SouperSport

GORMAN?!?!? That's my "neck of the woods"! I'm literally like 30 minutes away... but I thought it was mostly motorcycle trails out there (NO ATVs...real narrow trails and all)... won't be able to join ya tomorrow, but hit me and we'll ride another time! OH...like I said before... I want to go to Pismo/Oceano THIS saturday (April 30). If you're interested in going (with me or meeting up) give me a holler!!

Hey Everybody!! I'm in the Lancaster/ Palmdale area! I've only had my Shee about 6 months so I've only been to Dove Sprngs once and the rest just local riding (pretty good riding though). Funny, you all mention Pismo... I'm trying to plan a trip there this weekend (April 30) or maybe just meet a few people there. No definate plans yet (no riding buddies yet), but we'll see what happens. And By the way... It's usually in the 90's by now up here in the desert, but this freak winter weather has kept it cooler longer... It's averaging mid 70's to 85 Tops, so far! Wanna go ride? then hit me up!!

OK... I figured it out (too impatient to wait)... fortunately I have a drill press, so I just drilled the rivets from the clutch basket side (experimented with the replacement, seeing how the basket was shot anyway). I just used a center punch (i think that's what it's called) to mark the center of the rivet (so the drill bit wouldn't slip around) and chose a bit slightly larger than the rivet shaft (not the wide "head" on the basket side) I estimated it by looking at the flattened rivets on the back of the clutch. With the indention from the center punch, I drilled true center (except one, but it still worked) until the head of the rivet broke loose from the shaft (drill bit smaller than the head, but bigger than the shaft...get it). The rivet head left a little ring around around the drill bit, as soon as it broke loose I knew I drilled far enough. Fortunately, with the right size drill bit, there is no drilling damage to the clutch basket whatsoever (except the one I fuged...good thing this basket was practice). Then I simply used a heavy flat screwdriver to pry the metal plate (on the back) away from the gear (rivets still attached). Don't worry, you can get it in there without touching or damaging any teeth. and I used a hammer and the center punch to punch what was left of the rivet out of the metal plate... Perfect condition!! Do it right and the only thing you damage is the rivets!! So really no damage to anything from the whole process, except the one hole of the already fried clutch basket. Now that I know what I'm doing I can do the whole process again to MY good basket.... Only problem is, is that the brass bushing and the gear I need are STILL PRESSED onto the large primary gear that I don't need. Guess that small gear is pressed on after all!! I STILL have to take it to the shop!! But at least I know how to disassemble my original assembly when my billet basket comes in.. I just have to get the bushing and gear pressed onto the assembly I'm using. At least you all now have a write-up on the whole process, if you need to replace your basket (as if a new basket wouldn't come with instructions!) But who needs those?!?!?

OK....FINALLY got all my parts to fix my Shee, except for a New billet basket(coming later). However I have the gear and spacer and all that "other" stuff. SOOOO, I have two clutch assemblies... 1...my original with the thrashed gear and spacer (click to see the pics) 2...the one I bought with good gears and spacer, but has a worn basket (both baskets are OEM) To put the good basket on the good assembly, I need to remove both baskets and reattach the good one. (I realize the primary gear will come loose when I remove the basket, so I'll be using my original with the new stuff). My question is how do I remove/reassemble the basket onto the clutch assembly? Should I drill the rivet from the basket side or grind/drill from the gear side? To re-attach the good basket, do I just use bolts like the aftermarket ones (anything special...gear clearance issues)? or do the aftermarket ones use "special hardware" or something? Will I have to take it to a shop and have it riveted? I may end up going to the shop, but I'd like to save myself as much time and money as possible, so I want to do as much as I can myself (I'm pretty "tool handy") (I have a manual, but it doesn't seem to help much with this...) Thanks Guys!

How about trying an ignitor from a gas BBQ grill or an old stove. AN electric one would work "dandy" but you could probably rig up a manual "clicker" too. Wouldn't have to drill into the pipes as much and you could probably hide it much better (then it would run off the battery too) And for extra fuel in one pipe you could always pull the plug wire on one cylinder... would run like crap, but it'd be pumping all the fuel mixture out one pipe (not that I'd want to try it myself!!) Whatcha guys think of that? Might be worth trying...

Looks like I got all the parts I need!! Thanks Guys! Got several very quick replys (within minutes of posting) and all my items were express mailed this morning! Big Thanks goes out to brock_fuzzy_69!!!!

Some of you have read my thread on HOW I broke my Shee! And seen the Pics of my Broken Shee! (another forum...sorry... got tired of double posting!) Well Now I'm In need of some USED parts...ASAP! (if you happen to have some new ones I'll definately take those too) I need the small "Starter" gear on the back of the clutch basket (not the large primary gear), and I need the brass bushing (spacer) inside. This spacer is pressed onto the clutch basket and the starter gear is pressed onto that spacer. It will need to be removed (not hammered out) or I need the whole basket (just not the clutches and hub). I'm hoping to get a decent price since all I need is that gear and bushing! If you happen to have a kickstarter gear laying around for cheap, I need that too! The dealer will ONLY sell the ENTIRE assembly just to get the one starter gear, and that brass bushing is sold separately anyway! And I need both... I'd much rather buy a billet basket and press these parts onto it, as opposed to buying a whole new assembly (not much price difference). And here's the kicker... I'm trying to get all the parts (delivered to my door) by this weekend if possible (NLT Friday). If you can take paypal, I can pay IMMEDIATELY! If you want money order or cashiers check, I will mail them out the same time you mail out the parts. I'm good for my word! If your a regular on Everything2Stroke.com, You can ask Flattrack and 370Banshee!! Or send me a PM. or Post here! Your help is appreciated! Thanks!

