dajogejr

Ran my bike for over two years now without a crossover... I don't believe in them. Sync your carbs....live on.

Clean/grind the old epoxy off. I had to redo mine when the epoxy leaked. It lasted about 1 trip and blew the side cover out after a few passes. I didn't do a good enough job cleaning off the old epoxy. Weld it, get it re-powdercoated. You won't have any more issues!!! It took a while for mine to leak the first time. Once It did....it was all over after that.

It's a lot more than 9....that's just 9 over a stock curve... I used to run my plate at 8 and curve 3 on the Dyna on my 4 mil cub on race gas....

These are the only bottle you need to worry about.

Do a compression check. If there was an air leak at the filter, it could very well have sucked dirt/sand etc and done a number on the motor. Take a picture of the spark plugs you pulled out....I'd like to see them. Were they black, brown, aluminium colored?? Remove the Spark plugs, hold one against the head and push the kick starter down with your foot. Look for a fat blue spark. If it sparks, put it back in the bike, spray a teeny bit of starting fluid in the motor through the carbs...kick it, see if it fires. A motor only needs fuel, spark and compression to run.

We've used Moroso AB epoxy. There is a Devcon type pour in epoxy that works ok. I got tired of the epoxy leaking, etc...I got mine welded. Best thing you can do is weld those covers in. From the fluid and the vibration, IMO, sooner or later they're gonna leak.

Sorry to say, if both riders are close in skill and weight, your shee is gonna get beat. That thing will hook out of the whole and keep pulling. You might get him in the top of 6th gear...if the race lasts that long.

Last I checked, the stock curve on the dyna is 4 degrees advanced over an OEM CDI.

LB05F is the part number, or stock number 8051. I'd bet if you called Jeff @ FAST he'd have them in stock. I think they're around 5 to 8 a piece, but not sure....

YOu should be starting in 2nd and winding out 5th through the traps...shorten up the gearing (larger in the rear)

You should run a Resistor plug with the Dyna. A BR8ES is perfectly fine. You can run both. The plate advanced the timing statically across the entire RPM range, whereas the Dyna give you the increased timing for lower RPMs, but starts retarding up in the top...which gives you more RPMs and more overrrev. My advice, since you got the Dyna...is to leave the plate at 0, take the bike to a dyno and purchase the cable and software to create a custom curve for your motor. Without doing that...in my opinion, I'd just use the plate. (I had a dyna and currently still run a plate) Without making a curve that works for your particular setup...I think it's wasted money.

33PWKs. I just don't like the A/S series. They don't jet as easily or cleanly as the PWKs...from my experience.

I can also tell you I run Jeff's Clutch and Magnum basket. They work, flat out.... You want a long enough arm and enough paddle for the front end to come up....that's when the wheelie bar comes into play. You want smooth. If you're smacking the wheelie bar too hard, you need a longer arm, less paddle, different gearing, etc. And vice versa...if you're sitting and spinning...you need more paddle, gearing, air pressure adjustment, etc....

It all depends on how much deeper you want to get into drag racing. You need a long, low bike with struts or very stiff shocks for drag racing. You may or may not be able to shift with the lockup... Here's the thing. We cut and sell a lot of trannies. There is NO SUCH THING as a trail override. If you find yourself back loading the trans a lot (letting off the gas and NOT pulling the clutch in) you're going to have problems. If you can get in the habit of pulling the clutch in when you let off the gas...you'll be fine. Of the two or three we've had come back, they were backloaded to hell. And the riders fully admitted to it when asked. You can tell by how they wear, the slider gear and the shaft. I've had a 1-5 N down dunable in my drag bike for 3 years now. It works like a champ, fully inspected over the winter and dropped back in for this year. It shifts like butter....

795 series pistons. To be honest...without knowing your port layout/timing and durations as they are setup for a stock stroke, it's impossible to tell you how it's going to run with a 4 mil crank. It'll run. Could run very well...could also run the same or worse with a 4 mil and you'd have wasted your money. At the very least, get a degree wheel and measure where the exhaust, transfers and intake open up...and talk to whomever ported your cylinder, they can tell you what to expect.

A 4 mil crank is drop in, no case work required. Port Timing. In Simplest terms... When you increase the stroke of a motor, you're changing the timing of the piston sucking fuel/air in and letting burnt exhaust out. It'll run as is. But to get the most out of a 4 mil crank, the porting needs to be matched to the longer stroke. Keep in mind when you add stroke to the motor, the compression raises also. A 20 cc dome on a stock stroke might yield 150 to 160 PSI, that same dome on a 4 mil could put it in the 170 to 180 ball park. Just food for thought.

If you're going to race 300 feet on flat ground 6 over swingarm is not ideal. Add a few paddles (at your weight, 12 paddle extremes) and gear it 15/43 to start with, leave in second.... Put more carb on it. Do you have a lockup, override, etc? If you just wanna play with 300 foot, I understand. If you want to get more serious about drag racing, override and lockup are the only way to go...(If you already have them great, but you mentioned it's a duner...so, wasn't sure)

My buddies ran a standard, X ring and Oring chain on the dyno...no difference in HP output. I don't buy the heavier chain is slower thing. It just costs more....

I disagree. Sidewinder chains are junk, know several people that have snapped them...and they're about the most epensive out. Regina makes nice chains. For Mud and water, I'd get an X Ring, for sand riding, I'd get a standard chain...light coat of WD 40 on it and you're good.

Keep what you have.

Or if you're building a stroker motor....

They don't have 795 series pistons bigger than 66mm (.080) You'll need a big bore blaster piston for that. You'll need big bore sleeves for it and domes cut for the big bore AND stroker crank. To be honest...the big bore kit and sleeves would be a waste of money... Unless you personally have the knowledge and resources to heat up and install the sleeves, re-match the porting done... The cost would be not worth it. In my opinion, get the correct size 795 series piston for your current bore and get a set of domes cut for a 4 mil stroker (the domes will have 2mm recess cut into them to run the piston into the head) Now....the porting SHOULD be matched for the 4 mil stroker crank durations..... Before aftermarket cylinders were available...this is pretty much all you could do. Now...with the abundance of cylinders available cast with bigger pistons...it's just so much easier to buy the cylinder with the casting for your chosen crank.

Gearing is like picking the right woman...damn near impossible. Let me give you an example. You get gearing ratio by diving the rear sprocket teeth by the front. On my bike, I always ran 16/45. This is on a 10 mil cub, 300 foot only, and I'm 250 lbs. I have a 1-5 override, but I only use 2-5 for 300 foot. That's all you need. The higher the number for the ratio, the less top and more out of the hole you will have. 16/45 is 2.81 I've been trying for better 60 foot times. I lowered my gearing to 15/44. 15/44 is 2.9333 I ran the same times as above, (E.T.) but my MPH was 3-4MPH slower. So I switched, I went to 16/47 (I don't have a 46 rear sprocket, need one) 16/47 is 2.9374 Going to 16/47, essentially the same gear as a 15/44...yielded different results at the same track. Same ETs as before a little better 60 foots and my MPH is back up to where it should be. So...just because it looks good on paper, try it at the track. You'd be surprised with the results. Each bike is different, try something radically different...it might work.

If you're running pump gas, 32:1, race gas (leaded) 40:1. From the sounds of things, I don't think it was a jetting problem...I think it was running out of fuel...to be honest.