RNBRAD

If Ken loses, he could always sick his little broether on Ortiz. Frank wore Ortiz out and I always thought Ken was a better fighter but not against Ortiz.

Yea semi-sythetic is an excellent opportunity for oil makers to make money. Reason is there is no governing factors that controls the amount of synthetic oil they have to place in the bottle to label it semi-sythetic. They can add 10% synthetic and charge you 50% more. We would be better off mixing our own and do it at a ratio of 50/50 for the same price and have a better product.

It's better in some ways and worse in others. To me it was a lot less technical the Socom 2. In 3 your teammates seem like they are a little smarter. Man sometimes they were so flippin dumb in 2 that I would be shooting at an enemy and they would walk right in front of my line of fire, just stupid. Anyway it's still worth having.

I use Ford Motorcraft, Conoco, Union 76 (all same oil) specifically in everything I drive cept I use Mobil 1 in the Benz. I'n my rocket I use Mobil 1 15-50, I used that in my banshee for years but switched to Conoco racing 20-50 in the tranny. I use Mobil 1 2t for the pre-mix. Knowing each company's refining process is probably one of the most important factors in choosing the oil you use, especially for you guys that run a non-synthetic pre-mix. Conoco, Chevron, Exxon, & Pennzoil all use a hydro or water refining process where others use a solvent refining process. The hydrocracker process is far superior to solvent refining. This means a more pure base oil (less contaminants). As oil burns in our 2 strokes, the more contaminants an oil has the more build up of the contaminants will be left behind after the oil is burned off. Most people don't or won't take the time to research out this info, I'm just lucky I get to pick the brain of a lubrication engineer from Conoco on a frequent basis. So I frequently get into debates with people about oils because there is so much misinformation floating out there. People are so fixed on the bottle they never really research who and how it's made. 95% of the time a person can buy the same oil straight from the manufacturer and not pay for a 2nd party's label. Meaning the 2nd party doesn't make the oil, they just put their name on it and charge you a little more, hype it up to be a specefic oil for their product like Harley, John Deere, Honda, Yamaha, Evinrude, Cub Cadet and the list could go on and on. So what's really funny about it is, your neighbor using the cheap (Wal-Mart) oil may just be using a better oil than you though you think yours is superior cause it has the so called better 2nd party label on it. Like I said before, Labels don't make the oil, look behind the label and find out exactly what's going on with your oil. Do your research before you slam an oil based on the bottle it's in. Thanks, just some crazy idea I came up with.

Honestly, your grandpa is more than likely correct. Reason being is that Johnson, Evinrude, Yamalube etc does not make the oil their label is on. The big name oil comapny's fight for the right to supply the oil for these specefic brand labels. It's knowing who makes the oil and what major oil company uses the most advanced refining processes as well as aditive packages. Most 2 stroke oils from the refiners are all created equal no matter if the label says recommended for 2 stroke atv's, or boats etc. It's all the same stuff. The company with the name chooses how to label and market it. If it's labeled for a specific item, they charge more for it. This goes back to the old debate that Harley's must use Harley oil, yadda yadda, which is a bunch of BS. Most people fall for this type of marketing cause they don't know any better. I'm just fortunate enough to have a dad that has worked in the oil industry for 25 yrs. I get the opportunity to see the test results when company's like Mobil try to tell Ford that their oil is better than Conoco. Then Ford says prove it!! Then they do a month of research and testing and spend countless thousands in testing. This goes far beyond the typical small company's 4 point ball bearing and mar testing they do to convince the lay person. Of course there is more profit and volume of oil sold for these big company's to supply the oil for labels like Ford Motorcraft. That account would be bigger than Amsoil, Golden Spectro and Red Line total sales combined. I like when people say Wal-Mart oil is crap. Thing is their oil at this time is one of the best oil's on the market. Most people have no clue who makes it, they just base it's performance on the bottle it's in. It's hard for some people to think outside the box and most people think when the oil is poured into a bottle, it somehow goes through some kind of transformation. lol

Don't use a hack. Totally killer game, just take your time and enjoy it. I went through it over a period of a year off and on till I finished all levels at the admiral level. Was awesome!!!

You feel better now?

No complaints here, just a few on some scam artists and one hacker. I defintely would let you know I did get a complaint IF I found the complaint as a legitimate reason to contact you. If your actions that warranted the complaints continued, after my contact, then I would pass along the info to Lee.

I know Russ's from Alloyboltz all fit perfectly. Only ones I had a problems with were the front rotor bolts. They stuck out too far and rubbed on the spindle. Other than that they were all perfect. Even the shock linkage, they were smooth (no threads) where the shocks eye is centered. I have in the past bought a set of the ss bolts from another guy (fastnerguy) off ebay. His bolts weren't near the quality of Russ's and some didn't fit. I even e-mailed him about them and he was like "oh well".

Light permanent press cycle on the washing machine usually does the trick. If they are real dirty then I hit them with high temp scrub in the dishwasher 1st.

While your at it, get some stainless staples or the zinc coated. Nothing looks worse that some old rusty staples holding on a nice seat cover.

Magic mix and mothers billet when I run out of the magic. Both hands down the best maintenance polishes I've ever used. The magic has an advantage as it is easier to use and also protects and seals your aluminum and you have way less oxidation and a longer shine. That stuff has saved me tons of work. Aluminum will generally get the whitish hue look after just a few months and sooner with frequent washes. The magic mix will maintain a shine as if just polished for over a year.

So where are these cubs leaking? Do they leak to the outside or to the inside of the cylinder? Is it one side v/s the other? Is there any trends?

I got ya in my prayers, get well soon!!!

Your spitting oil mix now because your crank case was loaded from the lack of combustion before. It will build up them spit it out at higher rpm's. If it's running ok now it should clear up after some riding time. Not sure how long, really depends on how much was built up.

That's fine and dandy, but you know what? I'm still the champion here. :laugh: Actually you would have to double that high score to beat my old record before they cleared all the scores.

If you get a high score it's one of 2 things. Either I don't like the game, or I haven't had time to play it in a while. lol

Cascade polished these. It's an extra $200, and they really do an excellent job.

I use Roxio easy media creator 8. It's pretty sweet but takes a little time to learn.

It is pretty sweet. I just wonder if we could do a larger font. Either that or I need a bigger monitor. I'm an old fart ya know. lol

RPM bar none!!

If there is a religion based upon those attributes, I figure you would be all over that. You would be there most upstanding member. lol

I've never heard of such on the stator.Your idle sounds like you need to richen your air screws a half turn or go up a size on your pilots.

Happy Birthday!!!

What harm have I done if it's false? What harm have you done if it's true? lol