BKOLFO4

I installed the FAST modified shift shaft a few weeks ago. No more missed up-shifts!!! Great product - Thanks!

I ran them 10 hours on Saturday. Sand, mud, dry ground. . . . work pretty darn good for the $$$$. I was really impressed with them in the mud. Pulled right through some deep mud at slow speeds without any problems. Brian

Here they are. . .

So I could not help myself, and I bought these tires: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...em=160078014216 They are also at http://www.nebraskatire.com/atv/atv_home.htm $78 for a pair delivered to my door. They are cosmetic blemish tires. The set I received are fine, the defect is a misalignment. When they put the two halves together, they were misaligned by about 1/8" of an inch, so the paddles going across the center are offset 1/8". Got discount tire to mount them today (friend works there and did it for me free). Went riding tonight, and they ride great and have great traction. They are a true 6 ply tire, so they are a little heavier than the factory tires. Might not be for everyone, but they are cheap and heavy duty. Brian

Mine was acting similar to this, and the choke tube running between the carbs had come off of the right carb. Brian

Sorry to bring up an old thread, but I am curious how much play is acceptable between the basket and gear? I took my clutch apart to check for wear and to install better springs. With my new added horsepower, I could feel the clutch slipping slightly when I am moving at higher speeds where the tires do not spin, or when trying to ride a wheelie. My friction and metal plates look and measure like new. There is no wear on the basket, but I did notice that with a lot of force I can move the basket on the gear slightly as described here (the outer edge of the basket will move about the distance of one tooth on the gear; that is total from one direction to the other). The basket is still very tight on the gear. Is this acceptable, or something I should repair? Thanks! Brian

I bought a set of factory heel guards with the plastic pieces. Even included the hardware!! He sent me a tracking number within 30 minutes after I paid, and I even got them the next day. . . .A++++ Thanks! Brian

Not just diameter. Look at a cross section area that is the square of the radius. (2) 26mm carb = 2 * 13^2 * Pi = 1062mm^2 Now for single: 36mm carb = 18^2 * Pi = 1017mm^2 If the comparison was actually 52mm, you would get 26^2 * Pi = 2123mm^2 There is actually more to it than that due to the change in flow from friction against the carb body and other factors, but the point is that looking at double the diameter is way off for comparison. Brian

Thanks for the help. It took as much effort for your answer as it would have to just to ignore if you did not want to help or just verify which way mine should go. . . To repeat, I did search and read many responses. One response I found was your response to the guy with 2 bowls marked 1-2 and 1-2P. Now according to your response, the jet goes on the choke side. This was the only reason I had confusion. Otherwise I would have just swapped my bowls and put 1-1 on the choke side. Had I not found that response, every other response I found (which there are a bunch of them), says 1-1 goes on the choke side and never mentions the jet. So I have found (using the SEARCH FUNCTION) 1. 10+ responses that bowl 1-1 goes on the choke side 2. 1 response that the bowl with the jet goes on the choke side. Wth my bowl setup, these are not possible. Bowl 1-2 has the jet, bowl 1-1 does not. Let me explain a little better for you: If I put bowl 1-1 on the choke side, I contradict statement 2 above and the jet will not be on the choke side. If I put my bowl that has the jet on the choke side, I contradict statement 1 above and bowl 1-1 will not be on the choke side. I found a lot more responses that just say 1-1 goes on the choke side, than ones that mentioned anything about a jet in the bowl. Do I go with the majority, or go with your response? It would have been nice to just have someone verify which way was correct. Now, I have actually put it back together and went with the jet on the choke side, and bowl 1-1 on the right side, because it made the most sense to me. Thanks again, Brian

So I have searched and found two things: 1. Bowl 1-1 goes on the choke side (left). 2. The bowl with the jet in the hole goes on the choke side (left). My confusion. I took my carbs apart today to adjust the jetting. My 1-2 float is on the choke side, but it is also the bowl with the jet in the passage way, so I am not sure if they are swapped or not. So, bowl 1-2 with the jet on the choke side, or bowl 1-1 with no jet on the choke side? I would assume the jet needs to be on the choke side, since that carb has a tube running down into tthe passage way, but. . . Help! Thanks! Brian

Man I am loving mine too. He did a great job. He also bored my cylinders. Must have done a pretty good job on that as well. I have 22cc domes and I am getting 140 PSI compression since it has broke in. Brian

I have general contracted 3 houses for myself. A couple of things I have found: 1. In Texas, you can sub it out and not do any labor yourself and build a heck of a nice house for $60-65/ft. 2. Sometimes it is not worth doing the labor yourself. The contractor gets a nice discount on materials that he buys in bulk. Example: the house I live in now I built a year ago. I was going to insulate it myself because it is an easy job. I got a quote for a complete job (materials and labor) for the heck of it, and it was $60 more than me buying the materials! 3. Don't "save" money on the A/C unit and insulation. I have a 18 SER A/C unit, heavy insulation, and thermal foil roof decking. My house is 2988 sq ft, and my highest electric bill has been $221 in the heat of the summer. Last month it was $119. 4. Consider recirculating hot water. All hot water pipes in the house are in series with a return pipe. A small motor pumps the hot water very slowly though the main series pipe, so you have instant hot water. Very small increase in the utility bill, but worth it. I have my pump on a timer to shut off at night. Just some features that many people don;t think about that are nice. And you can't have too many electrical outlets!!! Brian

