odaen

when someone comes out with a bike that weighs 375, puts 80HP to the wheels for the 5k I got into my shee, I'll "sell out" and buy it. don't count on it any time soon.

I couldn't sell out like that.

http://www.cpindinc.com/

they should've called it 4strokequadsthatfeelleftout.org

what pipes, air filter, elevation?

I get them from ebay and paypal

sounds to me like you might be too fat on your main. sounds like your needle is right, and as you the needle moves all the way out of the main, you're getting too much fuel, so it bogs, but is able to come out of it. moving one clip higher on your needle might help ya out too

matters what tires and what terrain. sand with 21" haulers, you're gonna be fighting an uphill battle moving from the 13 tooth front.

T5's would be a good compromise for both worlds. Trail riding and such, it's nice to have some low-end torque and a wider usable powerband. Drag'ing, they are an OK pipe, but will fall off about 1000 RPM sooner than CPI's or Rockets and probably 1500 RPM sooner than shearers, but you can most likely pull a higher gear ratio due to the wider powerband.

There are very many reputable builders around, but I'd still honestly recommend finding someone local or at least within moderate driving distance. Where are you from? Probably a handful of people on this site that are close to you, they might be able to shed some light on some local shops.

Pro-Circuits, T5's, and FMF's all have what I'd consider a very forgiving powerband. They develop a good deal of torque at lower RPM's than what I've seen from CPI's, Shearers, or even Rockets. This allows for far more sloppy riding. My stock stroke ported shee with T5's developed torque almost 1000 RPM lower than my 4mm ported shee with CPI's. If you're having problems falling out of the band with PC's, then maybe you need a gear change or something, because your problems are gonna be worse going with Rockets.

assuming you have the HP, with 17/38 and 20" tires, you'd need to be turning 9500 RPM to break 100MPH

gross, that thing belongs in a Wes Craven movie

sometimes a head gasket or more commonly an o-ring if you are running a cool head will fail and won't really show when you're doing a compression check, but will pressurize your coolant system as your head and cylinder heat, forcing coolant out the overflow

I run CPI's and am very very pleased with them. Never dyno'd or ran my bike with anything else though, so I'm open to try stuff.

unless you have a very aggressive port job, i wouldn't think shearers would be the best top end pipe, but then again, I've never seen a dyno sheet that proved as such.

it wasn't clear to me in your post, but your bike has run since all of the electrical changes? unhooking your keyswitch will make it not run. you have to bypass it by shorting a couple of wires together. I'm not certain about the kill switch, but it may be the same case.

I just hope you dyno those Trinity's before you switch to the shearers. I've never seen any dyno sheets of some built motors running them. I wouldn't be all that surprised if they performed decently.

I run 14/41 with 21 inch 10 paddle haulers.... 4mm ported motor

hell yes, that looks like fun

Is the bulb reader friendly?

i use to have the same setup. you're gonna want a 310 or 320 main jet. i have no idea what toomey has in mind with their "perfect jet kit"

out of the 4 you listed, yes

T5's

when you pull the top-end off, may as well take the head and get it shaved a tad to bump up to 160ish for compression. will give you more low-mid torque and will still be safe to run 92 octane pump gas. spend the $35 on the ricky stator timing plate too and advance your timing 3 or 4 degrees. you'll have a completely different bike when you do all of the above at rebuild time, compared to before.