RNBRAD

That should be best answered by your porter.

Had the same problem with the left cylinder, come to find out the carbs were out of sync and so very slightly. Left slide was delayed a few MM's.

Yea, I have some links posted below. Be sure and look for 3rd party testing, I just hate to see some companies testing their own oil against others (Amsoil) cause we know those results surely couldn't be biased in any way. Know that all the major oil companies have toll free lines directly to oil engineers. Do not hesitate to use these guys instead of the parts guy at your local quad shack. The parts guys will almost put their life on the line defending their beliefs whether they actually know if it's fact or fiction. The best oil tests have never been public knowledge, though one can get their hands on it. The big oil conglomerates frequently have to compete for business having their oil tested against several other companies. It's big business with a lot of oil to sell. Ford motor company was a big account for Conoco, many oil companies have tried to get their business saying their oil is better than Conoco. Ford says prove it, and the results of these tests can be very interesting. As for Mobil 1, it is what I use. I also wouldn't hesitate using some others such as Amsoil. http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/oiltest1.htm http://www.vtr.org/maintain/oil-overview.html http://www.eric-gorr.com/techarticles/mototech_june_1999.htm

Such a debated topic like Ford v/s Chevy, Honda v/s Yamaha and so on. Though with a little research you can reference this for yourself and recommend you do so. As we would like to believe that if it cost's more it must be better. Not always true by any means. I just hate to see people spend 3 dollars and up on a quart of oil because it's "my quad's brand oil" and it's specifically formulated for it (this is total crap in the biggest sense). The main problem is that these manufacturer labeled oils cost more and are generally inferior in the sense that their semi-synthetics cost the same or more than full synthetic oils of oil brands such as Mobil 1 or Amsoil for example. Assuming equal availability it doesn't really matter how you slice it theres not a reason to use a semi-synthetic or blended oil over a full synthetic when price is the same. PERIOD!!!! These manufacturers branded oil prices are rediculous and have no merrit. They are ripping everyone off as far as I'm concerned.

I'm not sure about the NOSS heads but some heads do not flow the water correctly for the most efficient cooling. At one time Trinity had the only one that would so Trinity would be a good choice.

All standard bars are really close in strength, wall thickness and such untill you get into some of the exotic stuff. I'd say find the one with the color and style that you like and go with it. Here's my pic, i've used Renthal and Tag's but the FMF's use a little stronger aluminum. You can't tell a knats ass between them and I would go with whatever I could get the cheapest. 7075 fmf 909's 7010 Renthal 7049 Tag

Maybe he doesn't offer a porting style to complement the pipes. The stock porting on the banshee is so bad that a mild port will help regardless of the pipe.

YES, IT IS SAFE!!! switching oils will not cause a problem. Oils have changed dramatically in the last 20 to 30 yrs and some of the DON'TS still come up from time to time when not all oils were compatible as they would precipitate and gell. That is not the case today and all oils I know of are compatible. As for changing your pre-mix ratio, yes you will sacrifice longevity by running a higher ratio. Most people get around this issue by running a higher quality oil such as a synthetic thus allowing them to run at a higher ratio. I'm not sure if you are talking pre-mix oil specifically or tranny oil. As for tranny oil I would use a good automotive synthetic oil as motorcycle specific oils are very expensive and can be hard to find in small towns. Just be sure that the automotive oil does not have Moly additive i.e Mobil 1, as it is such a good friction reduction molecule that it will cause your clutch to slip. As for claims on motorcycle specific oils being superior over automotive oils, for several different reasons, has been proven to be overexaggerated and not all fact. I use nothing but Mobil 1 15w-50 in all my quads and my motorcycle. For pre-mix I use Mobil 1 MX-2t.

White Knuckle Racing has them for 299.00.

