SouperSport

FOR SALE: 2004 YAMAHA BANSHEE (350cc, 2-stroke) I've decided to go back to 2 wheels again, so I am selling my GREEN STICKER Banshee, in order to buy a new dirt bike. A couple years ago, I bought two partially complete Banshees (a 1991 & 2004) and built one mean machine out of them. Since the 1991 Banshee is a Green Sticker ATV (no riding restrictions), I used the 1991 frame as the platform to build this machine, but EVERYTHING else is actually from the 2004 Banshee or was bought new. So even though the Title says 1991, it is mostly a 2004 Banshee. (I also have 2004 Title and Frame for verification. As well as many extra parts if you want them.) Of course this machine needs no introduction. You are all more than aware of the capabilities of this machine, so I'll just do without the gab, and get on to the list... The pics show an older set of plastics, but I have installed an new set of sticker-free black plastics. Still have both sets, though. It has been well maintained and usually starts on the very first kick and Runs Excellent!! Modifications: Toomey T-5 pipes w/ custom Trinity Stage IV spark arrestors (only set like them) Toomey 2:1 HFFS (High Flow Filter system)... OE airbox removed Custom powercoated frame and swingarm (Metallic Candy Red) Dynojet Jet kit Magnum Pro Billet Clutch Basket Full Aluminum Skid plate & swing arm skid Aluminum Radiator guard (also powder coated to match) AC to DC lighting conversion with 9 Amp-hr 12V battery Trailtech SCMR16 HID lights (super bright!!) Key relocation bracket hiding key under seat ITP Holeshot HD tires front & rear (Newer tires than shown in the Picture) NEW Fly Racing handlebars w/ OE thumb throttle installed (not twist throttle shown in the Picture) Asking $4,500 OBO. If you want all the Extra parts, I

I do a wide variety of riding. Mostly trails, desert, and a little MX. Stock except for pipes and air filter. Just curious what size tires you recommend for front & rear. I'm specifically considering the Holeshot HDs. 21 or 22 on the rear? I see allot of people run 22s on the front (21s are stock). Are 23s too big? Would you ever use 23s on the front? I inadvertently order a 23 inch HD tire for the front... wondering if I should swap it for smaller tire or go ahead and mount it? Haven't ordered the rear yet. Let me know what you think. Thanks!

Another fact to make note of... A regulator (that limits to voltage to 12V) is not as current sensitive as a rectifier. You can really boost the current, but it still runs fine at 12volts and you just have allot more current. A rectifier for DC (as trailtech sells), is very sensitive to current. You can only boost it so much. A 150watt regulator/retifier will only put out 150watts MAX. It may take a slightly higher input, but will only output 150w. If the input is way over 150w you can fry the rectifier. just a thought.

In case someone didn't mention it earlier, the main difference between 2-stroke and 4 stroke stators is this. A 2-stroke generally uses AC power (alternating current). One end of the wire is grounded to the stator and the current alternates back and forth through the entire system. Basically anything thet runs exactly the same when you attach either lead to power (or switch ground and power), such as lights will run on AC. A 4-stroke uses DC power. It is a direct one way flow of current. A starter motor (as most 4-strokes have) require current traveling one way (DC current) to keep the motor turning the same direction. Reverse the current it rotates the other way. (With AC power, for instance, the current alternates so fast, a DC motor won't even turn.) To accomplish DC power, both leads (ends of the wire) from the stator are run to a regulator/rectifier. The regulator portion limits it to 12volts. The rectifier portion "fixes" the AC signal, so it becomes a constant one way output to one wire and provides a new ground to complete the circuit. Make sense? (I hope so... it's pretty complicated) Although LEDs are a diode and polarity sensitive, LEDs, for instance, will run on either. With AC you can hook either lead to power or ground and it will light because at a given moment the current will instantaneously flow in the correct direction to light it. An LED on DC will run brighter beacuse the current is always flowing in the same direction, however it must be connected correctly or it won't light (reversed polarity). I've been considering a stator rewind myself and been doing some research... Just a note about rewinding. Watts = Voltage x current (amperage). From what I understand, more wraps on the stator coils equals higher voltage. Thicker wire equates to more current (amperage). With a regulator it "regulates" the current to 12 volts, so you are pretty much locked in at the same voltage anyway, so it's current you must increase for lighting (ignition coil has no regulator...explained later). Better to stick with the same number or wraps (45) or close (slightly more if anything) and just use slightly larger wire for the coils. That will give you the extra current you want, and therefore more watts. The ignition coils are more sensitive to voltage changes than current. You don't need lots of current to jump a spark between two electrodes (the spark plug), but you do need lots of voltage. The more voltage, the better the spark. That's why the ignition has no regulator and the stator coil for ignition uses smaller wire and LOTS of wraps (335). You can pretty much follow a write-up for a 4-stroke stator, just remember that one end of the magnet wire will need to be soldered back to the stator as it originally was. If you are converting to DC ("floating the ground"), you'll keep both wires disconnected (from the stator) and run them to the regulator/rectifier. Hope that helps. If I can find the source of this info again I'll post a link.

