Snopczynski

let it soak in penetrating oil overnight, then heat it, try to tighten it a little bit, then try to loosen it.

I had my cousins stock carbs off friday night. He has a fully ported 350 and only runs a 290 main jet. 370 seems really high. What pipes are on this thing? Did it run ok with the exact same jetting before this rebuild? Are the carb slides in backwards? Is the choke crossover tube on?

The rhino had full exhaust, piston, cam, cdi, etc...... That was shot with the tony hawk camera. It is a little choppy cause I had to convert it from its original format to mpeg about 2 years ago.

You dont have to do a pulg chop to check mains. You can do like a 5th gear pinned full throttle run for about 3-4 seconds and get a good indicator of plug color where your at on the main. If the 185 is too lean, go up a bit. But adjust main then needle. I got my bike running best I could on Saturday. Ultimately I need to try an eej needle, but it flat out hauled and was pulling the front end up with a +6 everywhere I went.

No its not normal. Take the tape off the harness where the yellow wire from the stator goes into it ands see if you have a cut wire sitting there. It sounds like they just ran the yellow to the tail light and cut it out of the headlight switch circuit.

Oh jesus! If his port job is actually a drag port job then yes. If it is a dune port then he is fine. Try a 185 main jet, eek needle in middle or 2nd from top clip positon. 45 pilot jet with 2 turns out on the air screw. You may need a eej needle, but were your at now is way off from where I would start. Its also way off from what my bike is jetted like. Main jet and then needle are what need to be messed with first. If the bike runs better, move the needle in both directions to see if it gets worse or better. If you got a flat spot or a burble you cant get rid of, you need to change your needle to a different taper.

This one works good. Helmet cam I also had a tony hawk helmet cam, it worked pretty decent also. I shot this vid of my Rhino chasing a 6mm cheetah motor banshee with it.

It will make a difference for the better on your bike. Bigger cc and bigger stroke motors will benefit from reed spacers.

Half ass repair work, and my cousin just telling me to ride the bike, it runs good enough (When I am adjusting needles).

Yup, sure will.

you need to at least take a test light and check for voltage at the various points in the system With the headlight switch off , does the taillight come on? Does the taillight come on with the switch on?

What stroke is your bike, what pipes on it, Whats it ported like? What do you do with it (Sand, Trails, drag)????

Yeah, I have pulled out a stuck s10 blazer, and a stuck full size blazer with my Rhino 660.

Call rpm and ask them who makes the boot, then call him.

I ran the pro circuits yesterday, all I can say is holy shit! :biggrin:

ok, all the time people come om here and say like I need to call Dave moore, or K&T racing, or RPM Racing, How do I do it. Go to google, type in Dave Moore Racing and hit search. His phone number is on his website.

GM has owned Saab since 1990. Like I said, I am done, end of discussion.

Not to pee on this guys parade, but I have talked to the guy at RM stator before. He is a moron. He was falselystating upgrades for a listing on rhino cdi's on ebay a few years back. Most of the stuff he sold at the time was all of Ricky stators stuff.

Do you have the stuff to machine one?

Do you know what the boot is supposed to look like? Its gonna need some distance between the divider hump and the carb outlet to send the a/f charge in correctly.

Check with Dave Moore, he runs flywheel specials. I had mine done for $35!

His floats weren't level, so I adjusted that and then adjusted the center needle contact tab. It is pretty much flush with the rest of the arm at 21mm. I measured to the flat spot on top of the float, not the rounded part. Seems to run good. Cleaned all the gunk of his slides and the throtle returns real nice now.

I know my cousin already bent the needle contact arm trying to set it. I cant remember what the float looks like. If it is 2 floats, wouldn't it be more accurate to bend the contact arm? Rather than bending the float arms and trying to get them even?

id of the snout on the carb where it goes into the motor.