ogre03

That aint funny

If you aren't rebuilding because of a problem, that the best way to tell if you need to is a compression test. Guages are cheap, but make sure you get one with the threaded end. Pistons can be refered to as how many thousandths over (like mine is 20 thousandths over) or in MM. like 50mm. the mm is what you are talking about.

How long before they will let me trade my t6's in for some 5's??!!

where at in alaska? I'm at Ft. Wainwright. (by fairbanks)

could it be caused by the reeds? I don't know if they'd couse those symptoms, but they will cause problems related to only one cylinder

I guess I'll have to settle for getting drunk and sitting on it in my garrage and making motorcycle noises! I really wasn't looking forward to riding it in the freezing ass cold anyway. But I hate to stare at it all winter and not ride.

I was going to ask about the race fuel too. Unless you are set up to run high compession, etc. A high octaine fuel isn't going to do anything but drain your wallet faster. I run no airbox, with a foam filter, it is pretty well up and out of the way, and I use a pre filter. I ride dirt, but I avoid deeper water crossings and excessive mud because of my filter. I personaly would prefer a K&N in the box with no lid as opposed to the set up I have now, just less to worry about.

just a thought, but for the price of switching from your 4's to 5's you could easily pay for your gore woods port.

As far as the hone/re-ring thing goes it depends on what your cylinders measure out at. You may need a bore. As for weather or not you need to tear into the bottom end of it, how many hour are on it? Are you rebuilding it because something went wrong, or just cause it seems like it's about time?

When I read this I had so hoped that I would get to be the first to coment on the hp gained by the flame grill and head lights...

If I wasn't a complete computer retard I could post a picture of the empty pro lite box from where I just used them for my top end today.

I figured after all my stupid newbie question's you might like to know that my bike is back together with my first ever top end job, and it fires right up. Of course I can't ride it. I'm in alaska and the temp is now around 0 to -15. Unlike the 65-70 degree weather that it was jetted for. Does anyone have expirience with running their banshee's in sub zero temps?

I'll go ahead and try the +4, it's only going to get colder around here. Do I need to mess with anything other than just the main jets?

My bike ran great at around 65-70 deg. this summer, before I had to replace the top end. Now being that I'm in alaska it's about zero, maybe less. And I'm about to put it back together again. What is a good starting point for finding my jetting? I have t6's and a single large foam air filter with no box, and I'm at about 450-500 ft. elevation. Also, are there any bad side effects to running a shee in such cold weather? I know there are a lot of two stroke snowmobiles so it has to be possible. Thanks for the help.

Another question regarding octane. Is it a bad idea to mix octane boos in your fuel?

I just thought of something... Is there a way to tell if the head has already been milled? I bought the bike used and you never know, I'd hate to do it again and ruin the head. I know checking the compression will tell me. But my jugs are already at the shop. Aside from waiting till it's all back together, is there another way?

thanks for the help. I think I'll drop it off today. he guy already has my cylinders, (bore/hone) he might as well have my head too. .030 sound about right?

If I shave 0.030 off my head, what octain do I need to run. From what I've read on here, I don't need race fuel, however my gas sucks. I'm in Alaska and the best gas on a regular pump is 90 octane. Will I be asking for detonation?

Does anyone know a good plastic polish? I've seen some that promise good results, but they want to sell their product, I want to see a real review.

I'm stationed in Alaska and this will be my first winter with my shee. Any advice for a starting point for my jetting? I'm at about 450' elevation and I'm going to be looking at about 0 - 25 degrees by the time I get my bike back together. My bike has T-6's and a 2 into 1 boot with a foam filter (no air box).

thanks jim, like I said I'm going to take it in, and have it measured and bored/honed, but I hate taking my stuff to someone and not knowing what is going on. Thanks again

I did a search, and I know there are many bore dimension questions in past threads. But mine is a little too specific to get a good answer by reading them... I tried. I measured out my cylinders, to find out what the bore is on them. (I bought the bike used) I came up with 2.531" which I believe is 64.26mm. correct me if I'm wrong please. I was told that that is a stock bore. I know 64mm is stock, but being 64.26mm can anyone tell me if I need to bore it more to a specific size or just hone it? I'm going to take it in and have the engine shop measure it but, I figure it's best to have an idea of what I'm talking about before I go in there.

thanks for the help

When I pulled my head off durring my tear down for a new top end I found that the left side chamber in the head is kinda pitted. Can I polish the pits out as much as possible and let it go at that? Will that effect the compression? I know if you sand away at it it will, but how much polishing can I get away with?

I'm at Ft. Wainwright