dajogejr

They are a trail and MX motor...LOL... I agree with you, in the fact it's all about your particular needs and setup. Every motor combo and it's needs are different. Bigger carbs don't always equal big performance...you need a motor that needs bigger carbs for them to work right, no doubt about it....

To be 100% honest, Toomey makes a fine pipe, there is no doubt to that at all. Outside of his little world of stock motor bikes....he doesn't know much IMO. Before I had my 35's and Shearers for my 4 mil cub, I asked him via email about his needle (dynojet needle) and where I should start the clip for my 4 mil cub. He said he doesn't know what a cub is.... So...that was a quick phone call.

Actually...he'll probably run one to the carbs, one to the NOS system... The juice is gonna be loose....

Ahhh...I see... I think I might have a fuel valve in my tool box @ the crib...I'll try to remember to grab you a measurement...

One cylinder isn't firing. One cylinder isn't getting fuel, spark...or has no compression. Start with fresh plugs. After that, clean the carbs out, since you already had them off. Check for compression if both those get ruled out....

716 lbs??? Yikes...better hope you ride it, not it rides you.... I wouldn't even want to change the spark plugs or anything else on that thing, I bet it's a MAJOR PITA to work on. But damn...I'd love to ride one!

I use 1/4 inch plumbing on my bike, Travis...from tank to pump, pump to carbs....and cylinder to pump. I think 3/8 will be too big/sloppy fit.

Next time...post it in only one forum instead of two....I don't know how to give better directions than this: http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=83748

On a side note...but not totally unrelated... I'm a firm believe in purging as well. I mix my meth and purge fuel with the SAME type of oil (very important) @ 28:1. I just popped a piston (a little deto from leaning out just a hair too little) and the lower of the motor looks awesome. No rust, bearings in great shape, plenty of oil on them.... I've seen what meth can do to a carb from letting it sit in them. Not only do I purge...I also remove and drain the carbs and clean them out once done purging... I use starting fluid or carb cleaner to spray everything inside the bowl out....I don't like to leave stupid things like that to chance....

Let's back up... Are you using fresh gas, fresh oil...mixed at a normal ratio? (28 to 1 up to 40 to 1)?? Fresh spark plugs? Are you sure the bike has good spark? Without good spark, it really doesn't matter what jets you choose...it'll run like poop. Do you have the carbs slides in correctly? The half moon cutout on the slide should be on the airbox side. Is the small choke tube connected between the two carbs? Put 290s in....220s are WAY lean. Once you check the above...and the carbs check out, it's an air leak or bad spark.

First, turn the caps lock off....it's the equivalent of shouting on the Internet. It's kinda hard to explain, but if you pick up a clymers manual...it will show you with pictures. I'll try... Take the carb cap, compress the spring and put the cable through the middle. The little tower in the slide has an open side...slide the cable end into that..and pull up to secure it. While still holding the spring, there is a ushaped retainer, the notch on the retainer goes over the top of the tower, once in place and seated, release the spring and it will hold the retainer down. If I just read all that...and didn't know what I was doing...that would still confuse the hell out of me.... I don't know how to explain it any better without pictures....good luck!!!

Good thread, good info... I might have browsed past it...but Mikey...are you going to purge your raptor like a meth bike?? mel...just use it for bonfire fuel...LOL...

I would run them with a pump as they were designed to be run that way... Those would be a GREAT carb for a zilla.... Free bump.

He'll be able to get enough runs in to tune, it...though. It'll kill it with prolonged exposure to leaded gas and premix...though, you are correct. PM ojcool...he's done a lot of wideband sensor testing...

Because of the HUGE intake ports on a cub, they are a little harder on pistons than stockers....they tend to leave a nice stripe on the intake side. I can't say one size cub is harder on the pistons than the other....

Took a guy in France to buy 'em, all good. Money today, ship Monday...

The next time I see brady080 I'll ask him the differences in weight. Last I remember, it was very negligible compared to a steel/chromoly counterpart.

Sold....thanks ladies and gents...

Thanks...I got plenty of trannys complete, need the 3/4 to cut overrides....

True enough...I'm just going by what myself, Hopper, Tommy, JT, Doug Austin and a few others run in theirs....we all run within a jet or two of each other...and we all run the 39PWK pumper carbs, except JT... I don't think so...(not sure) but if you had to purge E85...what do all the people that run it in their cars do?

True enough...I'm just going by what myself, Hopper, Tommy, JT, Doug Austin and a few others run in theirs....we all run within a jet or two of each other...and we all run the 39PWK pumper carbs, except JT...

Sold pending payment....

As a side note...that LSR arm is flat out sick...buddy has one on his....

155 mains and 52 pilots should be safely rich. go from there...

I remove all brass fittings from the carb, scrape them clean. Pilot Jets are so small, I use a fine speaker wire to clean them. If the needles are bent, get new ones from sudco.com, carbparts.com or get a set of Toomey/Dynojet needles. You can also get the needles from Vito's performance...please don't try to straighten them, they'll never work the same...