dajogejr

You can use one off a Honda 250R. http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/01-0604/

Heavy duty steels, street bike fibers and HD springs. You won't get this kit from RMATV, or any other online retailer. You'd have to get parts from a dealer or other shop that stocks these parts. They last, they hold up to big HP machines...and if you're looking to save a few bucks on a component as important as your clutch, then it's it's probably not for you.... I know several people that have run the cheapo tusk clutch from RMATV and had good luck. I believe in you get what you pay for.

I go to imageshack.us, upload the image...then copy and paste the "hotlink for forums" URL into the body of a post, works for me...

Get a new tester. It originally showed over 200 PSI, now it's showing over 180 on 20cc domes? That's 20 PSI plus drop, and 180 is high for a stock stroke motor on 20cc domes. Get a new tester.

In that case, welcome aboard.... How about a few pictures of some of your work? Dave

Sorry if I came off as disrespectful, I surely didn't mean it that way. Typing doesn't portray tone or attitude very well. You've obviously put a LOT of thought and time into your setup...and I'm sure it's top quality just by your in depth description....

Beat me to it... Easy way to tell if the boots are the problem. Start the bike, douse the boot/intake area with carb cleaner. If the bike looses RPMs, Stumbles and acts like it's gonna stall (or does stall) you found the problem. Fix it...before you get hurt OR it smokes the motor....

Two things. What if the problem IS the intake? And what if it's a Cheetah or other banshee aftermarket engine with different intakes? I've had the intake bolts work their way loose (a dab of blue loctite to cure it) and it would rev up due to a small air leak. Your tester wouldn't account for that. IMO....just removing the carbs and exhaust should be all you have to take off. Exhaust and carbs won't cause an air leak, anything else possibly could.....

You should've told him I sent you, you could've got it for 57.99 shipped...LOL. One of these days, I'm gonna have to buy that kit. I keep saying I'm going to...but damn I like go fast parts...LOL.

Gotta excuse bansh-eman, Jarid...he's still working through the coloring books and Curious George series....LOL...

Do you mean a compression tester or LEAK Down tester... I've never seen a leak down tester at Pep Boys, Murray's, Advanced Auto or Autozone. I see compression testers all the time.

Call Bob @ RB Racing. About 50 or so plus shipping. He normally has a few kits on ebay, but I haven't seen one in a week or so. Good guy...sells a nice kit he puts together himself. 517-388-3662

Buy the ones you think you need, safely rich....and go from there.

Damn I can't wait to see that thing rip. I was gonna call you about this weekend coming up Sean, but you answered my question right there....

You're not going to be able to run what we do running 500 feet. I'd start it at 7-9...see how it likes it.

You have a bone stock bike that has never been beaten...leave it alone. You'll never have the fastest bike everywhere, I don't care who ya are... If you've never dumped a dime into it and only been beaten once, leave it. Cause it's an endless pit of money after the first few mods....

Sorry homie, until I get a duner bike, I might not be any fun anywho... Pretty much sit at the strip...

I think Saturday will be dune day...I really wanna make passes Thursday, T&T day from 10 to 5... Teddy said there is no test and tune Friday or Saturday. He did say if there is enough interest, there will be a gambler's race and possibly a little test and tune for that, but no promises...

I am scrambling with my friends to figure that out. we have a couple options (better than having none, I guess...) but we're trying to figure out who's driving, what we're hauling, who has off work, etc... Aren't you supposed to be an uncle again soon...or was that Memorial day Jer and Linds had to miss??

Trying to figure out how many of the HQ'ers are gonna make it to the ATV bash for West Michigan...and some dune racing afterwards. The Event starts Thursday, June 26. Here's the calendar of events. If you plan on going to the bash, Post or PM me please.... http://www.sanddragways.com/Events/ATVNationals08.htm

I won't be there Craig....so I will get my sparkies to you via mail OR someone that will actually be there!!!

Smell the plug, see if you can smell burnt gear oil or tranny fluid. A bad PTO side (clutch side) crank seal will allow the crank to suck tranny fluid into the chamber and try to fire on it. And they don't run on tranny fluid...LOL. That will cake your spark plug in a hurry...and cause it not to fire the fuel/premix/air in the cylinder. Just a possibility....

FYI...those are CPI inframe unstamped pipes. They look to be bigbore, but I'm not 100% certain on that. They are worth some cheddar...nice clean bike there.

4 mil cub, keep the compression reasonable, timing reasonable...it'll run all day long.

1. Yes, you'll get stroker domes cut. The pistons will travel up into the head 2mm. A LOT of people do this. 2. As answered, yes, standard run of the mill Oring kit for the pro design or noss head will work. 3. Yes and no. Since you mentioned a dune port, my advice would be get a set of 33 or 35PWKs. They will give you more mid and top end than stockers. They are NOT critical, but they would enhance the motor package overall. Same thing could be said for the pipes. They are great trail pipes...but a set of CPIs would be better down the road. 4. You must get the cylinders ported to match the stroker crank's added stroke to make it worth it. You MUST tell whomever is porting them you plan on running cut domes and not a spacer plate. That is important. Ok...it's not that you 100% HAVE to get it ported to run with the stroker crank, it's just that if you're gonna spend the money on the crank, make sure you get it ported to match the crank. Get the long rod stroker crank, and make sure you get the correct 795 series pistons to compliment them.