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BKOLFO4

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Everything posted by BKOLFO4

  1. Is there a way to figure out which domes are installed with my cool head without taking it apart? Is there an easy way to figure out which domes they are if I take it apart? If it has small domes, can you mix octane boost with the fuel, or is it better to buy race gas? Thanks! Brian
  2. Hi guys (and gals), I just got my first (used) banshee as I posted in the general discussions. It is a 2003 with the following parts: FMF Gold Series Fatty pipes with Toomey Silencers, Toomey 2 into 1 air cleaner setup, White boost bottle, and Pro Designs Cool Head. Other than that, it looks stock. Tonight was the first time I have actually taken it out and ridden it hard for a couple of minutes (after warming it up). I only went for two-three minutes so I could come back and check it over. Glad I did. It ran pretty good, but something is wrong. It was VERY hot! Before I ever rode the machine, I cleaned the carbs. While cleaning, I noted the jet sizing. I now know after reading the jetting FAQ tonight, it has factory jets in the carbs with all those mods!!! So my question: Should I even try to drain coolant and take apart the water pump, or should I work on the jetting before I start messing with the assumption that something is wrong with the cooling system? I am 250 elevation, temp is 60 degrees. With pipes and open aircleaner, should I start with 27.5 pilots and 320 mains? The jetting FAQ has an example that states almost the same setup and 30 pilots and 340 mains. Seems like most of what I am reading here is 27.5 pilots and 310-320 mains for a lot of users. I just put new plugs in, but I am guessing it is not really a good idea to even run the bike with the jetting as it is now. I would like to start closer to correct before I run it anymore and try to read plugs. Thanks! Brian Forgot to add: I am running Yamalube 2-R mixed at 32:1.
  3. Back to the top. . . I got the banshee finally. Had not been started in a while, so I drained the gas and cleaned the carbs and air filter. New spark plugs and fresh gas and it runs great. It is not as bad as the pictures made it look. I cleaned it up and it actually looks pretty good. I washed the stickers off and ordered a new graphics kit. Frame is nice and straight. One A-Arm is slightly bent, but it rides fine, so I will replace it when I have the money for new aftermarket A-Arms or if I run into a deal on someone's stock arms. Only thing I have to replace right now is the front chain slider, so I ordered the UPP front slider. All I know so far is it has FMF Gold Series Fatty pipes with Toomey Silencers, Toomey 2 into 1 air cleaner setup, White boost bottle, and Pro Designs Cool Head. Trying to decide if I want to pull down the top end and check it over. Starts on the first kick everytime and seems to run good, so I may take my chances and wait on a tear down. Heck, for under $3000 with shipping and the parts I have bought, I just wanted something to play around with so it will work. Brian
  4. Assuming no scams involved, I will soon be a proud banshee owner. Can't wait to see what kind of shape it is actually in. Here it is: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...item=4612633985 Just need to get it shipped. Anyone have suggestions? Shipping masters has an option for $450. Is there a company everyone likes around this forum? Looking forward to getting it. I'll spend a couple of days in my shop with it making sure everything is alright and cleaning it up. I'll post again when I get it!
  5. Bump. . . .
  6. Man there are so many scams in the ATV section of ebay. Don't buy outside of ebay, even if you are sent an email that looks like ebay, and make sure the auction qualifies for buyer protection!!! I even asked a question about one auction, and it popped up a non-ebay window and sent an email to a yahoo address!!!! Brian
  7. Where are you located?
  8. Hi guys and gals!!! My first post I am looking for a nice banshee. Somethign to play around on; I amnot really looking for one to drag with. I have two options: Something delivered to Dallas Texas in the $2000-2200 range, or I have the following truck I am trying to sell that could be worked out in a trade: 1988 Chevy Silverado 1/2 SWB truck. Maroon with a nice straight body. Motor: 1966 396 block + 0.030 GM forged crank (+0.010) and GM forged rods TRW Forged 10.5:1 pistons (actual compression 10.8:1 with the heads) Brodix Aluminum Oval port Heads with stage 1 port job (by Brodix) 2.25" intake valves/1.88" exhaust valves Harland/Sharp needle bearing rocker arms Crane pushrods CompCams Magnum Cam (296 duration, .560 lift - 4 degree advanced) All ARP studs (mains, heads, valve covers, carb, etc.) Accel distributor and 300+ digital box Taylor wires Autolite 3924 plugs Headman headers Dual 3" Catco hi-flow converters Dual 3" Dynomax bullet mufflers - exhaust drops in front of rear axle Griffin Aluminum radiator with dual 16" electric fans and aluminum shroud Holly "blue" electric fuel pump Holly 850 CFM with mechanical secondarys. Edelbrock Victor Jr. Intake port matched to the heads TCI aluminum flex plate Motor has a complete 1994 serpentine pully/belt setup with power steering and A/C compressor. Trans/converter: Performance Torque Converter - 10" 3500 RPM stall TCI Streetfighter TH400 BIG Trans cooler Shaft: Strange 1350 yolks (both ends) 3.5" steel shaft built/balanced by Inland Truck Parts Rear Axle: 9" Ford Nodular Iron Pinion bearing holder with oversized bearing 4.11 Summit gears 31 spline Detroit locker 31 spline Mosier street axles Complete rebuild kit Custom made torsion lift bars New brakes, including new drums and park brake fully functional Mickey Thompson 30x12.50x15 ET Streets on 10" wide Bart Wheels w/ locks I also have the American Racing wheels and tires that match the front tires/wheels. Additional components not installed: 1. +2 quart finned aluminum trans pan. 2. Complete Autometer gauge setup in a custom panel replacing the factory cluster. The cluster is built from the factory panel, but not installed 3. engine oil cooler. I just bought it and have not installed it. 4. I have a speedo cable, but it is not installed. The trans has the correct speedo gear for the tire size and gear ratio; it just needs the calbe installed. This is one heck of a fun little truck. The motor is VERY strong and very quick reving. I actually put the 300+ box on it for the rev limiter, becasue it willeasily turn 7000 RPM. Depending on your location, the truck is street legal. If you are interested, I can email pics. You can also PM your phone number and I can give you more details on the truck. Just for trade reference, I am asking $7000 for the truck. Thanks! Brian
  9. How far over was the last cylinder bore?
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