Snopczynski

Your gonna have to take them apart and try it. I dont think anyone on here has ever tried that.

I think we need to know his tire size before recommending gearing.

Sounds like you already have your mind made up, so why did you ask us for help? Guarantee you this is not a coincidence. You have something else wrong thats causig theses issues. Like an intermittent ground connection or a cross short. I bet if you send that dyna cdi back and have it tested, they will send it right back to you and tell you it works ok. Either that, or you have a short thats blowing the capacitors in the cdi's, or shorting your ignition coil circuits in your stators.

you beat the factory stop back in place, then put a bracket on the back so it cant bend again.

I run 50/50 92 and 110 with 170 psi comp (19cc domes).

Put in all that info I asked ya. For one, it sounds like your gearing may be too tall (unless you run a 18"-20" paddle). Those pipes are definitely only top end also. What is the majority of the riding you like to do? I am a big advocate of the 2 into 1, but to presribe you one, I need to know the facts.

Thats what I was thinking. Cause, if you put on a new cdi and it allegedly goes bad after you just previously replaced one. Then how do you know you even fixed the problem with the new one you put on?

Were gonna need to know alot more about this bike to reply accurately to this. Need to know carbs, pipes, reeds, compression, tire type, tire size, amount of paddles, timing, gearing, swingarm length, and is the flywheel lightened?

Turn off the caps. Im not interested in the HP it made. You said it was a holeshot banshee, so the only thing I am interested in seeing is the run time, and the torque curve. So, what did Rossier do to this? I am familiar with them, they piped and ported my xp limited race boat back in 1998 when I raced watercraft. Whats the compression? PJ's are a shitty carb to run for this also. A pwk, tmx, or a lectron would be a better choice for good throttle response. I also read somewhere you had a boost bottle on it? Rip that fucker off, its a worthless piece of tin. I am a little suprised at some of the parts that they choose to put on this for the type of bike they wanted it to be.

Ok, delete all these damn topics and just use one. This is getting entirely too fucking confusing.

Ok, here is how we do it. We We use the plugs that have been in the bike and have color on them. Ride the bike around and get the engine warmed up. Then take off in about a 200 yard stretch and get it in 5th gear pineed for about 4 seconds. Kill the engine and pull in the clutch. Stop and pull the plug. If its lean, the porcelain will be really light brown/white. If its rich it will be dark brown/black with wet fuel on it. If its just right, it will be a cocoa brown color and pretty close to dry.

Those carbs seem to big for a low-mid power bike. Do you have the dyno sheet? Whats the compression in it? I would probably have run stock ported reed cages with carbon tech low-mid reeds. So, Rossier ported it?

Your gonna need to pound your steering stop back in place and weld a reinforcement bracket on it. Possibly even weld the side of it up if there is metal that has been mashed off from the steering stem stops.

The equivelant here would be $33.75 US for 18.918 liters (thats 5 US gallons).

Dude, I am not a rocket scientist, but I am pretty sure you have a problem somewhere else. You would have to have the worst electrical luck that I have ever heard of. I would start looking at the harness and what not.

What pilot jet is in it? How many turns out is the air screw?

The cable sounds like it is the wrong one, they dont usually stretch. If the clutch lever freeplay is correct, the trans has a good 2 stroke trans oil in it, and the clutch case lever arrow lines up just when the lever gets the freeplay out, then the clutch issue is normal.

I have been riding since 1993 on a banshee. I drag race at the hill every time I go to the dunes. I have never been propositioned to race for anything more than a pizza. So good luck trying to find these oodles of people lining up to race for money.

change the clip position again and see if it gets even better or worse. I also recommend using toomey needles with stock carbs.

e85 is basically a form of alcohol (85% ethanol). The only thing I would worry about is getting water in it during storage or transport of your cans in cold to hot transition temperatures. Once water is introduced it turns corrosive. All the gm trucks that I work on that run e85 have to have stainless steel fuel lines as a standard gm e85 mandate. So basically to run it, you cant have any magnesium, rubber or aluminum parts in the fuel system.

I would run 108 or higher straight mix.

You can extend the frame up. Look above his head in this pic, notice the taller height under the gas tank? See the 2 pipe hangers? Or click Here for the full size picture of it.

Yeah, the EEK is a good starting point. We have a 4mill with a 35mm pwk running that needle. I have the same carb on my ported bike with a 2 into 1 pipe and I am running an EEL needle right now. 185 main is a good start. Pilot will probably want to be around a 42 or so to start.

Ditto!

bend it back, reweld the truss webs and add a bracket to the inside also.