shanYE west

If your looking for hardware.. this place has just about everything.. OKbeast gave me the link.. I paid $2 ea. for my stainless bolts to replace the studs in my hubs. Easy to use site with online purchasing. http://www.mcmaster.com/#

yeah.. that strip next to the beach is bad news.. too much traffic and the rocks at the end hurt.. lol Jeff was telling us about another spot that they drag towards the begining of the hills somewhere. Nice and smooth and longer with out all the crossing traffic... we were gonna check it out.. but Jeff's mishap stole my thunder and I didn't really feel like riding much after that.. lol

Sounds good Cody. their all yours.

68.25 is the biggest blaster piston wiseco makes... Biggest piston Vito's makes is a cast @ 69mm I'd give either Vito's or Trinity a call.. they might have some specialty pistons on hand that will work for you.

ttt and I'll include hose clamps and stainless bolts

work vs. elkas.. Definitely elka.. Elka recs vs AXIS with rezzies is a bit tougher choice... I'd have to say it would depend on the condition of the AXIS shocks and if the shock was adjustable or not.

Yep.. i was gonna say old style LSR hubs.. but I didn't get here in time.. Also If your having trouble finding the hardware.. why not give LSR a call?

ttt $85 shipped.

I use 2 sections of chain. the smaller piece is about 7-8 links and I change that section out for bigger or smaller pieces depending on my gearing.. Never had any problems on a 115hp motor. but I've never reused the old master links.. always used new ones.. and if the master link is the concern they do make beffier master links that are just as strong as riveted link. Here's a good link http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=97858

Just curious and not tryin to be a Richard but.... then why ask for the best procedure if its "not hard by any means..."?

IF The key does shear.. it will most likely ruin the flywheel shaft of the crank too.. Then the free key just turned into a 400.00 key. Up to you man. its your bike and your choice.

you can get the bearings out with a long extension or something and drive them out from the opposite side.. but they'll be junk. Get a mic and check the bore size. Check it up and down.. and side to side. The bore should be between 1.1010" - 1.1020" you can do the work yourself without hurting the chrome.. just need to go and buy a 1.1015" reamer and run it through. i'm sure any local machine shop could do it also for close to nothing.

I'll say what everyone else is saying.. Dont waste your money on the key and get a cheap casted plate. You'll be much happier in the long run..

That wont help much.. once the bearings get back to normal temp they'll expand and bind on the pivot tube again. The bore needs to be measured and if its off.. needs to be corrected. Been down this road a few times. I've had 3 swingers with this same problem.

The pivot tube not spinning freely in the bearings if from the company not properly re-reaming the tube after the welding. A 1.1015" diameter reamer is used after the bores have been collapsed from the welding. The alternative is to get a 7/8" or 15/16" diameter flap-wheel on your air grinder and work on the egg-shaped bore until it is round and to size again. The optimum bore diameter you are looking for is approx. 1.1010" to 1.1020".

Take a picture and show us what your working with.. are you talking about piston windows or the main intake ports of the cylinder?? I'm kinda confuesed now... 80hp on a stock motor with T-5's?

with the bigger ports you'd loose velocity. Since your loosing velocity you'd pick up less of a fuel charge and would cause the need for bigger jets.. I'm not a builder.. but thats my experience with it. I've had a few motors done and the motors with the bigger intake ports always used bigger jetting. :shrug:

I got a Boss Racing 2 piece billet Intake for 38-40mm carbs. come with bolts but will need some hose clamps. No deep scratches or nicks. Will include the cascade VF3 stuffers if needed They're a lil dirty from the sand dune yet. but will clean up and look like new with a lil polish job which I'll do before I ship. $90 shipped

Give Jim a call. I'm sure he'll tell ya all about them + some! lol

thats my vote too.

The welds on the sides are from opening up the transfers. on the 12 port motors Jim adds the two finger ports in the main intake into the transfers but also adds 2 more window ports through the sleeves into the transfers. His 12 port motors run pretty dang hard. Jim's port work is some of the best I've seen. Always very clean and neat.. Its very impressive in my opinion. :thumbsup:

Its a clean oil.. we used it at the dealer in all the new bikes that left the floor. I'd use it if it blended with methanol. :biggrin:

Blewbyu on here makes a really nice swinger with better pricing then most. I bought a +4 and I was very impressed! He's making my +12 this winter and willl be getting all my swingarm orders.

What he said!

yeah. it was a great time. Just glad to see Jeff walk away. Cant wait to hang out with you guys at Bobs. Jeff, Let us Know if you need anything. I'm sure I can't help much.. but.. I'll do what I can.