dajogejr

Not because it has a boost bottle, not because it's anodized blue...but it's because it's POWDER COATED to match....LOL. If those cylinders aren't banged up too much, someone will get a good deal.

I have one and love it. Less Orings than conventional 2 piece heads, they accept NOSS and Pro-Design style domes. I like the raised center type look to them.

There is a story behind that.... A well built 10 mil cub with a light rider will do 80's up Sand Mountain...all about the setup.

Marginally better. Within a few HP...but my point all along is it's the difference between opening your garage door vs. an airplane hanger door when the power comes on. That same setup, although I never dyno'd it....probably made 8 to 10HP more on 35's and RDZ/Shearer inframes but it moved the power up 1000 to 1500 RPM when it hit and gained 1000 to 1500 RPM overrev...or peak revs. I too know how to setup and tune a bike...but it's just too much work to make a cylinder designed to breath and rev out vs. a set of stockers....for a lot cheaper. Just like when people say I'm going to put a 2 into one exhaust, 1 into two carb, spend thousands in suspension, etc., to MX race my banshee. Why? Buy a 4 stroke, save the money, headaches, etc. 250Rs ruled the MX quad scene until the latest 4 strokes came out. And they were only made for 4 years...86-89. 14 or so years later, you don't see many racing MX. Not because you can't find parts, etc., it's because there is a better and MORE PRACTICAL alternative.

4 mil cub, 180 plus PSI, cleaned up, race fuel, 9 degrees of timing. I'm not arguing that a cub will make better power at 4K RPM than a set of stockers...hell, my weedeater does that. What I'm saying is it is easier to get linear power and a better overall curve out of stockers than cut down, deck, detune, etc. a cub. The erratic line is the dyno pull I made with a bad flywheel...that's why it's all over the place. Hit like a truck from about 6300 RPM to 9500RPM or so. And this run...by the way...was with stock carbs and T5 pipes.

My point is....if you're trying to teach us something, or trying to add a point, how about you make it just a LITTLE easier for us to comprehend and read. Even if what you're typing is right only in your little world...you could still try to make it easier to read. Bench Racer? Please. My bike took 2nd in the Planet Sand 0-475 class twin limited class...which, happens to be the class that all you so called non-drag race 4, 7 and 10 mil cubs are in. That was one of the largest classes there, it was DOMINATED by cub. I've put hundreds and hundreds of passes on my bike, and I've been nice enough to probably let a dozen people ride my bike at the track too, for fun...and plenty of them are on this site. Yet all I hear you two talk about is this builder or that builder...and a fellow Oregon rider even told you guys he doesn't run setups the way you do.... icantypeasentencelikeyoudotooifit'seasierforyoutoreadandcomprehend. 4stroker, I'll get you the numbers...

Hooked on Phonics. Please.

I don't even know why I'm posting this.... We were talking about cubs. They DON'T MAKE A CUB IN A 75 BORE. SO A 68 BORE CUB WITH A 64 STROKE IS 465 CC. I need a few periods, spaces...and a capital letter or two to read the rest of that.

Before you replace the stator, remove the coil wire end caps, cut the wire ends and replace them with NGK plug ends. It's less than a 15 dollar fix. DO NOT BUY A RICKY STATOR stator...they are junk. Get a used OEM. Also when you remove the flywheel, be sure to use the correct thread in removal tool, NOT a jaw type puller. Shake the flywheel when you remove it, make sure it doesn't sound like a salt shaker...if so, the magnets inside are broken. Replace the flywheel....

It's a stand up....Jorge's old bike.

Next time... See if a hard wire cable fixes the issue, as suggested. That will tell you if it's hardware or software. If it works...uninstall the driver for the wireless, install the driver fresh. If it doesn't work on the hard wire either, try safe mode and run a virus scan... Vista is still a PITA....

Get a different XP CD. It will come with generic USB and touchpad drivers that will work. I've literally loaded up hundreds of laptops with XP and 2000 over the past several years. Everyone either let touch pad, USB or both work by default.... Here's your touchpad driver. But if the XP install is botched, good chance even the correct driver is not gonna help. First thing I'd do is go to memtest86.com and download an .iso, burn the image to a CD and test memory...then get the hard drive manufacturer's support/diagnostic .iso....and run that. If the HDD and RAM come back clean, it's a botched XP install. Here's that driver. It's possible your buddy installed the Vista driver... http://www.acerpanam.com/synapse/forms/por...s=&areaid=2 Welcome to my world buddy....just because you don't have the recovery or driver disks...doesn't mean you can't go right to the manufacturer and download the correct ones. When I do a new build, I always go to the manufacturer's site for the latest driver.

