Snopczynski

you can only tune a bike on a rear wheel dyno for the top end (main jet). You can't tune it for needle, pilot, or air screw settings. There is no engine break to load the motor anywhere but the top end. So if you having an issue with any part of the power range except for the top end, you have to ride it and tune it by feel.

That doesn't suprise me on a rear wheel dyno, because they are not accurate at all. The only way to go for accuracy is a crank dyno. Pasi, don't waste your time, it's because of the guys dyno setup and the innacuracy of his correction program. The same bike on the Crank Dyno would probably be around 15%-20% less Horsepower. You guys need to go into the Roostin Room if you just want to sit here and talk shit to people. Quit Fucking up Loco's forum.

WTF is this shit about? Go argue about your shitty fords somewhere else.

You need to re-jet the bike, it sounds like the shop had no clue what they were doing. The bike would have needed to be ridden to be jetted properly.

I ride the Oregon coast. I wont ride any of the sand in Eastern Washington, it all sucks ass.

I use a reg/rec out of a snowmobile, I get them from a company in Wisconsin. The light is a vision X setup that I get directly from Vision. A friend of mine owns Vision X.

The reason why you cant tune it on a dyno, is that a chassis setup has no engine brake. So the only possible and somewhat accurate tuning you can do is main jet changes.

Well I sell the light, it would cost you about $400.00 The Battery was around $55.00 The reg/rec was around $75.00 I did the dc conversion myself. I built the battery box, and wired everything myself. I built the mount for the light myself also.

stop tuning it on a chassis dyno and ride it. Thats the only way your gonna get it right. I have fixed quite a few here for the same reasons. The guy who posted the specs is about spot on. They do odd things if you mess with the airbox setup.

I really dont care if someone is a site sponsor or not. I stick up for what is right, and I do a ton of business with Cascade because they treat me right. There are some people on here (and I am not saying if it is members or sponsors)that I would not let touch my stuff, nor would I ever enter into a transaction with them. There are certainly some well known and good people on this site to use, but there also a lot of well known people that are not on the site to use that are just as good or better to use. Some people on here are the best of the best, but this isn't the only place to find a good motor builder, or chassis designer. I realize Kevin made you a set of stinger tubes for the regular price, but I would be really interested in seeing if he would have done it again for someone else. As I said, you do something custom once at the standard rate and lose your ass, your not apt to do it again and get burned a second time. Again, there was no clarification as to wether or not Kevin did it all the time or just once for you.

Tyler, You running 530 just for the added strength? Is there another advantage to it for your hill climbing?

Cascade currently uses a Jig for their stinger tubes, so to mass produce stinger tubes and sell them is not an issue. The Cut T3 pipes were never the same between any two models because they were hand cut and re-welded. So making a jig for the stinger tubes would be impossible. To correctly make stinger tubes for cut T3's, you would need to take the bike and pipes there, then have them bend up the stinger tubes by hand on the bike. I don't know what your experience is with the retail industry or custom work, but custom jobs go by an hourly rate. I made a set of cut T3 stinger tubes for csfx silencers here in my shop and charged the person an hourly rate to do it. As far as you thinking what they told you was ridiculous, it is not, it is how businesses operate. Its like AZCUSTOM said, you do it once for a set low/standard price, and figure out that you will never do it again at that price. It takes way too long to justify it. As for Chrome, no you cant just take a set of pipes down to a chrome shop anywhere and get a triple plate Oregon show chrome job. Most chrome shops cant afford the state licensing for the chemicals to do a triple plate job. So the chrome job you get is usally very low quality, dull, will rust, and/or eventually peel off. Cascade gets a deal on their chrome because of the bulk that they send to that shop, so I doubt your gonna walk into the same chrome shop and get chrome done for less if your Joe Blow off the streets.

For the bracket and the light? Or for the bracket, light, the reg/rec, DC conversion, added wiring, the battery, and the battery mount?

Thats odd, Chris told me about an hour ago that mike has been doing the port work for a little over 2 years now. Chris had also told me in the same conversation that he himself had been doing the crankwork himself since they quit using Louie all those years ago. Im not sure I feel the dishonesty lies with Cascade on this one.

I think before I went bad mouthing a shop on here, I would ask them directly to clarify what your accusing them of. So far you have acted on what sounds like 2nd hand (from the grapevine)information from someone else. I would make sure my facts are straight before I went and said something about them. I can tell you right now, you have already said some things that are false. Mike has been doing all their port work for a little over 2 years now, Chris does all the crank work in house as well, and has for some time. They haven't used Louie Swan for cranks in about 3 years. They also do all their boring in house. They are a full engine shop, not just an assembly shop. I have being doing business with them since 1993, and I am prety confident in their ability to do motor work, I trust the parts they sell, and their pricing is fair. They also carry everything for a banshee, and always have even the most odd ball motor parts in stock.

http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=120541&view=&hl=needle&fromsearch=1

Its all pretty cheap shit, you will probably get about 1 season out of it.

X2. They only may Draw 30watts, but to start up they use about 10-12 amps.

Do you guys realize that tyler probably wont put a shitty out of focus or retake picture on the homepage?

I dont know anyone over there that works on bikes. As far as the drive kit, you would need to post a link or more details about it.

It was only bad when I got to work.

One major thing needed, which carburetor is this for? There are jet specs on here if you use the search.

I mis-read your comment, I thought you had told him to get a boost bottle. I dont care about how you spell your name.

The guy is an idiot. I work 1 mile from his shop (house), and I live 12 miles from Enumclaw (in Bonney Lake). I personally recommend myself if you want something tuned, looked at, or worked on in the area. Two weeks ago I fixed a guys banshee who he had told needed a stator. The guy replaced the stator and still had the problem. He brough it to me, I looked at it and I told him it was a plug cap, and that fixed the issue. I have fixed two other banshees the guy looked at as well. Stay away from C&M. Zillafreak, where you serious with that boost bottle comment?

The LED lights are DC,and HID lights require a battery which is also DC.