dajogejr

I didn't throw Hughes down for his age. He hasn't beaten an impressive opponent in a while, and his style is boring to watch and won't beat any of the top or near top fighters now a day. They are too good for lay and pray that he works off of.

Fucking awesome... Not only cool runs (F that jumping AND turning shit...lol) but GTFO of my way, my shit is rollin dirty and it's about to yard sale on this hill. Nice save Tyler, I would've done the same. Any damage to the bike at all from the couple rolls it took? (Obviously you're ok....must be because you're all tanned and Jacked!! ) Rofl...

I only ran 330s or so on my stock cylinder as well. A ported motor can pull more fuel thorough the same size jet if done right. (By more I don't mean amount per hole, I mean it will pull fuel earlier and later...meaning more volume) I don't know if I described that right...or worded it correctly.

I'm waiting on the serval cylinders as well...can't wait to see them. I do not know the pricing of them, but I'm going to assume they'll be in line with the smaller cubs (875ish or so) The advantages are you won't have to have a spacer or domes cut for a stroker and they will have better cooling capacity. There is the Nikasil/Cast iron debate. Both have plus and minus on them. You'll have to decide whether a 350 to 500 port job on your cylinders is worth it or buy a set with bigger pistons already ported is worth your time and money....

I thought you west coast tree huggers were against this kind of violence? Does Arny censor this stuff on TV? LOL...

I would say in his prime Hughes was tough to beat. But the days of his wrestling and crucifix ground and pound domination are over. The competition is just too good. I admit I only looked for the Silva/Sonnen fight yesterday morning, so I'm sure it's out there now. I watched a Dana interview, and he basically said if someone doesn't give an effort, I'll call them out...but if they fight like a champ and give the crowd/PPV buyers a good show, I'll be the first to commend them. Say what you want about Dana, love him or hate him...but he's got this sport and the brand on top the mountain for a long time coming.

Was that Brent's Trailer? WOW!!!!

I didn't watch the fight but I read the review on mmascraps. They had Sonnen easily ahead in the first 4 rounds and claimed he was putting a beat down on Silva. Do you guys that watched the fight concur? I used to really like watching Hughes fight, but I think despite his win, he needs to retire. He's boring as all hell to watch...

Sorry...just saw this. Believe it or not, I had 32.5 pilots on the dyno and 350 mains. Bike ran crisp...but I only went on one or two rides like that until I got my 35s and Shearer inframes. Wes...it was at DynoEdge in Clarkston MI. John Q's shop is the standard around here. Neal at Saber Racing literally has thousands of dyno runs there, and guys that get A&S, RDZ, etc. motors take them there to run 'em. He's not as open to the public as he was before, now it's more of a friend/word of mouth dyno, but he's still around. He is a more conservative dyno...I know Dan @A&S dyno read a little higher than DynoEdge. Here's the dyno chart from my 4 mil on gas, stock carbs and T5 pipes. Lane from Vito's was there when it made the pull, he couldnt' believe it. The pull that is all broken up is due to flywheel with broken magnets. It was all sealed up and it acted like that on the dyno. We took the flywheel off and it sounded like a salt shaker inside. Replaced it...and here you go.

Keeping in mind this...as well. Ever have an issue with one cylinder getting hotter than the other? Idle rough, start rough, etc.? This tool can help that as well. Not only can you use it for idle, but you can also use it to make sure the cable is pulling each slide up at the same time. Idle is controlled by the idle screw. The pull/sync is controlled by the carb top caps. I set idle first, then I pull the throttle 1/4 way or so and check each carb. Now...that being said, in comparison to a duner/trail rider, it is much more critical for them than a drag race guy. A drag racers blips the throttle a few times and holds it WOT till the end. As long as both carb opens all the way, you're good. But for the duner trail crowd, you'd be surprised how off you can be by eye. This tool is the shiznit....

I agree. I think we're saying the same thing, in different ways. My point was...take a stock motor, bone stock. You'll need more octane as a result of compression before you would for timing.... That's what I meant by icing on the cake for octane and timing. Detonation OR Preignition is a motor killer...2 stroke or 4!

Sleeper...did you have to change jetting or setup to go from R2s from Toomeys? My guess is the R2s opened up anywhere from 750 to 1K RPM for you over the T5s.

I agree...+4 and pump gas is a great mix on a stocker motor. If you start raising the compression in conjunction with timing...you may start needing more octane. Compression has more to do with the need for octane than timing does...in smaller doses (timing). Ultimately...compression ratio will dictate the need for octane and think of timing as icing on the cake. In addition to what TL said...higher compression and more timing create more heat, hence the need for higher octane. That being said...a degree key is not a bad idea. However, I'd spend a few more bucks and get a timing plate. You'll have the ability to advance the timing as you see fit. What if your motor likes 2 degrees...or 9 degrees...?

I've been a believer in FAST Jeff's clutch kit as well. I strayed from that for a season, and went right back to it. That being said...I know what kind of motors fouledout421 has had...and the Tusk, much to my amazement, has served him right as well. Either is a fine choice...however, seems you have a different problem. IF your issue is in fact the clutch...take it apart and inspect it. If you have a worn hub/pressure plate and/or basket, a brand new clutch by ANYONE will be garbage in no time. I know you're on a tight budget, we all are. But throwing good money after bad is not the answer either....

