dajogejr

Yeah, I'm really not trying to sound like a dickwad, just trying to be honest, you'll really love some T5 pipes. I've seen used ones go from 200 to 350 bucks in great shape. YOU really need to comb the classified on this site and the 2 stroke classified on planetsand.com.. I promise you can find a good deal on them, and not have to worry about fleabay scammers.....

This man knows exactly what he's talking about.... Taboo and rumors really describe an override...to be honest. A standard, run of the mill override is upshifting without the clutch in the cut gears, but...you need to pull in the clutch when you're not on the gas. In other words, the motor needs to push the bike. This is the standard in any drag race bike, period. You don't have to come to a complete stop, but...you really ought to slow down with teh clutch in to downshift.... If you let off the gas too many times without pulling in the clutch, you'll bend a shift fork and damage the tranny.... Dunable is a new breed. Upshift without pulling in the clutch, use the clutch, don't use it. badassbanshee has a dunable, along with quite a few others on here. It was explained to him you don't want to really leave it in gear to slow the bike down...but, it's much much more forgiving than a standard override. Hence the name "Dunable" or "Trail" override... Standard Overrides have been around forever. I think it's pretty safe to say, dunables have not been around nearly as long...and their long term use is still a small question mark.... There are a TON of people that can make an override tranny (not nearly as many make the dunable)... however, just like anything else...a handful of them make them very well.... That about sum it up..alky?

Completely understand...however, you're still choking that motor with stock pipes, I don't care how good the port is, how much it cost, or who did it. Take a piece of cellophane, poke 5 or 6 pinholes in it, take a nice, easy breath....then place it over your mouth and try to blow through it. Next, take that same piece of cellophane, then take a deep, deep breath, and try to blow through it again.... See what I'm getting at. You're trying to get more air/fuel in efficiently, but you're seriously being restricted by stock pipes.... Money is money...and I can surely appreciate the value of a dollar. We're just trying to tell you porting, no matter what kind or cost, it counter productive with those stock cans....that's all!!!

Turning the air screw ONLY effects off idle to 1/8 throttle or so. It will do nothing for more than 1/8 throttle, which...I'd go out on a limb and say is where you're gonna spend most of the time at Silver Lake.... My bike was jetted perfectly for Standish area I was riding in, but was just a HAIR lean at Silver Lake... If your bike was properly jetted before when it was warm out, I'd say jump up a size...MAYBE two sizes on the main. Main jets are only 3 or 4 bucks.... I know you're a college student, and money is tight...but, if 10 to 20 bucks is gonna kill you, you might have gotten into the wrong sport...and possibly the wrong quad for that matter. 20 bucks in jets is much cheaper and easier than a fresh top end because it leaned out... We're all coming to the dunes last weekend of October, my bike pic is in my sig. If you can make it out, look for us, probably be on the drag strip, of course, most of the time.... I'm Dave....

IF the gas was pretty fresh a few weeks ago, that's not your problem. If you told me it was a few months old, then...yeah, I'd try fresh gas. To be honest, it probably wouldn't hurt to put fresh gas in...but, I don't think that'll solve the problem. Throw fresh plugs in too...

Both screws should be identical. Before you tapped the holes, did you file down that boss? It has to be filed down so the nut locks against it flush...and often times you have to take a bit more off so the thread has enough reach. Remove the idle screws, remove the air filter(s)...and look in the back of the carbs.... You should see the slides moving up once the bullet nose and slide make contact. See if it is even raising them. The adjusters on top are ONLY to syncronize the slides going up and down at the same time. The adjuster on the cable at the throttle housing is used to remove slack, (you should have a tad of slack for turning the bars lock to lock)... I'd bet if you file down the bosses on the carbs, you'll get the adjustment you need out of the idle screws....

You forgot the single biggest factor of one vs. the other stock vs. stock. The chassis and suspension on any of the new breed of 450's is leaps and bounds over a 20 year old suspension and chassis design.... You can easily ride the 450 longer and easier than a banshee. Period. I too would get the 450 for your riding. Yes, the maintenance costs vs. intervals does weigh pretty evenly now a days vs. a two stroke top end...

Braxton... 87 to 94, same 95 to 96, same 97 to current, same.... I got caught with a 96...that's how I'm sure about that....

They're the same dome, as long as they're stock bore AND Stock Stroke....

Ok...got it. That's basically a cleanup port...or real real mild port job. Check your compression...you're in MI with me...I'd bet you don't have to run race gas with that setup. Compression has more to do with the need for race gas than a slight timing advance such as that. A complete kit from Magic Racing (In MI too) is only 160...and that includes gaskets, wrist pins, bearings, etc...everything. Gotta do what ya gotta do, got it. I'd bet you could save money on race/pump gas as long as your compression is much over 145 to 150 lbs, IF your bike is jetted correctly!

Hey...Kai...where ya been? Good to see ya... Honestly, if you pickup Shearer inframes, you don't need to worry. Their design is fantastic...they go up and over the back of the carbs, the air filters, etc. It's such a nice design it's almost scary.... I don't know what your price range is, but usually CPIs are MORE than inframe Shearers. Here's a little taste of Jeff's website, just up, and he's got a pretty darned good price on inframe shearers. http://www.farmandsandtoys.com/partdetail.asp?partid=133

This is a stupid question, but try brand new spark plugs. You might have let those ones idle too long, jetting may be off, and you might have fouled 'em out.... How long has the bike been sitting? Is it possible it has old gas in it?

