trickedcarbine

Ok, the bike pulls through to 4 then just wont rev and falls out of the power band. as far as the compression I am running sunoco 110 with bel ray synthetic at 40:1. I went up in the main and it still looks lite brown on a br9 plug. I run the br9 plug to try to help with keeping the heat down with the compression and timing i have. Could this be an ignition problem due to an RM STATOR failing and eating the inside of my fly wheel. The main question is will the bike run better if i can get it to idle even though the choke/idle screw is in all the way. also the gearing is 14-41 on 20 inch tire

hey chris, exattly wich walmart light do these go in. i was runnin some of those rectangle blue fog lamps but they were not quite what i was lookin for.

hey chris, exattly wich walmart light do these go in. i was runnin some of those rectangle blue fog lamps but they were not quite what i was lookin for.

I'll be racing a few this year. prolly the flint and white lake races, the rest will just be fun with buddies. we should stay in contact and maybe rep the hq at a few events. It is my first season on ice so I expect to get my arse handed to me but i also hope to learn alot and any one already runnin a shee with a few pointers would be awsome. at the very least we can toy with some 4 pokes.

my jetting is 55 pilot, cel on middle clip, with 155 main. i currently am using velocity stacks(screened) with no pods to dial in my ice setup. the plug reads lean up top even with my pods on instead of my stacks. I'll try to set up a leak down test. any other ideas mucho appreciated. brett

every body will bad mouth the power jets and dial a jets, but give them a try. once you get your adjustment for low and high elevations, find a way to rig a little handle on it with a stop so that while your riding wou can just stick ur hand under there and slap it. I have seen bikes set up for pikes peak style riding with this mod when i was in washington. I tried to take pix of a 310 powervalve 250r motor with a spring loaded setup that I believe was esr built but was immediately shouted at so you gotta use your imagination.

Ok gettin chilly here in michigan so i had a day off to play with the carbs and decided to tinker with the choke screw and have found that it appears to run down low way harder, but my 5-6 gears are totally lean, enough so that it just wont pull any rpm what so ever. I know i gotta tinker with the main to fix the top. However would I be wrong by trying to close the choke/idle screw all the way in and using my carb top adjusters to get a good idle? Mods in sig.

just a quick note, you can get the shift pro cheaper on ebay and problably a modded star as well if you feel like sitting down long enough to find it. I believe they are even on ebay direct (cascade). Plus jeff mods the upper and lower area on the shaft. same amount as what savage posted just both sides.

well, depends on what ur riding is. I personally feel that it would be wise. I am actually gonna get one cut at passion and cryotreated for my bike. the debate is that the gears are to big and that the shee needs the shorter gearing to get up and go, but i got enough mods to make the torque to pull it. Plus I feel that to ride the banshee I have to shift way to much and I hope that the rz tranny will smooth out that traction issue we all love and hate. For example take a look at the newer 4 stroke bikes out right now. Some of the pro bikes never leave 3-4 and on the smaller indoor supercross tracks there are are bikes that are in 2-3 and only touch 4 on a long straight. I'm actually building my bike strictly for flat track and ice racing and am confident that the rz cut may be for me. Not sayin it's for you, but if you have the ability to swap one out your self then go for it. You can always change back to your stock setup if it isnt what you thought. Plus it'll break 100 alot easier and be a blast if you're on the open stuff

hmmm...I love that there has been so much r&d into this situation. Any way, I have used the maxima, and the plastic renew. Maxima never lasts but looks cool if u just want it pretty in the garage, the plastic re-new is ok, but it has to be done in ultra fine coats And ure really spending all ur money on is industrial floor sealer. So now thats what I use and it lasts for a long time, alot of guys say im nuts, but when they see my plastic they say it's genius. Here's the process: Wet sand with SOAPY water to 2000 grit. (the soap is just a lil' lube) Rinse and dry rub thouroughly with 0000 ultra fine steel wool after dry and rinse again clean with any degreaser(409,fantastic,etc.) acquire industrial type floor sealant and both 4" and 2" sponge style paint brushes Obviously use the 2" for tight areas and the 4" for large open areas Apply 3-5 ULTRA THIN coats allowing about 15-20 minutes for each to set and dry. I only use the steel wool again if there are any bubbles, runs, or dust and grit landing Buff the plastic with a good cloth and compound of ure choice, power tools are only a go if you absolutely know how not to burn through, Otherwise you'll be doing the whole thing over again. Mud falls right off and it is easily maintained with regular hose downs (I use an electric power washer). any tough spots are taken care of with MR. Clean Magic Eraser Happy trails and good luck, it takes hard work to look good while riding hard.

usually when I go out there to their shop to get stuff, it's kinda hard to get a peek at whats goin on in the back but I did see a set of those big block cylinders that were supposedly reworked for a 4 mil and they looked very nice. I'm not one of those people that can look at a cylinder and tell you if the transfers or intake ports are to high or to low by just takin a glance but I do know that these were very clean, and the symetry was mint. Upon turning one upside down the transfers had a very even cut on both sides and I definitely could tell these things were for the dunes. Also there was some additional exhaust ports , but I think these come cast on those cyls, but I feel they should of at least cleaned those up a but to smooth the casting, but that might not have been worth the effort.

