Snopczynski

With vforce 1 reeds, a dune port, and T5's, your not matching it up correctly by putting a single on it. The single makes it accelerate faster, but cripple your topend. If there is nothing wrong with your pwk 35's, there ought to be info on here to get the jetting about spot on. However, those are too big of carbs in my opinion for what you have.

That seems like an awfully lean pilot jet anywhere under 4,000k feet.

Cascade wont be able to dyno tune the needle on it. Their specs for needles are usually way off.

210 is shut down temp. After that you can occur motor damage.

I run twin Mikuni 28mm flat slides. If our mods are the same, the 38mm is too big.

Even the 3 programmed standard curves in the dyna make a difference over the stock one. Besides, you dont necessarily have to buy the program kit. There are guys like me or firehead that can make you some curves from a list of your mods that ought to work well.

Read this thread entirely.

People have the tendency to set the pilot jets in them way too big.

Whats the chart say? If your going to tune this carb, you have got to somewhat be able to at least read a needle chart so you know what changes will do what. The answer is right there on the chart.

Base is usually eek or eej needle, middle clip position, 195 main, 42-45 pilot at 1.0-1.5 turns out on the air screw.

Dyno results and synopsis of running the different pipes!

Hey guess what, if you want help, your gonna need to pull the needle out and tell me what it is. I don't know what comes in it from trinity. Even if I did, I would still want you to double check the needle size to make sure they give you the right one, or to make a decision on which direction to get it running right. So pull out the fucking needle and see what size it is. I wouldn't buy a part from them if every other part sales company on the planet was going to give me leproacy.

Well, be assured that what this guy said is wrong at the least. If you do a search there is all sorts of info on here, even some dyno results.

Loco, you got any Black XL shirts left. I just noticed we had shirts for the HQ.

Your better of just saving your time and jetting it by feel, then to keep pulling the plugs. Any variations in rpm or throttle opening can cause the plug to be hard to read. I usually only do wot plug checks after running the bike 5 seconds or more wot.

Airbox, pod filters? What octane fuel?

A banshee magnetic drain plug is $12.00

Im not sure how that injection system is setup, but it may have a throttle position sensor going bad, or an IAC (idle air control) motor going bad. Im not sure it has a maf sensor, it may be a map vacume setup. Other thing to check is for vacume leaks, cracked hoses, leaking intake gaskets, etc.....

The pwk does not come on the banshee, so there is no stock needle. What needle is in the carb?

Cascade sells them. You gotta glue them in.

Dynoport, and by myself.

Lets do this, what year is the bike it is being put on?

pilot and main are too rich. Your needle is too lean. What needle is in it?

This has not been true in the case of my best friends bike. It had B9ES plugs in it for a long time, no issues. Its the E-brake wiring. Just look at a wiring diagram for a stock bike and ground the wire.