dajogejr

I can tell you this from personal experience with and without running a bar. You can run good times without a bar...but you will never do it consistently on a track and use the power the motor has to offer. When the wheels get so far in the air...you're either letting out or losing time...or both. Having a bar back there is insurance to let it fly and hang on.

You get what you see in the pics. Selling for a friend. Includes plastic, seat, radiator and aluminum fuel cell. 12 over swinger out back with wheelie bar mount. 2500.00 plus shipping.

FRAGNABBIT!!!!

For Drag Racing, X5 on the 1-5 N down dunable. No override, dunable included...should be excessively backloaded. The only tranny on the market that claims to be able to handle all the abuse is the "Extreme Transmission" from WCR....and as I've said before, they're relatively new to the market and I like to see something in action for a while before I say yeah or ney on it (for me personally, that's all) There are a few tricks that help it shift a little better...but once you get to a certain point, override is the way to go. Since you said drag bike, there is no use talking about another way to cut the tranny. You're losing time with any tranny other than an override. You need to plan on a lockup as well...so figure that into your pricing. If your bike is making enough power to give you shifting fits, adding an override will only show the weakness of the clutch sooner or later.

If Money wasn't an issue, I'd take the 4mm DM. There is more case work for a DM due to the bigger bore. That's assuming you're going to mod stock cases. If you got tired of the 4 mil DM....you could upgrade to a 10 mil much easier with crank trenching....(of course cylinder and crank replacement as well) The majority of the work would be done to accommodate the bore already. This is the second time I've see you mention 12mm cub. It's just an oddball setup...and keep in mind it'll be harder to find parts for it should something go south.

Very impressive. It should be in the 79 to 84 MPH range. All depends how well it 60 foots and how many paddles. ET is only one piece of the puzzle. A 4 mil running 3.80 is impressive! I run 4.20s on mine (250lb rider) and average 76MPH to 78 on a good run...

Did you check the surface of the deck and the head/shell/domes for flatness? Did the head go on pretty smooth or did you have to beat the bejesus out of it? A bent stud can make installation a pain...and can make an oring fall out of the groove. The outer edge Orings tend to walk out more on me because of the sharp bends...

It's not that simple to just get 100HP out of a 4 mil cub. Can it be done? Sure...but not "fairly easy". What are the guys with 12 mil cubs racing? There's a reason you have cc classes in racing. The most organized sand/dirt racing sanction has a 0-475cc class. the 12 cubs are just over that at 479 ccs. The next class is 550cc... Dynos are good for tuning...that's it. A smart man here said when a dyno passes me on the track then I'll worry about it's numbers.

Stock stroke, 4 mil, 7 mil, 10 mil and 14 mil are the common castings. Then you have stock rod length, 115 and 120 rods. 12 mil is odd...but of course it could be built. Unless you came up with a STEAL on one or you were building a purpose built bike for a certain cc class and the 12 mil put you at the limit of the class...a 10 mil would be financially better. I'd say 10 or 12 mil. In a properly tuned setup and ported by a pro, on methanol you could see 115 to 125HP... Again, depending on the dyno, etc. You'll never see two dynos pull the same number... I won't even comment on track times. That varies even more than the dyno HP numbers.

Something to think about. Since you are going to have to have the cylinder off anyways, take the studs out, find some 800 to 1000 grit wet/dry sand paper and a flat surface. Hit the deck of the cylinder and the head with the domes in it. Just lightly...figure 8, for 4-5 seconds. Make sure the whole surface of the deck (top of cylinder) and head get scratched up...so you know they're flat and will seal. I know you said the bottom...just something else to double check once you have it apart. The pipe thread plugs on bottom need to be just past flush in the cylinder. I always use some thread sealant on mine...or RTV. Those are pretty coarse threads... More a piece of mind thing. I use RTV for the Orings in the head. I just put a dab on my fingers and put a thin/sticky coat on the whole Oring. Put spark plugs in the domes so you have good handles when lowering the head onto the motor.

Since you live in MI...yes. It can go from 90s to 20s...and if you ride year round, it will help you from having to pull the carbs and putting different (richer for cold, and vice versa) main jets in. Usually, if you don't change mods, you can get enough adjustment out of the air screw for the pilot circuit for warm to cold weather. Any simple power jet will work. It's really not needed on gas...but if you're too lazy (myself included) to change jets on a carb when temps change, these are a good idea.

White smoke is not good...that's water/coolant. Blue smoke is ok, that's the premix in the fuel burning. You see drag bikes smoking considerably more because the majority of them run on methanol. You have to run twice as much methanol as you do gas, and a lot of guys run more oil in methanol. As said...if you warped the head and/or cylinders...a gasket alone will not fix that. You'll have to check for flatness on a surface plate. Several ways to check...I like the old fine grit sand paper and a surface plate however. You'd be amazed how uneven a gasket surface can be after using one. Antifreeze/coolant has a sweet smell to it and your plugs will look clean. Antifreeze/coolant will also "wash" the oil off the walls. I'd suggest you figure out which it is quickly before more/any damage occurs.

