BKOLFO4

But do you use loctite when you reinstall? Do you re-torque with an impact? My flywheel nut backed off tonight while I was doing my second heat cycle of break in. Scared the crap out of me. Thought I had just lost my fresh rebuild. Lucky for me the nut did not come all the way off before the flywheel let loose. Nothing is broken, and it started right back up after I put it backk in place. . . Thanks! Brian

I think I understand from a statement above, but just to make sure: This is NOT your shee that RB Racing just ported is it?

Still looking. . . .

YGPM.

I need a crossover tube. I can pay cash, or I have a White Bros Aluminum Boost bottle up for trade. Thanks! Brian Owens

I had a 1987 KX250 that I had resleeved with cast iron sleeve. Never had a problem with overheating. Bike had aftermarket pipe, no other mods (I never even changed the jetting). Ran it 2 years almost daily without any problems before I sold it. . . Brian

I do not want to sound like an a$$, but make sure your guy measures correctly. I took my cylinders to the local Yamaha shop, and the guy measured them with calipers at the very top where they do not even wear much (you could see an obvious ring groove a few mm below the top of the cylinder). He said "Oh these are 63.94 - you can just go back with stock pistons". I just smiled and said "thanks". Brought them to work and had the QA lab here measure them correctly. . . . Brian

I just bought a wiseco kit with top end gaskets and wrist pin bearings for $160 including shipping from ebay. RB Racing is charging me $80 to bore both jugs (had him do it since I sent them for porting). Locally, they wanted $100 to bore. Brian

I'll give you my White Bros bottle if you will send me your factory crossover tube! Brian

I just bought my 2002 banshee. Had the exact same problem and it turned out the water pump was trash. First ride and half the coolant int he radiator boiled out. It is so easy to pull the water pump cover and check the condition of the pump. I would do it just to make sure. If it is bad, the aluminum pump, new bearing, seal, and gear was under $100. Brian

Me too.

My cylinder measured 64.156 at the worst point, but no one would touch it without going .020. Oh well, that is still 4-5 bore jobs (assuming no major problems), and you can resleeve after that. Brian

Not trying to be a smart a$$, but just in case you measured and need 64.5, 64.5 is .020 over stock, not .010. I would hate for you to order the wrong piston kit if you need 64.5. . . Brian

I just finished installing mine. My friend milled the factory plate and slot the holes (cost me $0!) so I could get 4 degree advanced. Now, if I ever get to ride it!!! Cylinders are at RB Racing getting bored and ported right now. . . Brian

Did you get it running yet? I am planning on sending my cylinders this week (just got my pistons) and I am real curious as to your results before I send them off. . . Thanks! Brian

Got most of the stress marks out wiht a heat gun. Frame is in great shape, no problem with getting anything apart!!!! Did you look at the new and improved picture? Thanks guys for making me feel better about my purchase. I liked it better when I had $2900 invested, but it is nice to know $3500 is still a decent deal. I will just be happy to RIDE IT!!! Had it for over a month and have ridden it maybe 5 minutes. Brian

Well, I am down to finishing the top end. If you have not followed in my other topics, here is the break down: Found out it is actually a 2002, not 2003 as owner stated. Needed a new chain slider. Bought a UPP. Water pump was trash. Went ahead and did a billet, new gear, bearing, and seal. Bel-Ray gear saver oil and Engine ice coolant. Head had 17cc domes. Bought used 22 cc domes in perfect condition along with a new o-ring kit. Jetted for high altitude. Will rejet once it is running. Plan is to start with 320 and 30. Pistons were going to need to be replaced soon, so went ahead and bought new .020 wiseco top end kit and wrist pin bearings. Sending the cylinders to RB Racing for bore and porting. Seems like all the bearings in the rear carrier are good, front bushing are good, etc. Not much else I see wrong with it. Looks like I will have $3500 total invested. Maybe I paid a little too much, but at least I now know what I have. Looks decent with a quick plastic polish and $15 worth of new graphics. My account will not remote link, but a picture is on this page: http://bkolfo4.freeservers.com/photo6.html Brian

Did any of you send your pistons in for modification? I am getting ready to send my cyclinders and pistons in for a bore and port job. Bob said he can also modify the new pistons while they are there for $20. Just wondering if anyone has had him do that, and if it is worth it. My main concern is that I do not want to do anything to the piston that would further shorten it's life Thanks! Brian

I have a set of 17cc domes for a cool head by pro design. One of them does have a few pits in it, but nothing that would affect the performance of the dome. I have purchased 22cc domes; I am rebuilding my banshee to run on pump gas at a lower altitude than the previous owner. I also have a white bros boost bottle I know it will go fast, so jump on it!!! $25 shipped for the domes, $10 shipped for the boost bottle. I would also trade the boost bottle for a stock crossover tube. If you would like pictures of the dome pitting, PM me your email address. I could not get the pictures to upload. . . . I am new here, but my ebay ID is "my55chevy" with 100% positive feedback. (you can verify by recent auctions for the banshee, the new domes, etc.) Thanks! Brian

Hi, If you have read a couple of my other posts, you may already know, but I bought a used 2003 banshee. I am in the process of rebuilding the motor and I am going to go ahead and rejet the carbs, as the guy I bought from lived at a high altitude, and it runs way to lean for my area. My question: When I took the carbs apart, I noted the needle has 6 positions. I read in the jetting FAQ that the stock needle has 5 positions. Is that true for the 2003? If I do not have a stock needle, is there a way to determine what I have? Thanks! Brian

If it was a long rod motor, do you think it would still have the stock pistons in it? Is that possible? If it is, would it still need smaller domes for a setup like that? I have a pretty good feeling from looking at the jetting that this bike was ridden at a higher altitude, thus the leaner jets and smaller domes. When I first got it, I replaced the plugs, and from the looks of them, it had not been running lean. If anything it was running rich (of curse I do not knwo the riding habits of the previous owner). I know it was knocking hard; that is why I started looking into what domes it had. I almost did a compression test, but I was afraid (as already pointed out) that it might have smaller domes and they would be covering up a worn top end. I felt I needed to know what domes to know how to read the compression test. I am planning to go ahead and rebuild the top end. The pistons are pretty darn lose in the cylinders. I can actually move them around freely in the cylinders and make them slap the wall with my finger. Now my questions: If I am going to rebuild the top end, should I measure the cylinders and see if I can go back with std. size, or should I just go ahead and start fresh at .020? If I rebuild the top end, and it is the stock crank and rod, I will need 21-22cc domes for pump gas, correct? Thanks! Brian

I am at 226 ft elevation. I really do not want to mess with race gas. I like going down to the local Quick trip and grabbing 93 oct. Brian

I will more than likely rebuild the top end and replace the domes with 21cc.

17's in it!!!!! One of them is already pitted in a few places. I can clean that up, but now to decide if I want to run race gas or buy new domes. More than likely I will be getting new domes. But I am glad I took it apart - Still has the factory pistons in it, so I will more than likely rebuild the top end. Brian

The seller did not know the dome size. He gave me the original owner's name and number, but I think I will just pull the head off tonight and check the size myself. I would like to see what the tops of the pistons look like and check to see if it has ever been bored before. . . . Brian