Well I pulled the clutch cover and here's what I found.... I posted some pics on another forum (got tired of double posting)... and they have been VERY helpful so far, just need some parts now Click Here for the pics. Tranny is fine (as far as I can tell), I removed the "debris" and it shifts no problem.. DEBRIS?!?!? WHAT DEBRIS?!? Well, it's call the starter gear! The small one just behind the clutch basket.... well it SHATTERED!! OK, it's only about 5 pieces, but that's shatterred to me! And it caused some damage when it did... One Tooth broke off of the kickstarter gear... idle gear seems to be fine. Primary driven gear is just fine, but in the process of the starter gear breaking up and falling to the bottom of the case, it scored up the back of the clutch housing (basket), meaning it'll need to be replaced anyway. The screws on the bearing stopper plate are thrashed (screws are not a big deal though) and the little "guard plate" above that is scored up a little, but not completely mutilated. And as you can imagine there was quite a bit of metal filings in the oil and left in the case when I drained it. That's gonna be a mother to clean up!!! Not bad for a Banshee that's barely 6 months old HUH?!?!? So I'll need to completly replace the following: Starter gear & brass bushing (on clutch basket) kickstarter gear a couple screws That's at first inspection... I really need to look more closely and make sure everything else is fine before I try to reassemble. If anyone can help with those parts, please PM me... My Banshee is down until then....

I donno what to do yet... was riding my Shee... parked on a hill to look around and turned the engine off (on purpose of course). When I went to start it, the kickstarter "missed". It will not engage with the clutch and therefore won't turn the engine over... (Oh it gets worse) I coasted downhill and poped the clutch...NO PROBLEM... she started right up. Well then it would not shift! AT ALL. I was stuck in second gear. The clutch will disengage when I Pull the clutch lever but it would not shift in or out of gear. I had to drive like 3 or 4 miles home in second gear. There was this slight grinding noice in the CLUTCH case the whole way back. Not really bad, but noticeable. By the time I got home I could shift to first, neutral, and second. But it shifts VERY hard, and in neutral it sounds like the gears are grinding ever so slightly (this sounds like it's in the transmission). I think it's kinda strange that this happend all at once. Obviously my only re-course is to drain the oil... pull the clutch cover and go from there. But has anyone else had a similar experience that might help me pinpoint the cause of the problem? (ironically I JUST bought a clymer manual...was hopeing I wouldn't have to use it too soon though) Any suggestions?!?

Found my T-5's elsewhere! But thanks! THX!

PM'd ya too...

On LIVE TV....Ooohh...that sucks!!!

You probably shouldn't have said that... See This--->http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=43594

Hey I'm all for your action AGAINST Bill #344!! But I'm not an Oregon resident... Stuck in CALIF!! They say most other states eventually follow California! It kinda SUCKS!! By end of April or May my '04 Banshee will be mostly parked except for riding around the house! (at least our sound restrictions aren't as bad..) If this passes, we'll all be seeing a WHOLE LOT more 4-pokes around and less Banshees! Banshees are one of those OHVs prohibited between May and August (at least newer ones)!! DAMN politics!! (Poli=many, Tics=blood sucking creatures!) Good luck guys!

Apparently ONLY CA registered MOTORCYCLES are REQUIRED to have a U.S. Forest Service approved spark arrester! Didn't find anything on ATVs having one... Cool beans!! BUT... CA sound Regs... (1) Noise emissions of competition off-highway vehicles manufactured on or after January 1, 1998, shall be limited to not more than 96 dbA, and if manufactured prior to January 1, 1998, to not more than 101 dbA, when measured from a distance of 20 inches using test procedures established by the Society of Automotive Engineers under Standard J-1287, as applicable. Noise emissions of all other off-highway vehicles shall be limited to not more than 96 dbA if manufactured on or after January 1, 1986, and not more than 101 dbA if manufactured prior to January 1, 1986, when measured from a distance of 20 inches using test procedures established by the Society of Automotive Engineers under Standard J-1287, as applicable. Translation... found at http://ohv.parks.ca.gov

OK THIS IS A BIG DEAL.... CPI's and Rockets... do I have to get an ugly set of "sparky" spark arrestors, or different silencers to meet sound and forestry regs?!? And am I going to lose power adding stuff to meet these regs that I might as well buy a different set that does meet them?!? Performance IS cool and all, but not if I'm getting a ticket every other trip... nobody has even addressed that issue yet!! I live in California for god sake!! The liberal capital of the world!!! Damn sound regs, fire regs, EPA regs on OHV's.... (we won't even go into Gun regs!) This state has regulations for everything... damn! So unfortunately I have to make sure my pipes meet them! What can I do?!? Any suggestions with pipe reccomendations.... (please) Let's just say money isn't the issue... Cause I haven't seen a set of pipes yet that tops $1000.... and I have about $2K i'm putting into it!!

