dajogejr

Get your stockers ported. More power than you need right now there, and cheaper.

Do NOT crank down on that tie down strap, just snug it. You want to expand the tire, NOT crush it. Remove the valve stem core to get more air in quicker, too... I think it took about 35 or 40 PSI to seat my holeshots, and they are 6 ply as well...

Yep, paid membership. 30 bucks a year, I believe. Once you're in, Just ask RNBRAD, that guy lives there i believe....LOL.

I believe I have 48 or 46 picks in my rear tires, the guy I bought them off of used them in either a 4 mil or 10 mil cub drag bike, and they were plenty. You could probably cut the amount of picks in half unless you're turning some BIG numbers...

Actually...with a lockup clutch, many people use stock springs for a lighter pull at the lever. The lockup plate does the work via weights and centrifugal force as it's spinning.... This guy didn't mention a lockup, though.... :thumbsup:

With 96 picks, your bike isn't spinning at ALL. You should be able to launch in second with 13tooth front, however, dumping the clutch rather than feeding it out will cause it to bog. Banshees like a to spin a little to get the R's up. 96 picks are digging in, period. Learn how to slip out the clutch at a high RPM instead of just dumping it.

Get a leak down tester. Uneven surfaces you can't see by eye, with or without new gaskets and properly torqued studs will still leak...and can leak bad.

Yep...plan on it. Funny how 3 drivers are already gonna be fined for cheating, not exactly a good start for Toyota in their first run.... Let's face it...these Crew Chiefs know what they're doing. They're not playing tiddlywinks... It's all about pushing the rules before you get caught, that's all... I'd like to see Jr. win, but I think the 20 is gonna take it. Jr. is my favorite driver....but I just don't see him winning a championship any time soon, if at all. Lucky for him, sponsor $$ and Budweiser will follow him anywhere he goes based on his name alone!

Is it blubbery off idle, in the middle, top RPMs, or all over. Jetting does sound a bit rich all over.

Braxton has fixed this situation. He paypaled me the money today... However...as I told him in PMs. If he's going to be in this trade/parts swapping game, he either needs to be more upfront about how long items are going to take....or be quicker to respond and/or send parts. It was never about the money, it was the whole point and the waiting....

Hell yes, throw some timing on her and let it rip. Did you get an override tranny too, or JUST a lockup? Very similar to my old 4mil, but I had 35PWKs. You're gonna love that bike! With a 6 over, it's gonna be fun.... I heat cycled mine a few times, a couple rips on it, and straight to the dyno....and just beat the tar out of it all year.

FAST clutch. Ran it all year on my stock motor, piped, jetted, timing in 05. Beat on it all year in my 4 mil cub, and I'm using the same clutch in my 10 mil cub alky drag bike I'm in the process of building. It is still in excellent shape, and I don't cut corners on anything, if I needed a clutch, I would buy it. What's 90 or 100 bucks compared to the thousands you spend on a motor, frame, setup, etc. If you have a stock bike, use stock springs, if you have mild mods (bolt ons) use 3HD springs and 3 stockers. If you have a wild ported, snorting ride, use all 6 HD springs.

Last I checked...he put it at 0 timing and it still didn't run.... However...just to ease the mind of others, put it at 0 timing AGAIN... That's not your problem, but just to make others happy. I don't think there is a thread on here to check squish. But, I agree with Wes, that bike should at least attempt to start. DId you check the pickup gap and make sure the flywheel key didn't shear?

Pipes, pods and porting a 340 main is just fine. It's a good starting point... The pilots should be fine as well, however, fatty's like fat pilots. a 30 might be needed. Have you removed the air screws and cleaned those passages as well?

I have a magnum basket from FAST Racing I bought last year, I assure you it doesn't say Banshee on it http://www.farmandsandtoys.com/partdetail.asp?partid=39

are you talking about your banshee or your LT250R? Good insurance on a banshee....and don't kid yourself, I've read of several stock motors with just some pipes causing the crank to separate. If you ask one of the guys on here, he'll tell you if you jump alot you need to have it welded :: Sorry...had to throw that in there. Good idea....good insurance...just "in case shit happens". Hard to say what kind of damage it can cause. Least case, you'll need a new crank, bearings, and possibly save the top end. Could mean pistons, bore...new head/remachine the old head. Crap shoot for sure.