Just talked to them today! They are backordered on the MR16. But they plan another production run this week and should have some to ship by mid-late next week. Haven't ordered mine yet. Waiting for next production run. Calling them on tuesday to see if I can get them by presidents day. So even the spots have a brighter "field of vision" than the regualr torch floods? I was thinking one spot & one flood MR16 until I get a second set of lights (MR11 floods) for "low beams", but now I'm thinking maybe I ought to just start out both with spots. Plenty bright, huh? BTW... headed to Glamis for Presidents day!! First Glamis trip!!

Looking for a Banshee for a friend. Want's a newer Banshee with Green sticker, located somewhere in the Souther California area. (Unless your willing to drive halfway to meet). Could be modded, stock, whatever. Must be in good running condition and ready to ride! Price negotiable. Send me offers and/or pics and I'll pass the info along to my friend. (email preferred)

Impressed on phone... yeah. Impressed in person... NOT AT ALL! I had worked a few extra hours this week so I could take off early and drive down to huntington beach to pik up my stuff. Then, just in case, Called the shop today... Called them up this morning and it's not ready!! Keep in mind I dropped my stuff off 2 1/2 WEEKS ago!! They said 3-5 days!! Seems they screwed up my PowderCoat! Apparently they got thier racks switched and PC'd one whole rack blue and the other all Candy Red. Well my frame and parts are supposed to be candy red, but apparently they got PC'd blue. SOOOO, they had to strip it all back down and are schedule to re-shoot it on Monday!! Needless to say, I'm a little pissed! I realize mistakes happen, but I was supposed to pick it up a week and a half ago!! You'd figure they'd at least put a rush on it or call and let me know or something! Had my WHOLE day figured out... had made plans for the day, and a few stops while I was down there, and well... my day got totally SCREWED up!!! All I can say, is it better be worth it!! Since it has already been stripped again, I told them to go ahead and spray it with the Candy Red "Sparkle". All I can say, is with all this trouble, I better get a free upgrade (to the sparkle) or a discount. Not a happy camper!

I called the guys at Imperial today... may have been just a one time thing, but they seemed very unprofessional on the phone. Called 3 Times...first time: said he'd call back in 20 min with a quote. He Didn't! Second time: he was playing "dumb" like he couln't understand me...seems he had better things to do.I hung up! Third time: put me on hold and forgot to pick-up again! I Gave up! EVENTUALLY, he called me back with a quote but I had to explain everything and every part I wanted done. Seems he still didn't know what he was talking about and was trying to sell me on a "primer", but he quoted me $250 to powdercoat the frame, a-arms, and clutch cover a candy Red (2-stage). Seemed unprofessional... I wouldn't take it to him if He quoted me $20!! I'm sorry!! I did however get a list of about 15 other PC shops in the so-cal area! and called them all! Was near closing time so I only got about of about 5 or 6 but I left messages with the rest. I got a quote from Hawk Industry Products in Covina to sandblast and powdercoat my frame a-arms and clutch cover. And that was a Candy color (Candy Red)!!! He quoted me $175! Not too shabby! One shop in Lancaster quoted me $400 bucks!!! Stay away from here...they're expensive! Cheapest was $350. I also talked to the owner of Primo Powder Coating & Sandblasting in Huntington Beach! He couldn't give me a quote 'cause he has a manager that takes care of everything for him and he's out until Tuesday, but he was a VERY COOL guy and said he'd call back when he got ahold of the shop manager. He dd say it would probably be around $180-$200, but he was just guessing. He was very professional on the phone and talked about his shop, the volume and quality they do, and their experience. Really great guy!! If the actual cost is anywhere close to what he quoted me, I'll likely be taking my parts to them! Seemed to be the only shop that really knew their stuff! And by the way... Primo Powder Coating was the only shop I got ahold of that knew what a "Banshee" was when I mentioned it. It was funny... the guy that answered the phone first, when I told him I wanted a quote on PCing a Banshee frame, he said "A Banshee? My Favorite...." *LOL* Donno if he was joking or not, but he at least knew what I was talking about, so they at least know their stuff!! I can email a list of the shops to anyone that wants them. Just send me an email! Or you can find them on "Super pages"

