NMBANSHEE

Got it now. Sounds nice . May have found my new pipe setup. Get the best of both world, bottom power of FMF and sound of Toomey

You will need to get a cable for the thumb throttle. ToomeyRacing or Vitos bothhave them for about $20.00. Josh

What do we need to do listen to this file Thanks---------Josh

You might be able to match it up by appearance or part# on a carb website check out link below ((-----click here-----))

Shouldn't need to change jetting but its always a good idea to check the plugs after a short ride with any mod. For installing the new head its not to hard. As much as I hate to send you to bluetraxx they do have a good "how to" on a head install. Only diference would be with the NOSS head you don't have to change the head studs, so for that reason alone I would buy the NOSS over PRO DESEIGH. ((------click here------))

Here's another option thats a little more expesive but nice, or might give you some more ideas, check ot the mechanical gauge (no electronics so it would be great for the SHEE) ((------J&T products------))

Here's my thought's on chains. First is when a chain stretches to the point if removing a link its time to replace it, when replacing the chain always replace the spockets at the same time. I highly recomend DID-Xring chains and any decent sprocket, I have run SUNSTAR and AFAM with good luck. After install and first adjust keep it clean and lubed and make sure you don't adjust it to tight that will wear a chain faster than anything, if any thing leave it a tiny bit loose. When you adjust a chain to tight you don't allow enough room in the chain for the suspension to travel so when it does it stetches the crap out of the chain so it has room to travel. Almost every chain stretch problem I have seen is due to this. I have run DID-Xrings on my last 2 dirt bikes and after the first breakin adjust they have never stetched again, first one I actually sold the bike with it still on there after desert racing on it for 1.5 seasons, the current one has about 2 Years non race time on a YZ400F dirt bike and still has not stretched, and it has about 15 more horse and a ton more torque than a stock SHEE.

All of three of these were rides on other peoples bikes, So who knows if they were jetted correctly, wich might have changed my impression of them. Well the T6 was a good improvement over stock but not what I expected, still a good smooth power band The Fatty was similar, but from what everyone says it has more potential with other mods The T5 was totally different, The thing had no bottom end but once it hit about 3 to 4 thousand RPM HOLD ON So I guess what I Keep hoping for is a pipe that has the bottom of the fmf with the mid top of the T5. I know its wishful thinking but one can wish can't he? By the way I live at 5300 ft in elevation so compression is a problem up here. Maybe some one can help me on this one. Does anyone think if I got T5's and bumped my compression up to 145 PSI (from 100 PSI due tue elevation) that the T5's would have equal to or more bottom than stock? Hope that helped, And thanks for the opinions---------Josh

I havn't ever tried type F maybe thats the way to go I only tried dexron and didn't like it due to having to adjust the clutch alot more than normal. I know what you mean about Gearsaver looking like ATF, but it doesn't seem to wear the clutch like the DEX did. So maybe Its more like Type F . Might have to try it out

I've tried it back when I raced dirt bikes, and it seemed like it wore the clutch fast. ATF does not have the lubricating properties that oil does, I usually either run BELRAY 85W gearsaver or a good quality 10W30 motor oil, However ATF does have a lot of detergent in it and works great run for very short times to clean up the trani, and will also help swell up seeping gaskets.

Hey ledofthezep if you could can you give your impression on the power band w/PC's? I'm trying to decide on wich pipes to get, I have ridden on T5's, T6's and Fatties but not PC's and it is one that I'm thinking about. Maybe list some of the differences between the ones I've listed if you have ridden any of them. Thanks a Bunch---------Josh Sorry for bargin in on your thread Banshee17Racing

Man those things look Huge when mounted to the bars

If I'm correct the GYTR filter goes on the stock filter cage not allowing you to remove the airbox lid wich will restrict your air flow. If you want the most air flow with out sacrafising protection I would get the Pro Design adapter with UNI filter and take the lid off then rejet, Rocky Mountain has then for $89.99 P/N=49-551 Good Luck----Josh

