Geoff

I don't know.....I thought they were one of the ones you didn't so maybe I'm mistaken. I'm going to call a dealer tomorrow and hopefully they can tell me whether I need to ream them or get new ball joints for the uppers. If it aint one thing it's another.

I just bought some used LSR a-arms and the upper ball joints won't fit thru the spindle. The bottom of the hole just aint big enough. Anyone else had this problem and if so what did you do......drill it out or what. All i want to do is put them on this sucks...

It had a stocker that wasn't set up for the +6. I now have Ohlins shocks but I only have about 2 rides on them before I lost my topend. I still need to tinker with it. This is just a dune bike but I want to get as close to the best of both worlds as possible,lol. I like dragging but I don't have deep enough pockets for that and I don't have the time to always be wrenching. In the trees it does fairly well as it is, but once the sand dries out I get tore up on the starts. I figured weight is pretty important but I was curious what you guys did to deal with it, ie....less weight more paddles, more weight less paddles etc.. Thanks dajogejr for the response, by the way do you work?lol, you always seem to be responding to posts on here.

How much do you think weight plays in hooking up? I have a +6 with 22's on 9pdl extremes and when it gets fluffy I have a heck of a time hooking up(I'm about 150). I live in Oregon, just so you know......I'm thinking of running 11pdl regulars and see what happens, I talked to Cam @ Redline about this and he runs 12pdl on his wifes 350. Don't know if they just drag or what, but our hills just aren't as long as say Glamis.

I had 20-10-10 10pdl extremes when I bought my shee and it would just blow the tires off it. I really like doing tree shots and it would constantly jump the chain with that short of a tire on it. I went with the 22's cuz I wanted more ground clearance, better hook up, and I prefer the way they look.

check out Cascade Innovations, they have them and you can get them polished. They are the clamp style that you can tighten down...not the o-ring style ones.

Some guys at the local shop I go to just got there Hypers last nite when I was getting a part. Pretty sweet but $800 for the whole set. I thought that was nuts, never guessed they were that expensive. Sounds like your going to have a pretty sweet setup when your done. Isn't it funny how "there only a little more" turns into hundreds of dollars,lol. My buddies friend has a shee with a 4mil cheetah and Axis all the way around, pretty sweet setup but my pockets aint that deep

Which ones did you get? I got chromed rec ones with chromed tie rods. I only ride in the dunes so wasn't concerned about the skid on the bottom a-arm. $65 isn't bad, my buddy got a set of streamlines for $40 brand new last year on ebay so I was looking for something like that but it ain't looking good.

Yeah I figured since isn't it something like 15lbs of leverage for each additional inch? I think I remember you talking about how big the difference was when you switched yours over. Now I'll just have to get a linkage for the rear to lower it some. Just haven't searched for one yet. I know elka's is good but from what I've heard it will only work with Elka's.

anyone know about the ASR braided lines. Theres a set for $59.88, don't know of the quality thoughor if there all getting them from the same place. THanks so far guys

I got a pair of lonestar +2+1 a-arms coming and was wondering weres the cheapest place to get some braided brake lines and possibly some clamps. I saw Cascade has clamps at $9.95 a piece and the lines are $85, I'll buy from them if I have to even though there always a little higher but there customer service is awesome. I've heard of some people getting some really good deals but was curious were. I didn't see any on ebay so thats why I'm asking here. One more thing, I've got Ohlins shocks set up for +2+1's already but am running them on the stock arms currently and was wondering how noticeable if any the difference will be. Man I can't wait to get them, my christmas present to myself,lol Thanks Geoff

Why not do a 4mil in the stock cylinders with the appropriate porting, If I'm correct some guys are getting close to 80hp out of them. I've heard a few guys say that when they had 4mil w/stock cylinders it was the funnest bike they've had......not the fastest though Theres so much stuff out there it's easy to get lost in what you REALLY want/need, since it seems like everyone is building a 4mil cub these days. Good luck