F.A.S.T. manifold is sweet. just rebuilt my bike and could actually notice a difference with the bottom end plus it hits hard up top!

was that you building that turbo shee on hmt with the you tube vids, what ever happened to that thing

that rm stuff is pretty good. havn't actually heard any real complaints but their stuff hasn't been around very long so not many people know about it and their quality is definitely called in to question. Time will tell, personally I run their stator, coil, and plate. had to use my oem boots on the coil but am pretty happy. any one I know that runs their stuff feels the same, good stuff for great price. WORD OF THE WISE: STAY AWAY FROM "RICKEY STATOR"

when will this godess fire......pix plz

I buy from ya all the time and wouldn't mind helpin ya out. I live near waterford so I'm sort of local and if ya had all the parts to rebuild I wouldn't mind workin with ya. Shoot $5.00 a piece and we could make it happen. By the way the peps shock I got a few months ago is titties.

Alright I posted twice about my shee shuttin down and not wanting to idle. Ran like bad ignition or burning coolant. So as I was going to rebuild the carbs for like the 20th time I go to remove my left pipe and as I'm loosening it I hear a click...... I push the pipe back and wiggle it again and hear more profound clicks. turns out that my choke would press against the upper taper of the pipe right at the clamp, and as I would ride the piece would vibrate ever so slightly up and over the taper of the pipe opening the choke about half way. Man what an idiot I am. I removed material from the choke knob upon building the quad so I thought it would just melt a lil bit if it wasnt enough. Man its tight when running F.A.S.T. billet manifold, FMF fatties, and 34mm PJ's. So I'm going to remove the choke screw assembly, remove the plastic knob, and solder on a tube over the current shaft and re attatch the knob to the extension. Plus there was a problem with the new ngk plugs (BR9ES) they now have this cap that can be easily switched between new and old style plug top so they were coming loose after addressing that and the choke the shee killed a built raptor and I've been pitching a tent ever since!

k.... so I noticed the left side makin a lil more smoke first, so if it was goin lean it would of idled a lil bit higher right?????

OK, this thing won't run for shit at idle and, well I checked the head and its torqued so I don't think its leaking, the jetting is the same as when it ran spot on. Before I go spend some money on building a leakdown tester, what are the symptoms of a bad lower end seal so I know if i'm lookin in the right direction. the seals are brand new, but hey, I'm just another stupin f****ng amatuer.

hey booker, I felt a 60 was to big, but after running it just down low my plugs were a bit on the grey side and it popped alot on a 55 pilot. It ran great for about a week on the 60 before this happened

yeah, I retorqued the head. I may try a complete re-install to be sure its the o-rings(wich are new). the fuel is Sunoco 110 racing fuel with 40:1 Bel Ray h1r synthetic. new plugs when switching from break in 32:1 over to 40:1 mixture Just don't get how it barely made any smoke and ran great on current jetting then poof want's to die. had about 2 gallons of the new mix through her before this started.

ok. Just finished my banshee build. Jetted my 34 pj's with 60 pilot,155 main and needle in stock kehin position. the choke/idle adjust is out at 7 1/2 turns and it idled real pretty and the plugs were so perfect. like they were used to wipe a chocolate bar's ass! So I ran this thing up and down our dirt roads and through the s-turns and it ran strong and idled great. I go out to the trails for the first time and never really lay in to it hard and kept touching the head to see if she was gettin' hot. No problems at all, then I roll up to the monster hill climb and pull through the gears and get to the top and pull the clutch and it instantly wants to die. I chop the throttle to keep it goin' thinking that maybe my new motor is capable of suckin the bowls dry on a climb. I wait a few secs and It still wont idle. runs under throttle but not great sounds like fouled plugs do so I go check them and theyre still choco brown. I check the compression and the right was 182 and the left was 178. I crank her up again and notice that the left is smoking way more then the right and so I decide to limp it home but by the time I get to my road this thing needs so much throttle at idle to stay running and there is a cloud the size of a house behind me , but now it's coming out of both cylinders. Not sure where to start just wanna know a few ideas as to what could be a problem so that I can start trouble shooting with out wasting to much time looking for something I'm not sure of. Yes I broke it in.(5 gals @ 32:1) crank seals? rings? water pump issues(leaking)? O-rings in head? any suggestions would be sweet!

hershey syrup sounds pretty bad now that I think of it, sorry for the bad annolagy, just meant it looked like chocolate brown. jetting is nice though. I'll check the timing pick up and pray that it works because the oil isn't milky so I don't think its burnin' coolant. And yes to the break in question as well as the retorque on the head and since it's a cool head I had my local shop tell me to tighten it more then the stock head specs in my clymer thanks for the support HQ especially the local michigan boys

ok. Just finished my banshee build. Jetted my 34 pj's with 60 pilot,155 main and needle in stock kehin position. the choke/idle adjust is out at 7 1/2 turns and it idled real pretty and the plugs were so perfect. Looked like they were dipped in hershey's syrup. So I ran this thing up and down our dirt roads and through the s-turns and it ran strong and idled great. I go out to the trails for the first time and never really lay in to it hard and kept touching the head to see if she was gettin' hot. No problems at all, then I roll up to the monster hill climb and pull through the gears and get to the top and pull the clutch and it instantly wants to die. I chop the throttle to keep it goin' thinking that maybe my new motor is capable of suckin the bowls dry on a climb. I wait a few secs and It still wont idle. runs under throttle but not great sounds like fouled plugs do so I go check them and theyre still choco brown. I check the compression and the right was 182 and the left was 178. I crank her up again and notice that the left is smoking way more then the right and so I decide to limp it home but by the time I get to my road this thing needs so much throttle at idle to stay running and there is a cloud the size of a house behind me , but now it's coming out of both cylinders. Not sure where to start just wanna know a few ideas as to what could be a problem so that I can start trouble shooting with out wasting to much time looking for something I'm not sure of. crank seals? rings? water pump issues(leaking)? O-rings in head? any suggestions would be sweet!

Thanks for the input guys, much appreciated. larry I hear ya man and thanx!