Yes and no if you ride in alot of muddy ot wet conditions its usually best to keep the airbox but you can still take the lid off or cut part of it off like sredish said or install some airbox vents. No matter what I recomend an air box adapter and a K&N or UNI foam filter Next option would be clamp on K&N's direct to filter, Flows a tiny bit more but not as good of filtering, generally recomended for duning and sandy areas not very good for extremely dusty or wet areas. Just make sure to check your jetting no matter whick way you go Good Luck -------Josh

Shortly after I bought my bike it blew a water line off, over heated and took out the top end. So I took it back to the dealer under warrenty and they had to bore it.30 over to get past the scoring then installed wisco pistons. Been fine ever since going on about 2.5 years. So no you souldn't have any problems, I think you can bore them up to .80 over before you have to resleeve themm. However don't expect any great power gains from a boring it out, I didn't see any difference over stock since .30 over is only like 5cc's. Generally you should only bore if your cylinder has scoring or is worn to the point that a new piston and rings won't seal good Later----Josh

When I switched to pod filters I went up 5 jet sizes. 400's might not be to rich. Do a 6th gear plug chop on a warm engine and new plugs, look for a 2mm choclate brown ring around the bottom of the ceramic insulator. As for needles I would wait until you get the main dial in first. Sounds like it might be time to start saving for bigger carbs Good Luck

If anything you will be a little rich, so I would get it switched over and run maybe a 1/4 tank through it then put in new plugs and do a plug chop. Might need to go down 1 jet size, JUST GUESSING. Good luck-----Josh

Put the stock carbs back on until you get some good porting because until then you engine can't move enough air through it to keep the volocity up on the 35mm carbs, then put a 15t front spocket on it then maybe shave your head and lighten the flywheel. If you PM Boonman on here he can help you with the head and flywheel PS. look at my signature-----I have never had a raptor take me with just what listed below(I'm sure some highly modified ones could but not yet). I even raced some flat-track and TT with a buddie on a "modified craptor"and he couldn't touch me(he had alien exhaust, cams, filter, and jet kit).Funny part is he bought the craptor for himself and a BANSHEE for his wife after that race he went home and traded his wife bikes and then went and bought a bunch of stuff for the Banshee, He was that embarassed!!!!

I think what they mean is keep the air box and get the PRO DESIGN/UNI FILTER SETUP, Rocky mountain has them for $89.99 P/N=49-551. Then get the T-5 pipe set Rocky Mountain has them also. unfinished #0900-001-------$359.99 chrome #0900-002-------$479.99 Later----Josh

One way to make it a little taller if you don't mind keeping th 7/8" bars with the crossbar is to pick up a Set of MSR Dominator bars ATV bend. They are about an inch & 3/4" taller than stock banshee bars and taller than any other bars that I've seen. Rocky Mountain has them for $33.99 PN=11-0469 Nice bars and cheap

Same as above and I'll add that a good portion of the people on here eventually will or already have ported their egines, so most people want a pipe that will grow with their mods.

I'm not an expert but i think either would flow about the same except the adapter and air box will have a little better protection from water. Either way good buy though good luck----------Josh

Neither would I Have seen that problem before though----one of the main jet washers was missing when my buddy bought his banshee, he couldn't figure out why one cylinder was lean. He had me check his carbs out and I found his mising washer problem. Then all was good.

I'm not positive but I believe the RDZ inframes are the same as the Sheerer in frames (at least they look that way to me)which should be a good pipe for drag racing , others here should be able to tell you more. For jetting you will definetly need bigger jets. My guess would be around a 280 or so with stock air box and up around 320 will filter mods(either K&N pods or K&N and an airbox adapter) which you will want. Yamaha had their head up their rear when they designed the airbox and filter setup on these things. Anyway always remember to check the plug when your jetting (white=lean---black=rich---tan/ brown=perfect) Good luck-------------Josh