TOYBOX

The cylinders have superior sleeves, 68mm bore(blaster pistons can be used), drag ported and polished, powder coated head included, head was rechambered for the bore and setup for high octane pump gas. $500 I have a set of V-2, one petal has a nick at the front corner, $50

Your lean, I have two bikes with the graydon setup, hope this gets you close. 40 pilot, clip at the top of needle, 175 main, 1.5-2 out on air screw, idle srew cranked almost all the way in. I was running the boysenns, I used a 180 main , with the V3's I dropped one main to a 175. Also, trya 50:1 oil, I run Amsoil interceptor.

$35 color, $45 chrome, mounts$20 That is what I bought them for

The pipes from Graydon were either a low or mid to top, the mid to tops I've used on both the banshee and blasters, the pipes are all that. The pipes are hand formed, welded and cermamic coated they were not cheap.

You shouldn't have no problems if you have traction, I saw a 700 V modded go to the finals at a 300ft drag with ease, 600ft wasn't as close, but it was very quick. Post what happens.

Is the rod a 110 or 115, that will affect your entire setup?

Looks good!

Carrolltown, 25 miles in the center of Johnstown, Altoona, and Indiana

If you need parts, listing for the moto skis are rare, they were to the "upper level" skidoo's. The skidoo twin is the Blizzard 5500 MX, MX is the designation for the in chassis suspension. The 503 is a good motor most of the ultralight guys run them. Look for leaks at the carb flanges and dryrot, this is a common probelm on older sleds, also clen the carbs BEFORE you run it. If it has duels mark the carb for the side it came from, some of the Skidoos came stagger jetted(larger on on side) for cooling reasons. Any questions, feel free to ask. My rides 06 Dragon(slp kitted) , 01 Edge(slp kitted), just sold 81 SRX, SnoTwister, Invader, 74 Panther with cat cutter, and TX 340 73.

I'm still lost on the opposite thing?? I meant, you need more power to pull higher gearing, and alot of power to pull it well. Your bike is a great trail bike. Not everyone has the same opinions, example 2 into 1. To me what works is something that goes fast but is dependable. A bunch of us are riding this weekend, your welcome to go.

"Everyone"..thats funny, :thumbsup: the first post indicated the same thing I said about the lightened flywheel. I told you try it, if it works great. As for the oil, that is great for the alky crowd, amsoil doesn't have an oil for it. I run Klotz Flexdrive in my gear case, did not have luck with the ams! For the clutch, that was a joke, because the bike is not going to be able to pull that gearing, with the current mods!

Well, its time for the flip side! Ironic, I told him to go to the sight! To get opinons on how a lightened flywheel would hold up to sustained rpms, not a burst up a hill or done a 600 ft straight. I'll give you the specs, I'm running .40 over, mx port, Graydon single, 35 pwk, matched cases, V-3's, stock milled head, set up to trail and climb. I run lower compression to run higher rpms, the" ting " is from spot on jetting, Nick, well he needs to seal off the pipe leaks and get some clamps, it will sound better. I'm running amsoil, dominator. I have 3 R's, a Tecate, 2 banshees, and a Zilla, I love the 2 strokes! Nicks right on some stuff the rest , well... for there I ride, and the guys I ride with, some have enduro bikes, we run high mph and for long distances, thus no lightened flywheel on the trail bike, drag bike , YES. I hav e high gearing but still can launch hard in second on hard pack, if i ran a 13 and did that , well I'd have to buy a new grad bar! Because of the setup, it runs more like a RZ road bke than a quad, then I'm running I can be off band and still run high rpms. Nicks bike runs good for what it is, this is where it gets interesting!! He told me he was running, benoil, not techiplate, I told him I run amsoil and never had an oil problem, oil is your choice, I've been riding and wrenching for alot of years, I build sleds for guys who are going to travel to ride and the last thing you need is a engine failure 300 miles from home on your sled! One minute he wants to trail ride and next he wants a dragster. I have a 409 for drags, it is like anything else, the 409 isn't the fastest bke at the drags but I don't have the time to ride like I want to, and the bikes are getting serious at the drags, cubs, 17 mils, Kurtz motors, R1's, CBR's and so forth. One thing we both agree on , he got beat, but banshee riders are alone breed. I go to poker runs and get asked, why don't you get a 450? I hope is Banshee gets faster! The more the merry, I get tired of smoking 450's, its nice to ride with guys with fast bikes. Nick has a good head, I told him I had a temp guage on my hill bke and I tried different heads, some ran hotter than a milled stock. I also told him that a ported bike no matter who does it, with a stock stroke, isn't going to be the fastest thing at the drags. I told him be careful running high compression, high timing and low gearing, especially then you want to fly around on roads! As far as F.A.S.T., I've seen the posts argueing about alot of builders, which one is tops, I told him to read up as much as you can, but you have to know what you want first! We switched bikes, that was left out, my bike is jetted for my weight,230, Nick is 80lbs less, when we switched bikes in a grassy field me pulled me big time! My bike was spinning with him on it, his was hooked with me on it!! As for the time on the roll? I backed off more than once when he hit neutral, he starts in first, I got him on to the second gear start never heard of that. If my bike sounds like hell, wait until my buddy fires up his Kurtz, superior sleeve bike, I think with the drag pipes it sounds like its ready to blow!! I'm letting him borrow my 15 tooth front ,37 rear and lightened flywheel, I'll run his gearing and see what happens in 500ft, again! I think someone will be asking which clutch is the best, I just smoked mine! Thanks guys!

