dajogejr

I had an old LT250R with a twist...and it never bothered me. It was done up, ported, exhaust, Pod filter, bigger carb, etc. The power delivery of a 250 and a banshee are nothing alike. What makes a twist a bad idea is the lightswitch nature of a banshee powerband. Seeing as how this is your first fourwheeler, and it's a banshee at that, I think a thumb throttle will serve you better. Of course, that means a new cable too. I rode CR dirt bikes for a long time, put a twist on my shee two years ago when I had similar mods as you, and It lasted about 2 rides (and a bent grab bar courtesy of my buddy) and it was off and a thumb put back on. Swapping it out is not a big deal, just a pain to take the plastics and tank off....that's harder than actually swapping the cable in my opinion....

It is standard procedure to warm an engine to check compression...normally you'll see a few PSI higher when warm. Keep in mind also...if the threads on the tester are not as long as the threads on the spark plug, you'll show a few PSI lower, too...you're not filling all the volume in the chamber that a spark plug would. That being said...yeah, it's top end time. I'm sure it'll run fine for a little while.... Depending on clearances when you get it all apart, it might need a hone and re-ring, might need a fresh bore and pistons/rings. Where does it seem to be leaking coolant from?

Yeah, the cable and software are another 100 bucks, and you need a dyno OR a lot of room to ride to see if the adjusments you just made were better or worse. I'm going to check into that...I"m pretty sure they do....and you can program it to use a switch on the clutch, etc.... Yep...you're right. It's an item that you can by from Dyna that will work as a launch limiter and a switch on the clutch from Pingel. From Dyna, the launch limiter is part number # DRL300 Sorry for the confuse...

On your bike with mods in your sig, none...you have other stuff to buy before a $300 ignition. Once you start to get into heavy mods, being able to adjust your timing...or program it for that matter, becomes a nice feature. IF you get into heavy drag racing, a tach output, launch limiter, and stuff like that is nice to have too.

Sorry...my buddy was lazy in cleaning it. Plus, it's about 10 degrees or so here in SE MI, so...he didn't want it all to freeze on there, either....just needs a little cleaning...it's solid and straight bike, though....

Fresh Pictures

Fresh gas and plugs always help.

Someone can very easily cut the domes you have. Hell...PM Bigred350X, he might do it for you... Plenty others on here will as well.

Welcome to the madness. There should be numbers on the rods....start there.

Free Bump...this is a good deal and Tommy is a great guy to deal with.... He's new here to BHQ...but a regular on PS. A great fellow racer....which I will personally vouch for. Here's some pics.

Uh...not this guy. But I am an equal opportunity sand rooster, come one come all....balls to the wall...(or, in this case...covered in sand...) LOL>....

WHOAA...for that much money, I'll fill each tire with SLIME....heck with that....

Hey...any one that is that big of a fanatic of their own AND their builder's balls...hey, that's gotta say something. As long as he didn't play with his builder's balls...it's all good.

Man...that's great news T. It's only getting colder.... Free Bumpski TTT....

True enough!!! Plus...I know you race on pavement, very unforgiving and a bar is a must. I'm going to be running a LOT of paddle and a LONG arm...and see how it works out for me. Got my 14 paddles last weekend, gonna be getting my 14 over arm soon. You and I are big buys, Travis...so, traction shouldn't be a problem....Plus, I'm building a little bigger motor, too!!! My buddy always builds 10 mils with 14 over, 14 paddles, just a combo that has always proven to work for him.

Yep... If the arrows don't line up properly prior to putting the side cover, the adjustment at the cable end does you no good. Put slack in the cable, push the clutch arm with your hand. The arrows should line up just as you feel resistance and can't push it by hand anymore (note I said by hand, not with help of pliers, prybar, etc.) If they line up...then adjust it at the lever. For a cold motor, I always leave about a 1/8 inch gap where the lever meets the perch until it starts to disengage. If you're beating on it, you might get more play...so, tighten as needed...but check it often.

blue...sorry this is off topic. PM me your email address, and I will send you a quick, short Word Document on how to easily resize AND post pictures....

Can you guys post a link as to WTF you're talking about??? You guys really seem into your balls.... :biggrin:

Mid to top won't be your pilot...but, if you need your air screw out that far, you could lean out your pilot size by one, no big deal if you don't. Try the needle(s) wes suggested, then try different clips...

. i had less in my cheetah that i did my trail banshee, and the trail bike was bored, stroked, in frame drag pipes, the works, and i had a lot more in it and it was a lot slower than the cheetah bike Yeah....another full blown drag style bike riding trails, this guy's a real sharp one. Probably put thousands into the motor and riding on stock tires and shocks.... I just don't get some people....

Ha ha... Sorry Roger...before the banshees, I was a Honda CR Dirt Bike guy. 93, 94 and pair of 97's over a 8 year period. It tis what it tis....was never very clever with screen names, hence my hacked up one!!! Been meaning to PM you anyways, see how things are gonig...if you've had any ice time, etc.... IN fact, will do that now!

Cool...if it runs strong with the air screws turned in that far...you will need to bump up the pilot one.... Might have to go back down in warmer weather....

Pull off the clutch side of the motor, and get a clymers. It will tell you how to properly adjust the shifter. If it's close or in adjustment, yep...case splitting time to check for worn or broken parts.

Good to know, Brad...just didn't know if you missed it or not. In my experience...a cub likes a leaner pilot but fatter main than the OEM ported cylinders. But...he's got an air box and it's 20 degrees out, so...they sort of cancel each other out. If you have 55 pilots in there now, try turning the air screws all the way in. Turn each one out 1/4 to 1/2 turn. If this solves the "hanging idle" and makes off idle response better...yeah, fatter pilot. Also, make sure you throttle cable/throttle housing is lubed and kink free...just to be sure!! I'd take it for a ride under load though...free revving in nuetral/clutch pulled in is not the way to adjust the carbs, the bike needs to be loaded up....or under load I should say... Good luck!! :thumbsup:

He has OEM cylinders....Brad.