I got mine back and it is all back togther. It is AWESOME!!! He bored and ported mine. I ran five heat cycles, and now have 140 PSI compression with 22cc domes and it screams. Good all around performance. I highly recommend him. I do not know enough about other's port jobs to compare, but for the price, I know it will make a nice improvement in the overall power. . . Brian

What is "that"??? How did you fix it? I ran my last heat cycle last night for break in. Man is it a screamer. I had never ridden anything but a Banshee with pipes only on it. This thing is scary fast for me!!!! It now starts on the first kick every time. . . . Brian

send me your stock crossover tube, I will send you a boost bottle. . . .

Good luck to you!!! Man it was a killer for me trying to fix it. All I have thought about since Saturday. . . Brian

Mine is fixed. When I started to disassemble last night, I look down and the choke tube had come lose. put it back on, put the air cleaner back on, and it fired on the second kick. Went out this morning before work and it fired again on the second kick. I was using VERY VERY small amounts of starting fluid. I am talking 1/2 second burst from the can. The way I see it, starting fuild, carb cleaner, anything like that can not be good, since it has no lube in it. . . . Good luck. Check that choke tube and make sure there are no cracks or anything in it. Brian

MAN AM I EXCITED!!! Yes I was yelling. Went to take the carbs off and noticed the choke tube had come lose. Put it back on the right carb, and it fired up on the second kick!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Man I am right there with you. Been using starting fuild to start mine since I got it. Runs great once it is started and warmed up. Going to pull carbs off tonight for another cleaning and to move the needle position. I am thinking I have something going on with the floats, as while I am trying to start mine, there is gas dripping from the overflow tube. I have also removed plugs after a few kicks, and they look like they have been dipped in gas. . . If this does not fix it, I am going to buy the tools/hardware to do a leak down test. Brian

I am curious. . . Every topic I see against boost bottles (an I am not here to agrue if they work or not) always says they cause cracks in the intake boots due to the added weight. If that is the case, my real question would be, for those with the air box removed, do you somehow support the carbs and air cleaner(s)? I was thinking last night when I was working on my carbs that they, along with the air cleaner, are just hanging there being supported by intake boots. That has to be a heck of a lot more stress than the boost bottle. Should I have some type of bracket on the carbs or air cleaner since there is not airbox to help support everything? If so, anyone have a good description of how you support everything? Thanks! Brian

If that is the case, he has .076, wants .080. Should be able to hone .004, right? Needs to be honed for new piston and rings anyway. I thought he was talking the bore over stock, since at one point he references .080 and then (66mm). Brian

When you say clearance: Your cylinder is already bored to .080 over, so you bought .080 pistons. Are the pistons actually .076, or are you saying the cylinders need to be bored to .076 for those pistons? There has to be clearance between the cylinder wall and piston. Brian

Thanks for the reply!!! Man this site has been a life saver for getting this used machine back in top shape!!! Checked compression and it was 140 PSI on both cylinders. Once it is started, it seems to run fine, so what are the chances it has an air leak? I used all new gaskets and o-rings when I reassembled the top end. Even has new V-Force 3 reeds with new gaskets on both sides. I am pretty sure it is flooding. . .If I kick it a few times and then pull a plug, the plug tip is very wet like I dipped it in fuel. I will be pulling the carbs tonight to check the inlet seat and needle better and move the main jet needle down one clip. I have it one side toward rich, and the jetting FAQ says it should be one side toward lean for reeds. Anything is worth a shot at this point!!! If my hot rod truck sale goes through, I am going for a single carb setup!!! Brian

Another question. . . .Man I will be glad to just start riding! Have problems with cold start. Maybe it is: 1. Fresh rebuild, but I have heat cycled twice just at idle. I do not have a compression tester now, but will tomorrow to hopefully rule out compression. Is it hard to start until it is further broke in? 2. Gas comes out the overflow tubes/vent tubes. It is not constant, but there is always gas dripping from the tubes when I try to start it. They never drip while it is running, but they always drip a little right after I kill it. When it is just sitting (not running), it never drips. I cleaned the carbs, and the float level was 21mm (without the gasket). Maybe it will need new needles and seats if it sat for a long time with bad gas in it? I am 99% sure it is flooding, because the plus are always wet when I pull them out. V-Force reeds are brand new. I have a 6 position needle, so I moved it to the 4th position (on the rich side; toward the bottom). Is that right, or is it the 4th position on the lean side for the reeds? One VERY small burst of starting fuild in the air cleaner tube, and it fires right up and seems to run good. If compression is good, what elase should I look for other than fuel system? It is the bike in my signature. Thanks! Brian edit: I thought I had the jetting in my signature, but it is 380 main and 30 pilot. To keep it idling good for 10 minutes, I have the air screws set about 1 3/8 turns out. I am running Yamalube 2R @ 28:1. 250ft altitude, 80 degrees out. Brian

Impact tonight. I had the neighbor do it, as he rebuilds his Honda shifter cart motor continuously. . . I have standard key with a modified stock timing plate. Thanks guys! Brian