I have singles on both my bikes, I gained more mid to top than bottom on a fully ported motor, the cv stands for constant velocity, it works by not letting the single carb lose the forward signal wave of fuel when the reed cycles closed at TDC, instead the flow switches to the opposite cylinder, it never stops forward motion. The only flaw that can hinder this is an air leak, I found a single highlights those a lot faster than a set of duels. Hope this helps.

I run a single on both my bikes, I'm at sea level and have one for hillclimbs, one for drags. Your pilot is fine, the main is scary, way to high. I have a lot more work done to my bikes,(one is a 409) and I'm running 180-190 main, no airbox. When a bike is on a single and the main is that high, it sounds like it had an air leak. I have found, with the singles, it "highlights" a bad crank seal. Also, I put sealer on the intake gaskets, its a mess when you change reeds, but you won't be leaking ! Hope this helps.

There were races near me the other night and I had to decide which bike to take, 88 310R with all the goodies or slammed down Banshee all worked up. My buddy stopped that also has a built shee, normally it is a no brainer the shee, but the drag was 280FT, it was at a local fair which was hosted by a drag club 8 miles away, I found that if you leave the line on the shee to hard your done, but if you slip the clutch in second off the line then short shift into 3rd the shee will get the R, but NOT by much or it will tie. I ran the shee that night, beat R's, all types of 450's, other banshees, I drew a 400ex in the final rounds, first pass run him down tie, next pass he got me by 4inches! 400 punched and stroked to 518cc, race gas,solid rear, shaws on the front. I ran turf tamers on mine and it did better than my buddies with the radials on it, hope this helps, GOOD LUCK! One more thing I normally run the same gearing as you, I went with a 14 on the front and advanced my timing for 4 to 7 to take the edge off, also I bolted 250X shocks onto the front, not to much lift when shee hooks!

Please throw my name in, THANKS!

Dajogejr, I did the same, but it was my old hillclimb bike that sat a part for 7years, decided to get her going before winter hits this year! Electricals a pain, especially when you get into fuel injection, aka the new sleds!

Go to "view new posts" the the one above you titled I NEED HELP, it is in the "jetting" section, it sounds like a similar problem, hope this helps.

I spent last weekend troubleshooting my big bore on a similiar probelm and had a bare wire, I mean it was A SMALL bare spot on mine, after it was patched I jumped the old PWK from a 170 to a 195!!

If you still have TORS check all switches,i.e., throttle,parking brake, If they are ok, ckeck plug caps, mainly where the wire meets cap, might have to trim wire to get better contact, lastly check wires on stator, I've had to two buddies have the same problem as you and it was a bare sot in the wires running through the cases. I have found 90% of "carb" probelms are electrical!

Hemi head used, new 24cc domes, all orings, longer studs included $150

Hello, need fronts to finish off my other trail bike. email me at [email protected] THANKS!!