jesse1004

rr

i dont have any stockers laying around to check. ill see if Todd (damfast) might have some i could look at. If you can get it out I may need it. Ill let cha know, thanks

I have a 39mm keihin pwk and my fuel inlet got smashed and I need a new one. Its the part that the fuel line clamps to. it just pulls out with some pliers. If you have a junk carb laying around I will take if off your hands. let me know what u got. will pay good for it

just found this post and I just did basically the same thing as what bancheez was going to do. I have a trinity 2 to 1 with a 39mm pwk. I got everything dialed end and it ran hard clear though except for out of the hole. I had a pretty good bog off the start. I messed with my jetting and found out it wasnt that so I decided to drop 40 bucks on jeffs dividers. I know alot of guys on here are against these things but for this particular setup it worked wonders. I have so much more "snap" off the start its like a whole new carb. Now before everyone starts posting"YOU HAD TOO BIG OF CARB" I got a hell of a deal on the whole setup so I was determined to make it work. So in my opinion I think anyone who has 35mm carb(s) or bigger they would probably feel a noticable difference with the dividers. imo

i would think since there are no jumps u should be ok but I think I would get some billet ones that are all one piece. I actually have used the billet front and back wheel spacers on my 400ex since '03 and have never had any issues. And the ex has been on alot of mx tracks.

I have the exact same plastics but with a little more fender on the backs. Its six bolts to mount the fronts. 2 in front 2 in middle and 2 by tank. fenders look good with that green. it reminds me of GRAVE DIGGER!!!!!!!!!!! jk

I think anyone will tell ya your better off getting a cool head or something similar. Then you have jthe option to switch out the domes for different compression. Not to mention it looks way cooler :beer:

id say go with a 33, possibly a 35. either one should work with porting as long as it wasnt a drag port but even then it still may. snopczyski is the single carb guy, he'll point u in the right direction.

id say yes. my 250r ran really hot switched to engine ice and runs noticably cooler

im always one step behind. ::

Im definately no pro but it sounds like your clutch is just worn out. Is there much left on your plates? Ive use 4 or five different types of oils and there was a little difference but not enough to make my clutch noticeably slip.

Is that -4 on the timing plate? And also what are the switch positions for curve 3? lost my book.

Thats funny. I actually sold a 85 monte carlo ss for 4500 and bought a shee for 1800. I figured I would have enough left over to build a nice banshee($2700). Well im done a year or more later and I ended up being off by about $5000 give or take a grand. Im sure many can relate.

This is on a 250r with a hinson basket but looks identical to the banshee clutch. When I shift from 1st to 2nd i keep hitting nuetral. I just replaced the clutch and it didnt do it until I replaced it. Is there an adjustment somewhere other than the lever and bottome of the cable?

Ill try a smaller jets and a different needle. how you do against 450's. last time I went out I was having a hell of a time. but i was cutting out too.

I was just reading some old post and got to pondering somthing. I have a stator plate set +4 timing and a dyna programable set at the first setting which is for low end. do i have this close to where it should be. I have a low to mid FAST port, single carb, fattys, trued and welded crank, cool head, 20cc domes.

needle- r1370g 1st clip main- 215 pilot-58 air screw- 1/4 turn out its a pwk I have no idea how to adjust float level and I believe the air screw is the little brass flat headed screw? there is also a big screw with a large plastic grip to turn. Carbs are not my strongpoint.

not sure about jet or needle size. Jeff at FAST gave me a good starting point then I took it over to a shop with a dyno and he fine tuned it for me. Ive read a post on here about how some needles reallly kill your midrange. What needle would you suggest and where do I even get just the needle?

I have a 39mm keihin single carb with the pod and a trinity intake. My motor mods are a FAST low to mid port, bored around .60, lightened flywheel, advanced timing +4, dyna ignition, crank trued and welded, fattys, and coolhead with i believe 20cc domes. I was wondering if you guys think it is possible to run the carb out of fuel. When im just tearing around on the trails and half ass tearing it up everything runs fine. But when I like up to race and really open it up it cuts starts to cut out like its starved for fuel. I do still have the stock petcock on it. Do you think that needs to be changed? and also do you think maybe its a needle issue? jetting seems to be pretty damn close, so its throwing me for a loop. any help would be appreciated. thanks in advance

I have a 39mm keihin single carb with the pod and a trinity intake. My motor mods are a FAST low to mid port, bored around .60, lightened flywheel, advanced timing +4, dyna ignition, crank trued and welded, fattys, and coolhead with i believe 20cc domes. I was wondering if you guys think it is possible to run the carb out of fuel. When im just tearing around on the trails and half ass tearing it up everything runs fine. But when I like up to race and really open it up it cuts starts to cut out like its starved for fuel. I do still have the stock petcock on it. Do you think that needs to be changed? and also do you think maybe its a needle issue? jetting seems to be pretty damn close, so its throwing me for a loop. any help would be appreciated. thanks in advance

i run one and happened to have access to a dyno when we put it on. It added about 3.5 horse on the lowend setting. seems to start alot easier now. would i drop another 200 on one.........probably not. nice banshee btw.

I have a trinity stage 4 single carb setup with a keihin 39mm carb, with the pod filter and outwear, ill also throw in the steelbraided cable. Everything is pretty much new except for the carb but it still looks and works like new. I need a dual setup with 34's or bigger and pods would be nice.

350 shipped! or trade for a 2 carb setup. 34's or bigger

internet is up and running again, but still call if you want. Cable, intake, outerwear, and filter have about 45 mins of time on them. The carb has a little more time but still looks new.