oil like the previous poster said, it will seperate from the gass below 35F so you need to make sure you turn your gas control off and before in the case of cold weather shake the bike for a bit to mix her up. I perfer this oil.

No offence but your brother sounds like a dumbass.... Of course things loose reliability when you put parts on them that aren't factory. Thats what happens when you push it harder than intended. I would say your phrase of "blowing up" is insane. Only people that blow stuff up is people who don't know how to jet it and or shouldn't be touching the motor... If yours is the fastest banshee in town with those gay pipes. my lord..

Dont want anymore power since the pipes you bought respond very bad to porting. You should have had a set of T5's :-) Otherwise I forgot what stock was since I bought mine pre upgraded lol

Jeff @ Fastoys on here.

cubs

Yes, glad to see that someone agrees with me.

I run a 8 disk EBC DRK clutch it kicks major ass it is more costly than most other clutches and more for sure than jeffs setup. Good thing about the DRK though it has 1 extra fiber and 1 extra disc. not that I would notice with a lockout but still

now that is a real response!! Good info and opinion Rocketboy!