I would say 10pdl for sure. In Oregon are hills aren't as long so whoever gets off the line the quickest usually wins.....lots of guys running 12pdl, in Cali they'd probably have 6-8 pdl on the same bike because of the long hills and paddle drag. I'd say get the 10

Yuh know this same thought crossed my mind last night. What do I got to lose. I think I'll give it a shot and see if thats it, I'll post when I get er figured out. Thanks again

well I fired it up again and it's just kinda poppy out that one side were as the other side is firing all the time. Kinda hard to explain hear on the computer. It just isn't right and there are no leaks externally. It feels like there's moisture out that left side still & I don't know what would cause it to keep getting water in that cylinder. Is there a crank seal that might join up with the water pump or thereabouts that could've been damaged by debris when I lost the piston? Thanks guys

It was welded up and decked by Redline Racing.......not shady tree mechanic style,lol.

No leak down tester. I pulled the head off and I had sprung a leak and was getting water in the cylinders. Put all new O-rings in and put the head back on. Runs better but the left side pipe will still get noticably warmer to the touch than the right. When I first put the head on no problems, what could possibly be causing it to keep leaking like this. So much for riding tomorrow, i guess. Thanks

come on guys, I know I only posted this about an hour ago but I need to get it running so I can hit the dunes tomorrow. I switched plug wires and still the same deal.

Just put a new top end in since I blew a hole in my piston. As far as we could tell previously someone had nicked the base of the cylinder and filled it with sealer and it blew out the sealer and went lean. Well I fired up the bike now and my left cylinder seems great, the right one(the one that went bad) seems like it's missing.....the plug is wet were as the other cylinder is dry. If I hold the throttle steady above idle the left side is nice and steady, the right one seems poppy firing sporadically....more like a 4-stroke. You guys got any ideas? I was planning on going riding tomorrow but maybe not now. thanks Geoff

I don't know how it is for you in Idaho but around here in Oregon a bike with nothing done to it is 3-4g's alot of times. "I'm really kicking around the idea of getting another YFZ and the only way to make that happen right now is to sell the banshee" Yeah I'll probably get a YFZ in a few years but I'll try to hang on to the shee, it's just to much fun to ride.....no other bike like it, IMOP. Good luck

I'll give yuh a free bump since your out here in the northwest like myself. Wish my bike was that nice but i haven't even had it a year,lol. Whats yuh gettin' instead? Good luck

I would try to leave in 2nd if you can, I think it would help out. I have a +6 with kinda a port job, +4, lightened fly and if I nail it in 2nd I'll just leave burnout marks for 8-10 ft. My bro-in-law has a 660 with a stg1 cam some port work and +4 and no matter who's on the bike I'll still beat them. My buddy has a 720 that I beat with the mentioned 660 but I'm a little lighter and he's kinda passive. You'll need a good start though cuz from what I've seen i'll get pull a lead for the first few gear but after awhile I'll just maintain it and stop pulling on them. good luck man

Yeah when I first bought my shee it had 20's on it and was jumping the chain like crazy thats why I went to the 22's. I was wondering if I would sacrifice that much with the Padla's in a 21-11-8, right now I think my 22's are a 71 or 72 rollout. FASTOYS thanks for chiming in since your a dealer you can definately give me some good info. Thanks

I forgot to ask if Padla's are very durable? I like doing tree shots since here in Oregon we have lots of trees. Everyone said that my ultralights would go flat all the time but I've never had a problem. They also said that you have to watch out for stick cuz they puncture easily, but once again never a problem. thanks guys

Thanks for the comparison...I wouldn't of thought you'd have a problem hooking up in the wet stuff. So it's safe to say that your 11pdl extreme super lights are equal to the 9pdl comp padla's? Are the ultralight close to the same weight as the comp padla's? I may buy a new set of tires before next summer thats why I'm pestering you guys with so many ?'s about the padla's. I already have 9pdl extreme ultralights and they work good EXCEPT in the really dry stuff, tons of wheel spin. Thanks again