Banshee_Guy

Its giong on ebay this week.

Dont be affraid to make offers, ill consider any reasonable price.

Ive seen a few yes! But i didnt say thats what i was selling mine for. Any reasonable offer will be considered!

You would be better off buying my bike and selling yours! Or i can take it on trade for my bike and just sell it. Depending on what its like. There is nothing stock on it. As for ATVnews.com, dont really care. Time for something different. There is nothing left i can do to it and i want a new project, learn something new. I can always build a new one later on!

2002 Banshee The only stock parts are the hubs and brakes, shift and brake levers and thumb throttle. Just some of the parts include: 420 Billet monoblock Vitos head - Twin blaster pistons - hot rod H129 crank (4mm stroker, 5mm long rod) - Case matched porting - polished exhaust Janssen +2+1 A arms Leager -1 swing arm Elkas all around Gusseted frame Fluidyne Rad chrome +3 antivide lonestar stem Pro tie rods Hydraulic clutch cltuch locker Black maier plastics trinity 2 into 1 35mm carb billet clutch basket barnette clutch pack AC nurfs Roll Design kick up foot pegs full skids Hypertech beadlocks all around tag bars shift pro star Billet inline coolers Clarke 5.5 gal tank and more, just cant think of it all Shocks were rebuild last year Motor has 2 hours on it after purchase of 420 kit No money spared, well maintained, always used klotz synthetic oils Make me an offer, only reasonable please, over $20,000 in parts invested. If i dont get any reasonable offers it will be giong on ebay. Similar ones start at $12,000. Im in Cornwall Ontario Canada, ill do anything i can to help it get into your hands!

You will have to remove the clutch cover, (clutch cover gasket, kick start seal) and the shifter so you can slide it through (shift shaft seal). Used atv dealers, yamaha shop, or ebay are all good places to look!

If you get the one off ebay, make sure you DO NOT get the mechanical one, you have to get the 12 volt one, the mechanical one breaks on the banshee from the vibration, i had one. And 12 volt one is also small enough to mount on the top of your rad cover! They are very accurate, unlike the meat ones, i tried those also!

Ive never heard of anyone stripping their studs after changing them. But even so, you dont have to change your studs if you are giong to a noss... on pro design you have to change your studs. Or vitos... As for the trinity head, its probably the best head on the market and they also offer the turbo cut domes. The 2 best cooling paterns for cool heads are the trinity and the vitos hemi head! They cool the lower jug better.

The cub is more of a drag dune style cylinder, high top end power, not very much low. The vitos is more of a broad power band. I just purchased one that im using with blaster pistons, match ported case and a 4mm stroker 5mm long rod so soon as i get it running next week ill let you know what i think! Just PM me next week if i forget!

Not too sure how well it will work, none of the ignition companies will tell you if it works or not because they said they havent tested it. The way i look at it is the stator is powering the lights, the flywheel is powering the spark, so it doesnt seem like it will matter. And any have any problems with burning holes in the top of the pistons with one? Just with the DYNA FS, not because they ran a 200W stator...

Thats a smokin deal and will be hard to beat, for that price it most likely doesnt come with a clean up port job which is nice. I have bought a few items off them and havent had any problems. They have extremely hard to beat prices!

Im running Keihin 35mm carbs. The biggest main jet keihin has is 230. I run as low as -35 celcius and with a 420 vitos monoblock that will not be suficient! I was running 210 with a stock bore. ANyone know where to find the drill size charts to drill your own jets?

Can we see some pics?

What year is the bike?

I found the o-rings, just need to know what size. Same as the original, bigger. What dimensions so i can order them! Thanks Alot! Jason

Im installing an after market crank in my shee for the second time. I installed an H129 4mm stroker 5mm long rod. The stock crank has pins to stop it from spinning, but the aftermarket crank only has o-rings which are not working out! Ive noticed one o-ring broke and noticed some spinning! Has anyone figured out a way to install pins or have any suggestions? Thanks!

I have the single carb, awsome power! Porting compliments the larger carb and you wont get the full effect of either if you dont have the other! Porting lets more fuel in, carbs put more fuel in! So you wont notice as big of a difference if you only get one of them!

Its amazing what a dirty cable can feel like!

THat bold is directly on your crank... the only thing stoping the crank from spinning when holding your flywheel is the timing key! THe only think that could be spinning is the crank but you would notice the bike turning over and trying to start. Ive taken many off but have never had this problem! If the timing key broke that means your timing is messed and it wont run too well! or it could cause your motor to blow!

Im setting my bike up a little different this year! Going to be racing the 1.5 hours FMSQ touring Quebec Canada! I was thinking of the cheetah cub or the vitos monoblock 404, both using a 4mm stroker 5mm long rod. Has anyone ever tried these set up for this type of racing? What kind of rad protection does everyone use?

One more thing. If you are ported and polished with a shaved head... those are the two biggest increases in heat! Get yourself a cool head and increase your reliability by 100%... specially with a stock rad that has a hard time cooling a stock machine!

The second pic from 2 months ago looks a little on the lean side. The second blow looks like it dove into the exhaust. Make sure you have good chamfer on the top of the exhaust port so its a smooth transition. As for the floats... if they are set too low, it will not let enough fuel into the bowl and cause you to lean out, especially when full throttle!! If the float is too low it will close off the valve too early and not let the ride amount of fuel into the bowl. TO adjust the float you take off the bowl, put the carb right side up and start flipping it over very slowly untill you notice the valve is closed. Take a measurement and adjust it accordingly with the little metal tab! Have fun!

I use the ITP HD's, they are a little heavier but will dominate any terrain, they are amazing in mud, sand, rocky areas, and still decent on hard pack! THey are bullet proof tires, 20 in the rear and 22 in the front. I did a cross country race with them and was dancing around everyone! IRazrs are supposed to be pretty good, kendas suck, and the ITP XC line is pretty good, there are a few to choose from!

It could be timing, but most likely too rich. Do a WOT test and check your plug color and go from there!!

Its most likely something as simple are your jetting! When it idles its your pilot jet and you air screw that are effecting the bike... If you put new plugs in it will it start back up? If so, its your jetting! Try turning your air screw out a little, it should be out at least 1.5 turns and maybe try a smaller pilot jet! You can also check your compression, if its low, or uneven from side to side, it could be time for rings or you a fresh bore if you scuffed it! If you put a few more details it will be easier to diagnose!