Snopczynski

No one out of the 30+ people in our group got sound tested last weekend.

Like I said, I ran the setup, and I have tried everything I ran on the dyno on the bike riding it as well. Not worth it. Something as simple as jetting cause cause a slow bike to run a lot better than a supposed "fast bike". So I wouldn't base real world comparison tests against other bikes unless you know they are tuned correctly. An example is this. I ride with a guy that I warned not to buy a stage IV trinity 350 bike. He bought it and brought it to the dunes. He literally has receipts from the guy he bought it from for $4500 in motor work and parts from trinity. I have around $2,000 into motor work and parts. He has ridiculous shit like 38mm pwk carbs on it, and those god damn stage IV pipes. He races me and beats my by 1/2 bike length in a drag race. He can't take in the holes I go in cause his setup is all wrong. After looking at his receipts I figure out it has a 4 mill long rod crank in it too. He feels real dumb after I almost beat it and brings it to me to tune. I change some stuff with the timing, gearing, tires, and work on a few other small problems it has. Next time out he beats my bike by 3 bike lengths. So moral of thew story is, anyone can put go fast parts on and spend a bunch of money. Once they learn how to tune the bike, then it becomes fast. When we test parts and setups we ride the bike in the holes, drag race it against another bike we have thats always tuned well, and we even go as far as running the stop watch on it or test it with the radar gun. If I dont recommend something that I once stood behind, then its because I have thoroughly tested it and dont believe it warrants enough gain per the cost or performance it provides. In the case of the single carb setup with what your running for other parts, I definitely would recommend a set of mid sized duals. You are killing your top end with the single intake, and your carb is too big to provide the low rpm gains they are only known for providing. Besides, pwk's on single intakes are old news. Lectrons are the way to run them. They provide about 15% more low end power than a keihin or mikuni flatslide on the bottom end. They run about the same everywhere else. My bike hauls way more as with the twins on it, and it pulls hard on acceleration. I like it way more now than when I had the single carb. Maybe your bike runs good, but it probably doesn't run as good as it could if you matched up your parts and setup better.

No it doesn't, all the carb models listed on that are vm's and ym's. not tm's. Sredish, although I admire your optimism on how well you think your single carb performs, I have put in the time already, and its just simply not the way to go on a dune bike, period. Especially with the pipes he is running. I also saw what you listed in your setup, and I am pretty sure your sacrificing power with running that big single with all the other parts you have bolted on. Only gains to be had with the proper sized single are a very small amount of power at the very beginning of the power range. You put an oversized carb on like that 38mm with stock cylinders, top end pipes, top end reeds, your holding back your power potential on the top still, and your hurting that low-mid gain you would intially be looking for with running the single setup because of the intake velocity your now achieving. I am one of the god fathers of that single carb setup, I ran one for a few years, I dyno tested different setups with it.I am telling you and all the other guys on here, it does not make sense to run it, its not worth it, steer clear of it. It is just simply a mediocre part thats a waste of money.

Mikuni Tm's only take hex jets. You cant interchange them, you have to use the jets for the correlating carb.

The H2 is a tripple 750cc 2-stroke. The H1 is the 500cc two stroke.

Depending on the year, you may have something with the lights crossed up with the park brake wire. The park brake wire limits the throttle to like 3,000 rpm when its activated.

1.8qts on an oil change.

Does it still have stock head bolts on it? Is it a stock type gasket? Why are you torquing it down?

I put one in an 86' Quadracer chassis. It wasn't that fun. We turned the cylinders around though and made a 3 into 1 exhaust.

Which fmf pipes are they? What type of riding do you do?

I run it on 110 with curve 3 at +4 and 185 psi compression. http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?...t=0&start=0

What tire psi are you currently running in them?

The dyna has a completely custom timing curve in the first 3 switch positions. You can still add timing on top of those positions.

You didn't say anything about Port work? I would buy the carbs you were already asking about and stick with the 28mm size.

neither. Google Search "ILR PERFORMANCE" Google Search "Patriot Racing"

Its the same specs for cpi pipes as a starting point. You may end up going up one size on the main is about it. Dan Wade from Patriot Racing and Dave Roberts from ILR performance are in Bonney Lake. Either one will be able to cut new domes, Dan wil have cust stroker domes in stock. Dave will have uncut domes in stock usually.

Ok, he gave you jet specs for a set of keihin carbs. They dont make cel needles for Mikuni TM 28's. This is the main problem with some of the info on here. People sometimes dont pay attention and provide the wrong info. Others dont want to look for it. Here is the search I did using "Mikuni Main" as the search words. Mikuni Main search Here is the thread listed 9th one down from the top. Thread link This thread was still on the 1st page in the jetting section. If you looked, you should have found it.

yes

If you use the search, the exact info you want is on here.

I watched a guy get a spark arrestor ticket at beverly 6 years ago.

I also used to Run a JD Racing Ported 350 with FMF Gold Series Pipes on bored stock carbs at 390-400 main jets in them.

Dont know what to tell ya. We have 3 bikes running those carbs, all are jetted about the same, and all have been ran on the dyno too. They are setup where they make the most hp, and then fine tuned for the best pull out on the sand.

There is already pictures of them in this thread at night. Its not easy for me to go out and do that, so if you dont like the pics in the thread, then you'll have to wait. The vision website tells you and shows you the beam patterns. http://www.visionxoffroad.com/led/s1100/

It was probably not jetted right. If the carb is too big, it just wont pull as hard and make as much power.

The setup I listed is what I run with my mods, which are pretty close to his mods.