The stock setup is prone to being out of alignment, so...when that happens, it can/will pull to one side or the other. You'll notice anybody that buys an aftermarket arm normally gets a round house carrier. Literally 1000% easier and quicker to adjust. There are two through bolts to loosen, and the two adjusters on the back of the carrier that push against the swingarm them selves. The upper bolt (Pivot) in the carrier is a 17mm on both ends, bolt and nut. The lower bolt (slide or swing bolt) is a 17mm on the bolt head side, 14mm on the nut side. (Funny...I can't remember how to do a math problem from high school, but I know bolt/nut sizes...sheesh) Loosen both of those. Then...you have the two adjusters on back. The lock nut is a 12mm and the bolt head you turn is a 10mm. The factory slides have notches in them to line up...they are good for ball park. I'd get it as close to even as you possibly can, using my method to get it dead on. You bascially loosen or tighten the back bolts to tighten/loosen the chain. LOCK the adjusters down, lock the swing bolt down (bottom bolt) lock the top pivot bolt down. Check it all again. Or...you could simply get a clymers manual (which...is the banshee bible, GOT TO HAVE IT...) Turn to page 63 and start reading!! With pictures of course! Yeah....I'm so glad my new drag arm will be a round house....it's not even funny!!!

To be honest, you're wasting time trying any thing else other than checking it for leaks and checking squish. I went through ALL of this when I bought my 4 mil. You might think it's a direct bolt on, it's not. My top and bottom of my brand new cylinder were both uneven, and both had to be blocked (flattened) After that...it purred! Solder is the stuff you use for wires and electronic parts, with a soldering iron...kinda melt it to tie wires and electronics to circuit boards. My bike actually started, idled perfectly, etc. If you sprayed carb cleaner around the left base side, it would die out. Plus....there was a dip in the middle of the cylinder due to the sand blasting finish by Millenium after the cylinders were nikasiled.... Here's your leak down thread...how hard did you search? http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?...c=49835&hl= PM Machwon on here. he sells a relatively inexpensive leak down kit...if you don't have the time and/or resources to make your own...

Nice to know, boys...appreciate the tip. Just thought for the price and new O Rings it was a good deal..

Here's how I adjust mine. Get a tie down and strap it to the bumper and axle carrier (ratcheting type work best for this) Get the front sprocket, swing arm pivot and rear axle all in a straight line. Yeah, you're going to compress that shock quite a bit. Tighten it down to where you'll have 1/4 to 1/2 inch of play in the middle.... Never had a problem that way. Also, check the alignment. Hopefully you have a true/straight frame. Pick a spot on each side, measure center of the axle to that spot...and make sure the chain is aligned even. Lastly, you're using a top and bottom roller and chain stay/guide out back, right?

PM Dr. Q on Planet Sand. That guys knows more about those old zuki motors than possibly anyone alive. I'm sure he could give you whatever spec you need, be it 500 or 250...as well as an aftermarket head source...or how to make yours that much better.

First off, remove the TORS. Second....how do you know you don't have any leaks? The 60 or so dollars it costs for a new cable, caps and drill/tap/idle screws is well worth it. See if the carbs are in sync...or opening/closing at the same time. Completely remove and clean out both carbs, removing ALL brass and using a fine wire (speaker wire works great) to clean all the holes, and compressed air. Now...for the dumb questions. Did you put the right slides in the right carbs? The cutaway should face the back in each carb. Did you connect the choke tube back together on each carb? Did you put the correct float bowl on the correct carb? I know they sound dumb...you'd be surprised how many times those three things come into play!! Even if you think you're sure, double check anyway. The first two would cause symptoms EXACTLY like you are stating....

http://www.magicracing.com/FMF-Pipe-Spring...p_254-1126.html

Beat me to it JT and Mike. You should only have to turn your plugs 1/8 to 1/4 turn once contact is made, either the threads are stripped out...or, you are getting detonation. What is done to the rest of the bike? Timing advance, higher compression? What type of fuel are you using, and what is your jetting at?

Stock throttle cable that was designed for TORS will not work. Buy a new one, they are around 20 bucks...just get a stock cable for use WITHOUT the TORS. Intakes are 50 bucks used, or 89 bucks new. http://www.vitosperformance.com/atv_parts/...=176&page=1