No...sure don't. Any one of the site sponsors should be able to help you though...sorry.

Zilla. The should do high 70's to low 80s bone stock...weigh roughly the same as your banshee...and have 5 to 8 HP more bone stock vs your piped and filter'd bike. Over that long of a distance...geared right...you might be able to catch and pull away on top end because your bike will rev further and you have a 6 speed tranny vs. his 5 speed. But...should be a good race... It think rider weight and ability will be the real deciding factor to be honest.

Yes!

Well... I try my best to err on the side of caution. I'm sure someone will post shave .020 off the surface and slap it on. But that same person won't refund your money or even offer to pay for any damage IF any occurs... An aftermarket head will give you more options....but you pay for that. Sorry I don't have a direct, easy yes or no answer....I'd rather see you spend a little time and money now than possibly a lot more later...

I always use RTV on both sides of both gaskets on the intakes. I usually use a very fine roloc pad (scotchbrite) to clean up the mating surfaces, then brake clean to get any fuel/grease/dirt off them. I also use just a dab of blue loc tite on the intake bolts. Even after being properly tightened....I've had some back out on me, causing a lean condition. Luckily I caught it early before it got ugly. As said...how much pressure are you using for the leak down? You don't want more than 6PSI....

Split the cases.... And while you're at it...have the crank bearings checked. Bad bearings could cause the end to wobble and ruin a seal. It would only be a matter of time before you're doing this all over again. If you're going to do it...do it right. Have the crank checked, trued and welded while it's out. Replace both seals. Have the top end inspected for wear and clearances. Now is the time to do it since it's all gonna be apart. It MIGHT cost a little now...or it could cost a LOT more later.

I have a 1/2 Ingersol Rand that is probably 12 to 15 years old, has the 2 inch extended anvil so you could use a 3/4 or 13/16 flip socket for lug nuts (once the two main sizes....) I got it back in the mid 90's when I worked in garages. Get the rubber boot that goes over it so it doesn't get too beat up, drop a little oil, just about any kind of oil in in once a week, or every other day if you use it that much....it'll last you forever...

I would bet that extra .005 grams from titanium would help at the drag strip....LOL. Seriously...don't worry about it. Stockers work just fine.

Thank you....I was beginning to think I was speaking a foreign language X2. If they increased the price of that bike by 3 grand but put 22 inch chrome spoke rims, does that mean they know even more or build them even better. Price.....has nothing to do with it, especially when you bling the shit out of it. Well...since this whole conversation has been about cubs, let's see. 58X68 (4 mil cub) is 421, 64X68 (10 mil cub) is 465...and let me get my calculator out here. Carry the 1....ah...yes. 465-421 is...tada....44. If that motor in that one bike isn't a cub...I didn't notice...if it was a DM or DMX or other large bore, that's not exactly what we've been talking about all along...right? MY WHOLE point all along is sure, you can detune and choke the fuck out of a cylinder meant to run, and breathe ....and make it do the same as a nicely ported stock set of cylinders. But what's the point? That's like me saying (and yes, this is the drag racer in me talking) Well...I really could've run a 3.9 with my setup, but...I figured I'd detune it, break a clutch or two...and only run 4.8s...cause that's how they set them up around here. NW...you wrote a while back, purpose built bike. I agree with that 100%. I disagree with both of you how to arrive at that purpose.... Wiz....I've read most of your posts...and most of them seem like you're trying to stir shit. And I AM NOT THE ONLY one saying that....

Leaking up the studs is a very common problem. New washers, acorn nuts and RTV will fix it, I promise.

Interesting...in the fact you need your eyes checked. Where did I say large cc bikes? Here is a 4 mil cub, one of the 4 for sale, with PTs and a 2 into one setup. And I've seen plenty more on their site in the past. I have to admit...it's been probably a solid month or two since I've been on it. (By the way, the 10 mil you pointed out is a mere 44cc's larger than the 4 mil I pointed out...not a huge dif there buddy...) http://67.199.65.66/cascade_innovations/ne...ORE_DEPT_ID=609

The guy probably bought a blem set from CPI..paid half the price you did, kept the hardware and sold them to you for profit. Call CPI...see what they say.... That's a lot of coin to pay for pipes with a dent and missing hardware... Is your motor stock? CPIs will run better on a ported cylinder...and T5 is really a tough pipe to be honest....

Hit a hardware store or call NOSS and get copper or brass washers, pickup metric Acorn nuts. Don't use Yamabond on those studs. RTV works much better.