Trinity has had this type of plate for YEARS...it works fine. If you want a billet plate but don't want to pay the premium price for it, hit up our site sponsor Chariot. I have his plate and it is a nice, solid piece. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Banshee-6061-Billet-Adjustable-Stator-Timing-Plate-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQitemZ230478953507QQptZMotorsQ5fATVQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

1st I'd find out what HJR recommends for your port work, he can tell you what to expect from what pipe and make a recommendation on that. Second, find the stuff used in good shape. Pipes, as long as they're not mangled, can be jet hot coated, chromed, painted, PC'd, etc. Why buy new?

The second one had pictures and postings on it over on PS....I think that cat is definitely out of the bag. I like the idea of the serval. Dune/Trail friendly without having to take a set of stockers and have them ported, nikasil coated, etc. Andy, going to assume they'll be in the 65mm banshee piston and 68mm blaster piston variety as well? Great info...thanks for posting! The wompus has the bulging exhaust port hiding the triple ports though...gonna be hard to disguise that.

Andy, Before that thread got deleted, it seemed like it was going in the direction those cylinders have cub/super cub port layout and timings, BUT it looked like a factory cast cylinder (mainly, this was a street race, cheater type cylinder that is actually a monoblock) and it's meant to beat the Vitos' and RDZ cylinders. I originally thought they were going to be more trail/dune friendly cylinders with port timing that would accept a Fatty, T5 or other "less drag orientated" pipe, but from what I read on PS...that's not the case. I also read it will be available up to a 72mm bore, just like the supers, with super head stud locations. Did I read wrong?

Once you get into the 125 to 130HP range it's almost mandatory for a billet 2nd gear. They will break on launch. Once you get into the 175 to 180 HP range a full billet tranny is a good idea. I'm not going to say it's mandatory...but a good idea.

I won't sell you an override because of how you ride. My advice is call Kevin Herr and ask for his tranny mod that is not an override. There is no such thing as a trail friendly override, I don't care who cuts it or how it's done. Not even the WCR Extreme tranny is trail friendly in my opinion. The only override you can get with all 6 gears is the least friendly override you can get. You literally have to be at a 100% complete stop to even think about downshifting, or the trans will grenade. You specifically said two things...trail friendly and 6th gear. Sorry..no one cuts an override that will work for you in my opinion. There is a thread on here about the original "extreme" override transmissions. There were a lot of issues with them. They are supposedly fixed but it was a lot of heartache and they need to be proven to me for a year or so before I'd have any faith in them. You could clean up the drum and remove every other dog on the transmission gears to help it shift better, but it still will not be an override.... I don't sell overrides anymore, but if I did this would be a classic case, in my opinion...of a phone call from a broken override in 6 to 8 months.

Out of pure curiosity, (because I have Packard Lectrons) what did you have done and what was the bill, if you don't mind me asking. I'm thinking of sending mine to him after this season so he can to through them...for shits and giggles.

Get an override and get rid of the pro shift mod. You are beyond what a stock transmission can handle...

You claimed stock head squish was .068. Lop off .035 gives you .033. So...I will retract my statement. Lop off .033 to get your .035 squish. My point is if you are going to mill more than .020 you should have it done professionally, it should be milled and re chambered for your motor based on it's measurements.

We had experienced teachers and instructors/aides with years and years in the business watching over them...I'm pretty sure those old timers knew how to run a machine. Some of the instructors actually cut the parts because they just thought it was cool and different than the normal jobs/requests. You make is sound so simple..so anyone can just mill of .035...right? I didn't mean piston ring, I meant you could see a "ring" on the dome of the piston where it hit. If you can see the piston ring hitting the dome...I'd say you have other problems...like crown missing. Maybe we should've looked you up 15 years or so ago...you were probably a leader in the industry then, too...

Because I've made the mistakes you are preaching about... When I was in high school and didn't have the money we'd be in shop class F'in with things instead of working on lawn mowers and weed eaters. We'd go over to the machine shop and have them cut stuff up for us. What else was there to do in HS? We've taken stock heads and mill off .010 at first, then .020...and so on. And then we'd blow 'em up. Mind you...this was on stockers with pipes and our own clean up/hack port jobs, not on professionally ported motors, strokers, aftermarket cylindes. This was before overrides and lockups...and before the mainstream cast/billet cylinders. If you wanted a 4 mil, you ran a spacer plate or cut domes....or a 7 mil or 10 mil. There weren't cylinders cast for this kidna thing. We didn't know anything about rechambering heads, we just knew if you took X amount off you'd get more horsepower from the added compression. We'd grind our own OEM timing plates and guess. I was always pretty good with carbs...so I'd make sure they were tuned right. I'd be lying if I said they were perfect every time...but what setup is? We'd have different fuels and oils at our disposal (thanks to local vendors/shops for sponsoring the small engine program we had). We ran Turbo Blue back then, which I believe is 108 or 110 octane. Once we got past .025 they didn't last long. We'd bore 'em, replace the factory cast pistons with Wiseco forged...and do it again (thinking hey. the motor was worn...they were cast pistons. We're used to running forged pistons in our cars for NOS...so they must be better for a reason right? So we'd put forged in...and break them again. This was years ago, before digital cameras, Internet, etc. So obviously I have no picture proof, etc. Just my memories... And... All I did was have the machine shop at school lop the surface. NO chambering, etc. So, essentially...doing exactly what you said you've done...and we'd break pistons. You could actually see the ring on the piston where it came to close and hit the head...and the cranks were fine, by the way. I had no concept of chambering heads back then, no knowledge of dome design, rise, deck height, msv, etc. I just knew with a little bubble gum, duct tape, WD40 and elbow grease we could have some fun...and we broke shit more than we probably rode it. Is that good enough, or should I ask Macdizzy if they concur?