sand4ever

any ideas to what the prob is. I'm going to take the carbs apart tomorrow and check the reeds. But could it be the stator that is giving me problems? Any takers

get a nut the size of the inside diameter then put a short I mean short bolt through the nut. slp it in and loosen. At least that is what I used, maybe they make a tool. Sorry Yes that has to come out in order to remove the bearing

ok so I just put this motor together and wanted to try it out. it seems to run on both cylinders when cold , as it warms up the right side seems to cut out. i pulled my stator cover off and looked at the gap between the stator and point. Were talking almost a eighth inch. So I looked back at the instructions for the stator and it says gap .010 to .015. I have no more adjustment left. And looking at the stator plate the holes for the point are not square to the flywheel. So will this affect the ignition and cause this to run poorly , especially when warm or hot I have adjusted the carbs in sync. All connections are good. plugs are clean, but of course the right side is wet from not firing. This is a simple motor stock bore w/ weisco pro-lights, +3 degrees timing, modquad cool head, t-5 toomeys, 320 main jets, medium porting, 110 race fuel, and so on. What could be the problem or could it be the timing plate? And yes I mispelled stator!!!!

I like the looks of mine with the rear cut, just depends on where you ride. Personally I only ride sand and my rears were scratched bad. So I cut them and then had them painted.here is a pic of mine

well I got the rear to seal with the copper washers, However my front brake resevoir I had polished. When they polished the resevoir they rounded part of the seat area, thus it will not seat. So I guess I will have to have another resevoir polished and hopefully they miss this area on purpose. Thanks for the input

explain the copper washes that are for refrigeration. Are these the same as stock copper washers. Or are these different diameter?

OK so I had my brake calipers chromed and now it is down to the wire. Thursday we leave for winchester bay to ride and I cannot get the brake calipers to stop leaking. I purchased steel braided brake lines and they have aluminum washers. But since where the washers seat to the caliper is chromed they will not seat. Has anybody had this problem and how did you solve this. I am out of Ideas and have little time to get this resolved. Any help would really be great. Thanks

So I should take it to a machine shop and have them mill it flat? Is that what you meant?

i had my front brake resevoir polished and now It leaks where the brake line connect to it. It seems they rolled an edge where the copper washer connects to the resevoir. Any one have an idea to stop the leak. I'm trying to bleed the brakes and of course this cannot be done until the leak it fixed. Can i use silicone? Also I'm using steel braided lines. Two individual lines to the calipers.

They paint won't come off if it is preped right. My painter had the plastic bead blasted and then he primed and painted . From what he tells me this should last for a long time as long as I keep up on the paint( and keep away from trees). Thats all i can tell you from what I know.

Speed150 Told me he was done selling. all he had left was some odds and ends he was getting rid of. So I wish he was still around I really like my stator cover.

Make sure you really go over the frame. When I had mine powdercoated I missed some of the splatter that the factory welds leaves. Also if you weld up the holes for the front motor mounts or the front bumper, make sure that you do a really good job of filling. Otherwise when they bake the pc you will have small holes from the fill melting out. Last tap and die will be your best friend. Do all of the bolt holes then air blow them out and repeat. Remember you only want to do the pc once and do it well!!I would also second on replacing all the bearings since you are there. Check Ebay out for a bearing kit that includes all hub bearings including seals the steering stem bearings and seal and the swing arm and carrier bearings as well. I bought mine for @ $60.00 Good Luck

To have my frame pc'd along with the four hubs and the disk brake hub and the sprocket hub was $300.00 in oregon. The lollipop blue is a two stage color process. In my opinion I would not paint the frame. Powdercoating lasts alot longer if it is done right. But painting it is easier to match colors to the plastic. That was my only problem with powdercoating.Just my two cents worth :

Just for paint and materials was close to 400.00 then I had the plastic sand blasted and then the pianters time. Total was 811.00 I know its alot but dam it looks good. thanks for the compliments

Look at the next item in the banshee appearance forum!!!

I used a dremel and then used a palm sander to finish the job. Look at the pic of my bike.

here is a pic after I just set the plastic on for a shot. I really did spend $800.00 to have just the plastic painted. It is HOK cobalt candy blue and the frame is lollipop blue. They are so close I can't tell the difference. What do you think?

I'm using the cap nuts and copper washers that came with the modquad head. that is why I do not understand why it is leaking

I just fired up my new motor and after a few minutes it started leaking antifreeze out of the four middle nuts. All the nuts were torqued to 23 ft lbs. the motor runs stock bore weisco pro lights, +3 degrees timing, modquad coolhead 18cc, t-5 toomeys. After pulling the head off and examining it, the seals were all in place and everything looked fine. So can any one tell me what to do to fix the leak. thanks

I just spent $800.00 on getting my plasitc painted, now I need some suggestions on mounting them w/o peeling the paint up. Any one with helpfull info would be appreciated. I thought about metal collared washers, but cannot find any around here. So give me your ideas. thanks