I so sorry to hear about your sister... My heart truly goes out to you! I know there not allot that can be said, buy here the lyrics to a song I like to remember when things aren't at their best. Still makes me cry when I hear it! I hope it blesses you like it does me! Click here for MP3...Full length Acoustic version @ 256kbps (7.12mb) (Legal download....found at http://www.buzzplant.com/mercyme/email4/ ) It's called "Homesick" by MercyMe ------------------------------------------------------ You're in a better place, I've heard a thousand times And at least a thousand times I've rejoiced for you But the reason why I'm broken, the reason why I cry Is how long must I wait to be with you I close my eyes and I see your face If home's where my heart is then I'm out of place Lord, won't you give me strength to make it through somehow I've never been more homesick than now Help me Lord cause I don't understand your ways The reason why I wonder.... if I'll ever know But, even if you showed me, the hurt would be the same Cause I'm still here so far away from home I close my eyes and I see your face If home's where my heart is then I'm out of place Lord, won't you give me strength to make it through somehow I've never been more homesick than now In Christ, there are no goodbyes And in Christ, there is no end So I'll hold onto Jesus with all that I have To see you again To see you again And I close my eyes and I see your face If home's where my heart is then I'm out of place Lord, won't you give me strength to make it through somehow Won't you give me strength to make it through somehow Won't you give me strength to make it through somehow I've never been more homesick than now

Oh...another question... I noticed when looking up specs on the moose clutch basket that they only make it for the 87-90 Shee... What differences are there between the early shee engines and later engines. I know the wiring harness and CDI is different. Can I put a newer stator assembly in it and use the harness from a new Banshee? Any other differences/incompatabilities I should be aware of??

I've been looking for a banshee engine for a project (you may have seen my threads for frame and/or engine wanted). I found a 1987 Banshee engine complete with wiring harness, intake, carbs and all side covers. (REALLY complete) It also has... Hot Rod Crank (is providing the original stock crank as well...decent shape) Barnett Dirt Diger clutch (practically new) Moose billet clutch basket Bored .60 over (or maybe it's .060) "Mild port".. (MX I think...donno) Cylinders still holding at 138psi Would you say it's worth getting? For how much? He was asking $800 + shipping...

I'm from Lancaster, CA. And I ride local dirt and ocasionally Dove Springs, & Jawbone! I haven't had my Shee very long, but I'm within a few hours of Dumont & Olancha too! Will be headed to Pismo (Oceano) in a month or so. And Eventually Glamis!!

OK...why not just use a Banshee Thumb throttle with the correct cable (the ones MotionPro sells for TORS elimination)?

Yeah I shift that way too!! Never really thought about it though... I just shift so fast, it just kinda came naturally to me and I barely have to put any pressure at all on the clutch at all! Nice and smooth!! No grinding or anything!! If the cable is adjusted correctly, it only takes a very light pull on the clutch for it to go into the next gear. I've never raced before... only against myself so we'll see how I do when I put up with the 4-pokes at the dunes! The Ideal Holeshot RPM is a little higher if you start in second than first, but it's not hard to figure out. I read in a review once that first gear was basically to you could poke around on some rocky hill climbing type stuff (like "utility" ATV's). But Who "POKES" on a Shee anyway!?!?

Apparently I'm not gonna find a >Californa frame< for sale.... SOO.... I'm looking for any Banshee Frame (Pre-2003) in good condition AND a complete Banshee Engine. BOTH MUST BE 2002 or EARLIER (for CA green sticker). Engine Can be "mild" or "wild" ... raced out or stock. I don't care! Must be in good running condition... (no chain damage) If it's missing a cover or some other minor things, we can talk about it. I've found frames between $300 and $350 shipped. And Engines around $550-$700. (Just bad Timing for me) So, I'm ready to buy now and I'm hoping to get both (engine & frame) for less than $1000 if possible. (negotiable) I know that's do-able... But I would like to get both THIS WEEK if I can find a good deal. I don't want to wait another month or two. If you have either, Feel free to email or PM ME. Thanks!

Right now my Banshee is Completely STOCK!! I do mostly Desert/Trail riding with some occasional Dunes/hill climbs (but not neccesarily drags). Even on trails I like "sliding" around the corners so I keep the RPM's in the mid to upper range... Then almost WFO whenever possible. Will probably add dual filters (unless kit comes with filter) I may add a Dyna Ignition and tires, but that's gonna be it at this point! Oh and I have STOCK porting as well.... I WILL eventually port and go from "mild to WILD" (cheetah) but I have to work with what I got now. I'll need something forestry and sound legal as I'll be hitting the OHVRA's regularly and wanna keep the rangers off my tail! With that Said, what do you recommend?

Oh and which pipe SOUNDS really Cool?!?!? *LOL*