RNBRAD

Just take off your clutch cover (after draining oil) and you will see the shift star at the lower left corner. Unbolt the gear shift foot lever, this will allow you to pull the shifting mechanism out of the way to get to the star. Just remove the center screw on the oem star with a phillips screw driver and carefull not to loose the small metal pin. Replace with modded star and reinstall everything in reverse order.

At least you have a pragmatic approach to your opinion that surely doesn't include any biases.

Yep I've be desenstized to those. Hell I think they are gonna pop up even when it's a legit pic.

Polishing the intake is really a waste of time. You want a rough texture for better fuel/air atomization.

Will you guys be there that Saturday following TG?

Jigsaw then a rol-loc polishing disc on a diegrinder for smoothing.

So basically your saying that your testicles are useless? Sorry couldn't resist. Anyway here's my personal boost bottle theory based on what I think the persons idea was for making a larger volume crossover tube. Which is prolly just me talking from my ass. When you have a piston traveling from bdc to tdc it creates a negative pressure in the intake tract. This negative pressure is obviously transfered to the boost bottle with it expelling its air/fuel mixture. At higher rpms the negative pressure gets greater in the intake tract because there is less time for crankcase filling and greater frictional forces. The boost bottle tries to alleviate this buy allowing the negative pressure to be equalized from 2 sources. By creating a larger volume "crossover tube" it acts like a capacitor, short storage for quick use. Whether it works or not is yet to be seen. Also wouldn't there be a slight postive pressure in the intake tract after the reeds close? Theres a back wave coming from the intake closing the reed, then you have a positive pressure from the momentum of the main charge that could transfer through the crossover tube. Hell I dunno, just shooting around some idea's.

Yea that does look killer!! You don't have to worry about frying your stator, it won't put out anymore than what it's rated at no matter how high a wattage bulb you put in your shee.

Depends where you want the power at in your powerband. It will definitely increase your power, you may also sacrifice some topend performance as well with increased compression. It's a give and take really, though the compression where your at should benefit your entire rpm range.

Actually polishing the exhaust is more to keep from transfering as much heat to the juggs. I can't see it increasing power any, other than power related to better cooling.

I wonder if the regular torches could be converted over? Hate to buy another complete set.

If you want to rehash an old topic, make it something you can expound on or have further questions about. No problems with that whatsoever and is recommended. Just don't congratulate someone on their 1st born when they are now in kindergarten.

I personally can't think of one disadvantage. Slower revving is a possibility but I don't see that it's a disadvantage when typically the stroker will make more power at a lower rpm than a stock stroke will. (example) If a stroker starts building power at 5k and end at 9.5k and a stock stroke builds power at 6k and ends at 10.5k. Is there an advantage of one over the other even if both produce the same peak hp? I'm sure there is also a "time factor" per say that it takes a motor under a certain load to rev through those rpm ranges.

Man that just ain't right. Was funny though!

Here I was feeling all bad for wes and stuff, glad I scrolled back. I hope wes has rebuilt his porn collection since this incident. Also makes me wonder why we were sitting by a camp fire at LS when wes has a tv in his trailer.

I wonder if they ever set those things up to see if someone will steal them and then bust ya? The Karma gods may still be with you though. Those tie downs may have been bad and ready to break and your quad could of broke down after an hour.

I would switch, no use risking it.

Ima have to do that too, wait 6 hrs then ride.

PM Bdbanshee on here, he's not on all the time or someone may have his number.

Don't tell me you talked to the secretary that answers the phone. She asks how may I direct your call. Ask for a techniciain!!!

Yea your right, it does state that, no doubt. Unfortunately that statement does not include the gold series fatty for the banshee. I just got off the phone with FMF just a little over an hour ago. Matt said they are nickel plated. You can't always believe everything you read. I've owned them I know what nickel is versus chrome. They were nickel. Save us the trouble and call them and find out for yourself. The fact is, no matter what you read, the FMF fatties are nickel plated!! They never have been chrome and they still are not chrome. Did I mention they are nickel plated?

4 mil cubs 68mm bore with clean-up port-875.00 Stroker crank-475.00 Pistons, wrist pins and rings-110.00 Timing plate-35.00 from RS Shift star mod- 20.00 Head with domes-275.00 Intake manifold and filters-200.00 For 1995.00, that's the biggest bang for the buck. Carbs will cost you around 3-400 depending on brand and you can recoop most of that by selling your stock juggs . Call Jeff at FAST Racing!!!

Old new don't matter. If it's a "Gold Series" FMF pipe it is nickel plated, that includes the fatty since it is a gold series pipe.

Saturate your steel wool with wd-40 before you do it.