Just curious what type of a-arms would be best for heavy, aggressive trailing; moderate duning; and some minor MXing? What applications are suited for Long Travel A-arms? Why Gullwing style (or is that simply "cosmetic")? 2+1 vs. 3+1 or othe combos?!? OPINIONS PLEASE!! The reason I ask, Is I (and a friend) am considering building some just for the Heck of it (I'd rather fab it myself than pay someone for theirs, if I can do it cheaper! And it's more fun that way.) And If NOT, then I want to know what kind of A-arms I should buy!! I figure the price would be just about the same for whichever style I design... I have all the equipment taken care of, and I will be making the fixures (jig) in the process, so once they are done I can make 2 or 3 extra in just a couple hours. I will however have to pay for my friends time in order for him to use all the equipment at his Fab shop. So the first set would be the most expensive, but if they turn out, I would probably make 2 or 3 extra sets and sell them to recoup' my costs (but still cheap for you). What do you think? (Feeler:) All I need are the measurements! If I can get those, we can get it done in a few hours (and pretty cheap) and I'll duplicate a couple, for a few people that want them. I'll probably R&D something similar to Roll Design or Gibsons, but probably with ball joints instead of Heim joints (seems that's what most prefer). I may highly discount a set for anybody that can help provide info on measurements, angles, lengths, and that kind of stuff (partial info does me no good..I can do that myself). Or anyone that has a "loaner" set I can copy..... Let me know!

Did anything break to warrant replacing the clutch? Any noise (rattling or anything) inside the case? All the gears inside the clutch cover look good? I had the same problem with shifting when my starter gear on the clutch broke. I found the pieces got wedged underneth the shift lever (next to the shift star). But since you have already removed the clutch cover and looked, I'm guessing it's not that. You might want to make sure that gasket material you mentioned isn't somehow wedged in there. If it's getting stuck, then it's likely some debris or something wedged in there keeping it from shifting. If you cannot find anything in the clutchside of the case doing so, then it will probably be inside the case. I would recommend, before you consider splitting the case, that you remove the shift shaft and make sure the roller is not somehow jammed up (which you will have to remove before splitting the case anyway). If you cannot find anything there, then its probably inside the transmission and you will probably have to split the case. Somethings jamming it up so keep looking... hope that helps. Good luck!!

Volkswagen Ball joints?!?! Really?!?! It just so happens I'll be replacing the ball joints on my VW pretty soon, so I'll have to see if they fit... (for future reference). Anybody ever done that?! (Why would you want to use VW ones anyway?)

Wish I could take all the credit!! They are actually designed by XGX Racing, and yes they are currently on the market. They have a ton of cool designs, but the cost more than your typical graphic kit. You want "custom"? It's gonna cost you!

105!!! No JokE!! that game is funny as hell!!! *LOL*

In BLUE?!?!? They sure do! That was my other option! I'm still undecided!The Blue is designed for blue fenders... I want some color contrast with my powdercoated frame, so If I went with blue, I donno what color to powdercoat the frame! I don't think there is enough black in them to look very good on black fenders. I'm gonna talk to the artist again and see what he thinks though! That's why I'm thinking about Red, it was designed for black fenders! (Black fenders with Candy RED PC'd frame!) XGX Racing has a ton of other fantastic designs too, for just about any ATV or dirtbike! Anyway Take a look at the blue! This is for a Yz125, but the Banshee ones are similar color!