Ok...let me give you a PERFECTLY good reason to buy a used frame and title that is 100% clear. Insurance. If you have a custom built frame with no VIN...how are you going to insure it? As long as the title is clean and clear (and with Minkia I'm certain it is...I've been dealing with him for YEARS).. You tell an insurance company this is what the bike started out as, now it's a show quality bike. Try insuring a 99 banshee for actual replacement cost if you have 15K in it...you'll get blue book, maybe 2K. If you build a chrome, polished and powder coated drag bike, hill climber, etc... and then dump 10 to 20 K into it (I can name PLENTY who have) try to insure it for that much. A clean VIN/Title is a place to start. ESPECIALLY if you have a custom frame. Yes, I know you can go down to the DMV (Secretary of state) and get a VIN issued. Try that. Then it's even harder to get adequate insurance on it. You guys should probably do a little homework before you go accusing a member of pulling a sham or trying to scam someone. I'm sure minkia has been around this site longer than most of you...myself included.

There you go...you won't find on much cheaper that is trued and welded...and Hilarious is as reputable as they come. It might have something to do with his name...though. Those Dave Germain guys are one of a king...

Hit up Kevin @ HJR or Jeff @ FAST. I'm sure they take plenty of stock motors and put 4 mil strokers in them...leaving a left over stock crank. Either one can true and weld a stocker for you.... I'm sure a fellow member having a 4 mil built would like to help out a fellow HQer while not having to go through selling a crank on forums, ebay or craigslist...

Yep...I saw the cleaned up picture. I still see rust on the bearing and all over the webs. Pitch it. I know you're on a budget...we all are...but if you think a used crank costs a few bucks now, let that rusty boat anchor lock up in a motor. That'll be expensive...!! Obviously no one can spend your money but you, but my old friend always says... You can go broke saving money!

If there's rust on the surface, rest assured other areas like bearings or bearing surfaces are rusted or pitted. If it was a bit, stroker crank I'd try to save it. Stock cranks are a dime a dozen...and you already got a bangin' deal on the motor. Pick up a good stock crank that is trued and welded...or a good stocker and have it welded. I would hang that on the wall in the garage as a show piece from the Titanic that you've rescued...it's not worth running it IMO.

Even better. I can offer them a fully green, natural approach towards fertilizer. No synthetic chemicals, just good old fashioned shit. I can probably alter my food and drink intake now and then to achieve different viscosity (they'll love that) as well as color. And every year, just after St. Patty's Day I can offer them a limited edition liquid green fertilizer. I knew there was a great reason to drink green beer. The fertilizer with corn and peanuts will be offered at a premium, however... Sorry to get so far off topic guys, just having some fun.

Anyone in petroleum products is doing good. I'm glad to know they're in fertilizers....my offer stands. If they want to send me empty bottles to take a shit in, I will. Just think of all the Bud Light plants and cheeseburgers that will start popping up in crops....maybe even a donut or two.... I think we have another money maker.

If you consider people being sheep about buying their product...then yes, it is in fact genius. Show me one petroleum, oil, fuel etc. company now that isn't raking in the dough... From Exxon/Mobil to klotz....they are all making amazing profit...some of them record profits quarterly when the economy all over is in the dumps. People still gotta buy fuel, oil, etc., to maintain their vehicles, be it truck, car, bike, boat, etc.

In my opinion, that's not marketing genius. That's called sales desperation. When everyone can easily get dealer pricing and dealer status, what's the point of having a retail pricing point? In my eyes, if everyone is a dealer for a product they have less credibility. Again, just my opinion...

Those Dave Moore PJs flow some fuel. I would start with .120 mains and dumps, 55 pilot and EEL or EGL needle. Crank the PJs to wide open, on the DMR PJs I think that's 7 or 8 turns (been a couple years since I had mine) Also...set the timing at 7 degrees to begin with. Lastly...make sure you have the fuel delivery system setup (dual fuel valve, gutted and drilled gas cap, etc.) Those are some real, REAL general guidelines. By no means am I a pro Alky tuner or do I play one on TV... Keep in mind Rotax, once you drill those dump tubes on the Keihin, you can not put them back on gas. Keihin do not have replaceable dump tubes (also called emulsion tubes)

Shayne lives in the sticks...and you can't just go down to Uncle Ed's Tire and Fishing Tackle store to get pre-mix. Us city dwellers have more options...

Actually Shayne I just go see my good friend Rich at Richards Auto parts. It supports a local MI business and my good friend as well! He stocks all our fuel, oil and spark plugs. He is also a Marshall distributor for other stuff. I know he carries redline oil for cars. I should ask him about 2 stroke premix.

Not that I know of or have ever heard of. Even if they did...I'd rather dump the bottle out and piss in it...