Snopczynski

Duration is the height of the ports in your cylinder sleeves. My 32mm Lectrons were $432.00 for both when I bought them 5 years ago. Some guys just dont get, that you pick carbs based on porting, pipes, compression, etc...... Carbs dont determine where your power will be. Carbs are the last thing you pick, because they are based off everything else you did. Your not supposed to say, I am gonna run 35mm carbs cause I want to. Your supposed to say, I have 198 degree duration, drag pipes, 160 psi compression, 4 degrees advanced timing, the motor revs to 11,500 rpm on the dyno (or looks like that the rpm it will achieve), well I think we should probably run a set of 35mm carbs. For Example: Dune Port, Sheares SB inframes, Stock type cylinder. This setup doesn't mean, that if you buy a 35mm carb, your power will be mid-top. The porting and the pipes already determined where the power will be. The carbs need to be picked out, to allow the cylinder to be fed enough, but provide the maximum velocity it can achieve to properly feed the a/f charge as fast as it can. You may only need a 33mm carb because of the peak rpm your motor is going to be pulling. Anything over that potential 33mm mark, can actually make the bike slower. I dont run 28mm carbs because I ride my bike in tight trails or trees. I run 28mm carbs because the bike is built for low-mid power and doesn't rev much past 8,750 rpm.

What is a "CAP"? You didn't answer any of the question I asked in my last post. You still just told me it was a Honda R, you didn't specify if it was a 450R. I need answers before I can help you.

Im trying to understand your reasoning here. Everyone and their brother puts 35mm pwks on dune bikes. So if a Drag ported stock cylinder bike is running 32mm carbs, why would a bike with just a dune port on stock cylinders need 35mm carbs on it? I beat other drag bikes, as well as other peoples play bikes. So whats the reasoning if we dyno test a bike and it does better with 32mm carbs? Why do people who obtain less max rpm, have lower durations, and less peak rpm feel the need to run 35mm carbs? If 32mm's is not small, why does everyone and their brother run a 35mm pwk? Why do we have guys on here running 38mm pwk's on stock cylinder bikes? Why did my buddies trinity bike that he bought have a set of 38mm pwk's on it when he has a stock cylinder stage IV port job, with Stage IV pipes?

Is this a Honda 450R? Did it come with a factory dc reg/rec, or is it an AC regulator on the bike? Are you good with electrical? If we walk you through checking this thing out, and ask you questions, are you going to know what we are talking about?

Well I did that with my bike, and I have been running it in a custom mount I built for 2 years with zero problems.

I used to run 32mm lectrons on a stock cylinder drag ported bike I had. It would hand a lot of "Open Dune Bikes" their ass with those so called "TOO SMALL CARBS" on it. We still have drag strips in Oregon.

Im not sure it would be different numbers, thats why I am not too impressed. I think the back down to near sea level elevation would up the hp. However, the correction factor program between the Dynojet and the crank dyno would knock it back down to a real hp reading. So I think that motor would dyno at about the same hp on a crank dyno at sea level, as it did on a dynojet at 5,000 ft.

Where are your durations set, what kind of rpm did the thing pull on the dyno? You can also tell by looking at the end of the dyno curve usually.

Yeah, its pretty nuts when you see some of these guys with 35mm pwk's on dune bikes that are ported pulling like 9,900 peak rpm. Way Overkill!

You baseline the rear wheel dyno with your starting axle, then you put the new axle on and test it again. Your usually better off using the time scale on the run to see the difference, rather than actually measuring the power. Crank dyno's have a more accurate testing method because they measure hp off the crank. Rear wheel dynos have correction factor formulas that they use. The Rear wheel Dyno has other variables you have to take into account: internal transmission ratios, swingarm length, tire size, gearing, chain length, chain weight, the clutch, even rolling resistance of your bearing carrier can make a difference in the measurement at the rear wheels. You can't correlate rear wheel numbers to crank numbers because of the hypothesized correction factors they use. A few years ago, Dynojet was forced by court order to disclaim that their correction ratios can be inaccurate from within 15% of what the actual displacement power may be. A rear wheel dyno is meant to be used as a parts swapping tool to measure power difference, not a baseline actual measurement of power output.

A rear wheel dyno is good for measuring the difference in power when swapping out parts. Its not a good tuning tool because they don't have an engine brake. It's not very accurate when your trying to set needles, and basically anything other than main jets in a carb. Its not even good for measuring hp to compare to a crank dyno. They are not accurate dynos because of the correction factor formulas they use and all the inconsistencies of the drivetrain.

why dont you just buy a small battery? You dont have to use on off of a quad. It doesn't even have to be rated to start the bike, it just has to run the lights.

You have to run a battery or a capacitor as well.

This! Rear wheel dynos aren't that accurate. I have seen 74.75 hp on a crank dyno from a low-mid ported stock cylinder 4mill/long rod with a set of pro circuit pipes, 180 psi compression, dyna cdi, carbon tech mid reed petals on stock cages, nology coil, wiseco pistons, and dual 28mm mikuni flat slide carbs. It also made that peak hp with a peak of 8,750 rpm on a dynomite crank dyno at a 700 ft elevation.

I don't feel the same way if its a real wheel dyno.

Was this a rear wheel dyno?

I have "0" problems with my bike. The only time I work on it, is if I want to try something new. If you know what your doing, and you maintain it, it will never give you any problems.

I have ran stock carbs bored to 28mm with 420's in them before on other bikes.

The Gnarley is fmf's current low-mid pipe. Their old low-mid pipe had the same lower header design as the Fatty's. The gold series pipe had a gradual curve with no squared off or angled turns in the headpipe curve. The gold series was a mid-top pipe with power characteristics similar to the T5's.

The gold series pipes are like T5's, not really a low-mid pipe.

tm

You can wire the regulator/rectifier half wave dc to just charge a battery. The stator doesn't have to be floated for that, but its roughly only half the watage output. YOU HAVE TO RUN A BATTERY OR CAPACITOR WIRED DC TO RUN HIDS ON A 2-STROKE!

I wrote an email, then copied and pasted it to: Ranger district, state representatives, the senator, the govenor, and president Obama. I think other important people to email are the mayors of the coastal towns near the dune areas.

The application and design differences are listed on this page. TM and TMX Any carb is easy to tune if you understand how it works. I personally run the TM 28mm's on my bike. There is full jet and setup info on the forum for the TM 28mm's that I posted on here several times if you need to know things like the slide cutouts etc.... Just search for it.

Here is my bike compared to a stock raptor 700.