That's where they machine or grind the upper half of the cases to match air/fuel flow into the transfer ports on the cylinders. From the factory they don't normally match. Just another little builder trick... I matched my own cases with a big bore base gasket as a stencil (68mm bore cub), and a dremel tool...doesn't take long at all, but, kinda pointless if the cylinders themselves aren't matched.

What's even funnier Travis is the group of us who know EXACTLY what that means... :laugh:

I gotta be honest, when I bought my cub motor from Jeff, he literally smoked all other competition for his pricing... I don't know how much more he can discount parts. (Jeff's gotta eat...ok, we'll leave that one alone, Jeff...) Just remember, FBT cost money....

Couple of things.... What temps and elevation do you ride at? I'd almost bet you're wasting your money on 110 race gas when all you might need is premium pump gas... Depends on your compression....but, I think you can save money...to be honest. Has it been bored before? If not...you're wasting two good bores, doesn't matter how good that .040 deal is, you're missing on .020 and .030....longer lives ya know. Lastly, what TYPE of riding do you do? If you trail ride and occasionally dune and drag, I agree, a single 35PWK will do you nicely and ease maintenance, tuning.... But, if you're more duning and drag racing, you'll want a pair of 33s or 35's.... You say case match the porting...but, is he porting the cylinders as well? If not, case match is kinda a waste too. You'll get 1-3HP by case matching, you can get 10, 20 or 30 out of a good port job. Just trying to cover all the bases.... :beer:

My CDI is cracked too....and I thought it was bad....it wasn't.... if you can find one with a newer style wire plug for it...give it a whirl.. 97 and newer are the same....

The guy who came out in a fur coat was just wrong...period. Killed me.... "It's not real fur...I just shaved Bea Aruthur's Back..."... Classic...

Clymers manual...should have it anyways.... It' really simple, just gotta make sure the carbs get sync'd up properly. Before you change the jetting, warm it up and do the plug chop ...that will tell you how the mains are. I think if you have 220's you'll be lean. I think you'll end up in the 250 to 260 range.... Here's the infamous plug chop: http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/plugchop.html

Got a spare CDI off my 96 you can try too...but, it's a different harness. Leakdown test it yet JT? Small enough air leak will cause it to break up in the higher RPMs, normally won't cause idle or lower RPM issues.... Start it up, remove the flywheel side cover, let it warm....and spray the piss out of the intakes, bottom of the jugs and in behind the flywheel with carb cleaner... If shee dies down a little....bingo.

First off....unless you're at like 5000ft above elevation, get that bike jetted right. With just pipes and a K&N Air Filter at or anywhere near sea level, you should be around 250 or so if you're still using the air box lid, 280 without. Since you trail ride, leave the air box on...but if you don't ride through too much water/mud, either drill some large holes in the airbox...or, get a pro-flow adapter and remove the lid all together.... Right now....again, depending on your elevation, pipes and a K&N FIlter with proper jettins will put you high 30's, low 40s on HP... These bikes only have 33 to 36HP out of the crate bone stock.

Once you add a killer motor like that, proper suspension setup, and a LOT of Chrome the 30K realm is not unheard of by any means. get your money out of it, though...'cause when it's time to tell it you'll get about half that. Don't get me wrong, good for you...if you got the coin to spend, by all means, do it!!! Don't even think any of those guys will be even close to seeing you again... However...as said, this isn't going to be a play bike. NOT Even close. It'll be drag and dunes only. You'd be crazy to go sloshing through mud, dirt and water with all the Chrome and Bling Cam's going to put on it. It hurst to think about how much I've put into mine....and I know the only way I'm getting my money out of it is to ride the piss out of it whenever I possibly can!! You're doing what's right for you....damn good for you. Post up some pics and ride reports when it's done....you'll be grinning ear to ear for quite some time. (Oh...and a golden rule of thumb. Don't let your buddies ride it unless they can afford to buy it...) :thumbsup:

See what I mean.... :biggrin: These guys are Die-Hards....all there is to it. :thumbsup:

I think Red will agree...in the perfect world, you'd have two quads.... (ok, you'd have 30 quads...one for every day of the month...) But, in all seriousness... If you plan on trail riding a lot, get the 450R. Despite all the diehards here, They are great machines...especially for the trails. All you need is a pipe, air filter, cam and jetting...and they're a blast, reliable...and you can pull up to the pump and fill it up. If you wanna drag race, dune...or go real fast for cheap, the shee is the way to go. Yep, you can drag race 'em, dune 'em, etc., but...there's nothing like a built shee for SHEER speed. Because I've made my shee a drag race/dune style bike, I miss out on a few trips with friends that like to ride 40 + mile trail loops in upper MI and the UP. My Shee is simply NOT a trail bike, period. Red said it best, too much of the wrong kind of power for trails. However, end of this year or beginning of next, I'll be in the market for a stock or near stockish 4 stroke so I can have both worlds. A Great trail machine and my dune/drag bike for flat out hauling the mail. I know, I know...you can MAKE a shee a good trail machine...but you could make Rocky a world class chess player too. It would end up being more hassle, time, trouble and money that what it is worth....not to mention out of the box factory stock, the 450 is leaps and bounds better at trails than a shee. Shit, I'm even thinking about getting a utility quad, they're pretty fast now, big racks to haul/knock over stuff...AND 4WD with big mud flaps to keep you dry....hmmm....

I'm sure you already knew this...but, I think you wasted your money on porting before pipes....period. Do a plug chop to dial in your main. You did the work to get air/fuel into your motor more efficiently with your porting....but, then you put the clamped down vice on the motor by leaving the stock pipes.... http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/plugchop.html