TrickShee259

Looks like you might need to start specializing in some mustang stuff too... very nice work!!

Yea for what i'm doing i don't have tht much room. I have a extended cab f250 and the back seat seatback is actually the box so the people in back are leaning on my box. Right now i have 3 fosgate 10s (bottom of the line 8 ohm pieces of crap) and i need more. I just picked up a fosgate power 1000bd for 200 bucks and i'm leaning towards getting 2 10" CompVRs. the dual 2 ohm coils will let me wire each at 4 ohm and then pairing the two subs so i'd be running em into 2 ohms into the amp. over 500 watts apeice what do you think. reccommended sealed box volume on em is about 0.8-3 cubic feet apeice and i can only mange about 1 cube each, but i think it'll still pound they'll have plenty of power

I'm looking at reworking the system in my truck and thinking about getting 2 of kicker's CompVR 10" subs. Possibly the Solobaric 10" L5s? Any one have either of these in their vehicles? how do you like them and don't forget to tell what amp they're powered by!!!

Just as a side question, i've heard of plugs on automotive (v8s and such) engines fouling from excess heat. Is this even a possibility on a 2 stroke or will the rings go before you get a chance to overheat the plugs?

I have had a dyna on my 96 for a while set on the stock curve and the other day wanted to change the curve and i can't find the sheet telling me where to set the switches for each curve. i have the sheet that shows each curve and i undestand em all and everything. all i need to know is how to set each one and where the switches need to be set for each curve. Thanks to everybody!!

i have the one that can be programmed but i just use the 4 factory set curves. My CDI went out so that's why i upgraded to the dyna. I didn't notice any gain power wise, but i did notice that it started easier with a fairly good jump in throttle response. I don't think it was worth it for my motor, but yours is built a little bigger and you'll probably get more out of it. For me. I needed a new one to begin with, but as an upgrade i don't think it's worth the money.

I'm jetting 2 banshee's as a sidejob from my work but 1 is givin me problems. The first is bone stock except for FMF silencers and fatty pipes, boost bottle, and K&N pod filters (no more airbox). I have that one at a 320 main and middle clip on the needle and it runs GREAT. The second is running Toomey T6s, with K&N pods and v-force reeds. This one doesn't have nearly the power as the other and i have it jetted the same as a baseline, 320s and middle clip. Seems to be too rich like this... only differences is this one has the reeds but no bottle, how do i account for this. also it has problems idling, it'll hold an idle for a few seconds but then RPMs drop and it dies. No TORS on either bike Don't laugh too hard if this is easy for you, i have a 2-1 kit and i do all my own tuning on that one... (and it's easy!!)

I think he's sayin that the pistons are a quarter of an inch down below the top of the cylinders. i don't think they're comin above the top of em... from what i understand...

I'm jetting 2 banshee's as a sidejob from my work but 1 is givin me problems. The first is bone stock except for FMF silencers and fatty pipes, boost bottle, and K&N pod filters (no more airbox). I have that one at a 320 main and middle clip on the needle and it runs GREAT. The second is running Toomey T6s, with K&N pods and v-force reeds. This one doesn't have nearly the power as the other and i have it jetted the same as a baseline, 320s and middle clip. Seems to be too rich like this... only differences is this one has the reeds but no bottle, how do i account for this. also it has problems idling, it'll hold an idle for a few seconds but then RPMs drop and it dies. No TORS on either bike Don't laugh too hard if this is easy for you, i have a 2-1 kit and i do all my own tuning on that one... (and it's easy!!)

I run the kenda klaws as well. I race desert and MX and go to the dunes. They're good all around and take crap from rocks and whatnot without flinching. As for wheels i'm running T-9 baja but for trails standard T-9s are good, and strong enough to hold up to those occasion hard hits. also for light riding maybe some douglas blue labels. And the 10x5 will be fine. I'd stick with the 21 diameter though

Sweet. thanks for all your replies. So the stock carbs are 24s?

Here's my situation I have a '96 bored to 382, boyesen reeds and spacers, wiseco pistons, cool head with 22s, Dyna ignition, full Paul Turner Exhaust and a Trinity 2-1 carb kit with the 35mm Keihin. My bike is set up for motocross which is why i have the 2-1 kit for the good bottom end however I want more power for the dunes. Dual carbs are a pain to deal with for me so i don't want to race on em since i travel and have to rejet a lot. My question is would it be worth it to swap back to stock carbs for the dune trips? Trinity claims a 25% increase in bottom end and a 15% increase in top end with their kit however i don't believe that it can breath like it should with that single 35. Also what size are the stockers, i've been told 26mm and 28mm? Would it be a big power gain or a big pain?

If you want pulling power i would say go with the head. I noticed a big torque gain on my motor and i went with the 22cc domes. With this size, you can still run pump gas (91) and not detonate. If you want more of a gain mix some pump 91 50/50 with some 112 VP and go with the 21cc domes. You will notice a gain and your cylinders will run cooler as well due to the better coolant flow pattern on the head.I've been told Higher compression is good for bottom end and it shifts your power curve to a lower rev-range. If you're mostly pinned on the track then go with the 22cc so you'll have a little more top end.