dajogejr

That is some seriously funny shit.... :yelrotflmao:

That's great...I've used Experts Exchange for years, I'm in IT....and never even thought of that....

Those parts generally don't wear out... if you cleaned all the holes and took apart the master assembly, that should be good. Honestly....a mitivac kit from the auto parts store does WONDERS trying to bleed your brakes. Especially if you have a real long rear brake line for a long swinger.... I gave up trying to bleed mine on my 14 over arm, bought a 25 dollar mitivac kit, SOOO Much easier....

Very interesting Snop....thank you very much. I said the same thing in another thread. If those aren't Ricky's Stators from the Canada RM guy, they sure as hell look like it, down to the color of the connectors. I"m on my 2nd one...seems to be ok, but...it's less than a year old. Honestly, unless you're gonna run BIG lights, stock are the best....

Put a lot of money on it Kaos...that will get the blood pumping....LOL... Attention? That's what the commercials are for....

Patriots, Tie Breaker 40 points. I've been a Pats fan for a long time, even when they weren't so dominant. I remember the Parcells/Bledsoe days. Now that Tom Brady is inarguably the man....and being he's a Michigan Wolverine (My all time favorites, win or lose)....that's just icing on the cake. I think this is gonna be a boring game, like 23 to 14, 24-17...something like that. As much as I love to see NE light it up, Bellechick is KNOWN for doing just enough to win big games.... Beers guys...should be a lot of fun!! Be safe!

Hey...King of boys....if you're gonna call me out, do you think you could at least spell my name right? You could call me daddy, but I'd never claim a mis fire like you....that should've ended up as a swallow or stain on a dress.... I agree with the Sharpton and Jackson thing....they're some of the biggest racists out there. Reverse racism IS still racism. If people would stop tuning in, searching for and buying everything in sight with Britney on it...her 15 minutes would go away... People buy it, paparazzi delivers it....and the little sis apple didn't fall too far from the tree.... And to think their mom was going to write a book on parenting... That's almost like saying Michael Jackson should write a book on keeping it real, or what NOT to do with "Jesus Juice"... Hell yeah, stir it up....it's all good.

I would talk to SEVERAL builders about the super cub. In drag racing terms (I know that's not what you're asking) but the Super takes considerable work to get it to run better than the 68mm cub. I'm pretty sure Nate McCoy said he gets up to 5 ponies more out of the super than his strongest cub. If you're riding woods and GNCC, I think a good port on your stockers will be more than enough....to be honest.

Nope...68mm bore are big bore blaster pistons. Lots of people carry 'em. the bigger bore Cheetahs, 72, 73mm bores, etc. require Trinity cut pistons by Wiseco. Maybe alcoholbanshee can shed some light on this, he's got a little more cheetah experience than I do...(none...lol)

Yes. Removing the airbox and slapping pods on there will need 1-3 bigger mains. You're not severely lean...but keep in mind, it only takes one bad revolution of the motor for shit to break....and at 9 to 10K RPM, that's a lot of spinning...

My pleasure... If I kinda skimmed your post, I"m sorry...early, first coffee, you understand. I had a 4 mil cub on gas in 06, 10 mil cub an alky this year and 07. Based on my experience: No straight cuts or billet second. I don't even have them on mine, and ALL I do is drag race. The only thing I meant about parts availability is...with a cub, just about everything is off the shelf...from anyone. If you get a bigger bore Cheetah PV motor, you have to get the Pistons from Trinity... Cubs were designed to use big bore blaster pistons....just about everyone carries them. The head is proprietary....as well. Whereas a cub you can get a stocker cut, or just use any aftermarket head with the right domes. It's not that the parts for a Cheetah PV aren't available, they're just not as readily available from Joe Local....that's all. You're building primarily a duner, not a dragger. This is where it gets tough. My advice, based on how poorly my old 4 mil shifted, is to get a dunable override and lockup clutch. A stout running 4 mil cub or cheetah is very capable of 85 to 95 HP. My 4 mil dyno'd at 85 HP with T5 pipes and stock carbs (waiting on my carbs and pipes... ) With my Shearer inframe pipes and 35PWKs, I safely estimate it was 90ish....and it shifted under throttle like poo. Brand new clutch basket (billet) new inner and outer, perfectly adjust clutch and shifted. It just wouldn't shift under power. Depending on where you ride and how much you weigh, don't forget about a 6 over arm and more paddle, too. Longer the arm you go...the more paddle. 4 over arm might be ok...but, it will be a handful to ride if you're getting grip. My 4 mil with a 6 over arm, 10 paddle haulers came up at will with my 250lb ass on it. I hope this helps....

That's funny....didn't you just get done running your mouth about something you don't have a clue on in that KFX thread? That's what I thought.... I gave my reason, I apologized and it was an honest mistake. If I could delete my post, I would have. Planet Sand has a Scottytoohotty. He's from MI, he hangs with our crowd of racers....and Planet Sand was down almost all day yesterday. I thought he came here to poke fun and kid around with us. Simple, honest mistake....on my part, fully admitted that. Loco...well, Loco is Loco.... I don't have to make excuses or reasons for him, he's a big boy....

A perfectly tuned bike is on the edge, albeit a very thin one, of being lean. That's when it makes the most power. I don't dance on that line...I keep my bike a little like me, a little fat, a little happy....

True enough...but I'd think if they worked that well, more people would use them...

You pretty much hit the nail on the head, did nothing, waste of time. And....it gets in the way of cable routing, takes up space...etc.

All the riding you're going to be doing is WOT open or heavy throttle....power valves would be pointless IMO.

Build a 10 mil cub. It will do everything you want, won't kill your budget, and you can keep it on fuel instead of alcohol.... Alky is fine for drag racing and dunes, but fireroads, NO...you don't want to hold an alky bike WOT for that long. You don't need matoon cases for a 10 mil cub build.

WORD...Sefarian is one helluva nice guy and good businessman!

If you follow these instructions to a T, and the plugs are fine...ride on. http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/plugchop.html If the bike before pipes was jetted pig fat rich, that could be the case. I've NEVER heard or seen someone switch from stock pipes to aftermarket pipes and not be lean....on bone stock jetting. Sounds like you know you're lean....why chance it?

If you're worried about losing 2 bucks for a pair of plugs....this might not be your sport....

Word... I tried Split Fires YEARS ago...and my CR250 would foul them. NGK...never had an issue, despite what the advertisement for splitfire said. I have run Champion if I was stuck somewhere and Joe Bob's local bait/hunt/fish and tackle store didn't carry NGKs....

Buy the cheap one. Take a sander or die grinder and lightly smooth the three edges where it will slide against the cases. It gets bolted down and there is no stress on the plate. You just want to be able to move it somewhat easily to make adjustments without pulling the flywheel off....

Timing marks are timing marks, regardless of the stroke. However...whatever your engine builder recommends for timing is what should be followed. The stroke is longer, but the crank key and flywheel position are the same, the pickups hit the coil at the same time, etc. I personally would set it at 4 or 5 and start there. Obviously, with that much compression and timing you'll want race fuel. I generally like more timing for shorter runs, less for longer runs... More timing and compression = more heat....

Yeah, made me want to build a duner bike like no other....kinda miss the simpler, cheaper days...LOL..

Homeboy... He has 28PWKs. If he can get those slides in backwards, he's a helluva magician or machinist!!! :wink: I had a motor that started and ran great in Neutral, put it under load....sucked balls. Ended up being a bad air leak on the base gasket. All the electrical checked out.