greg_banshee

its drilled out about 1/2" toward the front. it will give you that extra little adjustment u need between the 2 red marks is where its drilled out.

ya amn that Green & Bluw look Bitchin' i'm Green & black & (Chrome, polished aluminum, etc..)

Yes i Agree with cut fenders !

all i painted my plastics with was Rocker-Guard ! haha the paintable stuff works best cause it evens out pretty good not like plastic paint but hey .. it worked & looked alright & TUFF !

Yeah i Agree Do PM's regularly and spend the extra few $$ on quality name brand stuff & you shouldn't have that problem. i've always liked the RK Chain but thats just my opinion. i use Kimpex sprokets there made by (the sproket specialist) i get them threw work for cheep & they last long. and i use that Bel-Ray Chain lube ... it doesn't fling off it comes out white and then drys almost like a wax.

BR8EIX NGK Iriduims best plug ever made !

ya i seen ... that so i'll have to make up my mind & get some money tgh and get er done ! thanx fellas

if the chain is good & so are the sprokets u can ground out ur swinger a but more to give you the extra adjustment u need. if u have a dremel or rotary tool then it'll be easy, even i just used a drill & then filed it out ... worked for me ! i'll post a pic if ya want try it and let me know man

Thanx for the info ! ya i think i'll go with the Wiesco Kit. my Shee hasn't been in dirt wheels yet, i hope it is soon tho ! lol

ya that'd be like puttin a K-car engine into an M1 Tank ... banshee has a solid frame but its 20 years old ... set up the banshee (espically the motor the best part) set the suspension up for MX. it can be done, and put some work into the motor and u off to the races.

Just want some info on the GORR port from Eric Gorr. feedback and opinions. also how to get a hold of him and roughly cost of porting. i do trail running, open pit running, hill climb, wide open dirt roads, etc .. pretty much everything. Thanx in advance. my mods are ... Head shaved .030", Pro Circuit Platniums, intakes cut, FMF ram valve reeds, TORS removed, 280mains 40pilots, needle on 4th clip, stock pistons & bore but will get top end done if (HOPE TO GOD) i get it ported, i'll bore it to .020" over.

i got loads more low end then i ever had with PC's ... and all the way threw the powerband. top end & mid are much more wild then bottom end but there is a good gain for sure. i ride tight trails, open pits and dirt roads and run 100-150' gravel faces that are VERY steep and have like a 15-20' runoff ... n/p for me ! i liked them much more better then my buddies FMF Gnarlys thats for sure.

yes .. it will drain out when ya pull the side cover off cause theres an inlet tube going into the case up into the head. or u can pull ur rad hose off where it goes into the side cover and drain it so it doesn't go down into the trany even tho all ur oil will come out with it to i ususally just put a bucket under it and take the side cover off. tip the bike up a bit on its side to to get all the coolant out.

Matt Coulter, attempted 205 feet over paddlewheel steamboat in England on a Banshee, But yes he did hit the Steamboat with his rear wheels lol but hell nice attempt EH !

Man "HellDriver" thats looks like a pretty nice little track ya got there something to play around on .. heres my oval lol

i like how it jumps ! not saying its the lightest thing in the air but i think its pretty predictable

my mods at the time were ... head shaved .030" and intakes are cut a bit with a UNI filter with 15/40 gearing. notice i didn't say i was completely stock, i said i had the stock pipes on tho (Big power loss) lol not saying them mods are huge or anything but ya.

1km = 0.6 miles not really that far ... its not exactly a km its more like 0.8 of a km so probley 1/2 a mile roughly the straight strech is.

i won't tell ya shit, mind u this wants just a 300ft drag lol supose to be ... "Mind you this Wasn't just a 300ft drag" sorry

no seriosuly ... i'm not tellin u shit man even buddie on the CRF250 said he was behind by at least 8 ... i won't tell ya shit, mind u this wants just a 300ft drag lol it was like 1km or close to it. Its a stright strech just across the road from where i am.

Yeah i second that ... we can't see pics

ya i'm actually going to do a rebuild and bore it out probley only 1 over and ppl r telling to get Wiseco kit ... i would but if PRO-X is as good as they say they are and reliable as stock if not more reliable then hell thats what i want i'd sacrifice the extra few HP for that. cause i really don't wana do another rebuild every year or every 2 years even .. i will if i have to but if i don't have to i won't. my 99 is on stock bore and only had a ring job 3 years ago and it had 115-120lb's a side before the summer last year, but i feel bad them pistons are gona let lose anytime now so Are the POR-X pistons really more reliable ?

had the same problem when i first attempted it. Yes u have to take the whole clutch cover off (who asked that question?) and once u get it off ... when ur lookin at ur clutch assembly u will see 1st the Pressure plate. then it will go ... Fiber disk, steel clutch plate, fiber disk, steel clutch plate etc... untill u end up at the end... the last plate should be a FIBER disk all inside ur clutch basket. Ok for adjustment - First - adjust ur cable on the perch in till theres about 2 or 3 threads left. 2nd - the adjustment on the pressure plate, theres a 12mm jam nut to lock the push rod (loosen it just a bit) 3rd - there will be a Philips screw head slot at the end of that push rod for adjustment where u loosend the 12mm jam nut off. 4th - hold ur perch in and adjust ur pressure plate in with a philips screw driver on the push rod. once u feel tension on ur perch adjust it (when u have ur perch pulled in right to the handle bar) get it close to the arrow on the case and then tighten up the jam nut. try it a few times pullin it in & letting it out ... (you perch should pull in about 1/2 way before u start to engage the clutch) and fully pulled in, the arrows should line up (arrow on ur case & arrow where the end of the clutch cable attaches).you might have to do some fine tuning with ur cable adjustment on ur perch and ur perch should have free play in it. DO NOT adjust ur cable up tight thats just like holding ur clutch on or 1/2 on ... belive me i did it and it slipped like a bastard & i wore a clutch out in no time. hope this helps man ! i'm just going by what my buddie did when he came into help me got er now tho and hooks up real good and since learing that i can do it myself no problem !

ya i'd like to get another Banshee very soon before 2007 just to have to becasue the GF wants to eventually be able to have one she loves the banshees and i'm like the luckiest guy in the world to have her shes great. but i have to start her off on something tame lol i supose i could put stockers on it and have it completely stock & down the gearing so its 1/2 tame lol

ya man no problem lol i took a Z with a k&n and an HMF Balance pipe on it and this is when i had the stockers on... haha he had me for the firt 20 feet by about 1/2 bike lenght then as soon as i hit 3rd 4th 5th & 6th ... he was back like 8 bike lenghts haha and i wasn't even toped out yet pullin away from him like nothin and hes a good rider hahahah bahaahahaha The "Z" hahaha what a joke.