Check this link, very informative with pics included done on a Banshee. http://www.bluetraxx.com/axle_bearing_install_1_new.htm

RPM Dominator is what I ended up buying. I talked to Janssen racing who recommended them based on their warranty stating they had the least problems with them with warranty issues. I also called RPM to order some parts directly and was just shooting the bull with the guy over the phone, told him I purchased their axle and was unable to get it through the carrier very easy. He said sometimes the chrome can be a little thick and maybe it was missed when they use the ring to check clearance. He said if I have any more trouble to just send it back and they would replace it with a new one. This was an example to me that they won't hesitate in the least regarding warranty issues.

I use Galfer on the Banshee and use Goodridge on the CBR. Both great lines. For the front you will need extended lines with plus+2 a-arms. The rear line is totally different. Found that a stock length line would of probably worked well with my +4 swingarm. I ended up getting a plus+2 line and worked well. As for mounting the T-piece I really couldn't mount it anywhere and found that I centered in between the front stock tabs. I didn't run my Galfers through the square center but ended up bending the tabs toward the motor and slightly pinching the Galfer lines into them. I covered the Galfers with protective plastic tubing prior to do this and also zip tied them to these mounts. It really worked well and took some thought to do it right. If anyone wants pics feel free to e-mail me at [email protected] and I will send you some.

I've yet to get some tangible evidence for welding cranks and quite the contrary. I try to do a reasonable amount of research to the extent of what's at my disposal. Maybe some members can enlighten me either way but would like some kind of measure or a educated opinion. What I have found comes from the history of sponsored Rd350's and TZ350 race bike teams. These bikes run anywhere from 75 to 90 bhp and when specifically talking about these bikes cranks they do not recommend welding them . Truing is a different story. These bike engines I thought may be a good place to look for answers on this debated topic since they experience rpm and horsepower extremes. From what I have found that applying heat to the crank throws it out of balance which decreases performance and longevity. I have also had company's that do this modification not recommend it stating that when your crank is going to seperate that a weld is not going to stop it. I know you have to take in a lot of variables because I'm sure not all trued and welded cranks are equal. Also these race bike engines and riding conditions may not exactly match that of what a Banshee owners machine may experience and a Banshee crank may be far inferior to those of these race bikes (I'm unsure). It could be just a quality control issue of crank balance from the factory or poor owner maintenance practice and this may have been thought as a quick fix without any real world controlled comparison testing. Either way I'm open to input. Heres some links about the rd350 and tz350's as well as others. http://www.stannakajak.com/skalmanmc/rd350/mech/crank/ http://www.tz350.net/tztips.htm

Or Lowe's. I've noticed they don't carry the higher wattage bulbs such as the 75 watt. They do carry 50's.

If your seizing cast pistons your definitely going to seize a forged one. If I was to try and sum up cast versus forged, it depends on whether you want to change pistons more often or rebore your cylinders more frequently. http://www.motorcycleproject.com/motorcycl...ws-pistons.html Check this article out, it covers a lot of benefits and disadvantages of both. I've ran PRO-X pistons for a while with no trouble whatsoever, but they went in a perfect bore, installed correctly and broken in properly with proper jetting. You can't always blame your pistons for a short life.

Mobil 1 MX2T at 40:1

I raced my brother-in-laws RM250, I believe it was around a 2002 model. My Banshee was piped and that was about it. Only place we had to race was on a dirt road. We lined up and he told me to go whenever I got ready. Well I took off and he immediately wheelied past me like I was sitting still. I was like what the f@#$. We did it again with the same results. Anyway, I figured he was definitely getting way more traction than I was cause I sure couldn't wheelie the banshee on that dirt road, all I did was spin the tires wildly. I wanted a rematch on pavement and he refused so I couldn't say what would happen in that scenario.

I went with a Trinity stage IV and am very well pleased with the results. I experienced excellent and above average customer service as all of it was over the phone. They made sure all bases were covered with my expectations and tuning prior to porting. I didn't want to send perfectly polished jugs to just anybody. They were returned without a scratch. The internal porting was an absolute work of art and they gave me complete jetting specs for my mods that were spot on. One thing I noticed in particular is that these guys are honest in reality rather than just trying to make the sale. So I ended up buying some parts that they do not carry from other manufacturers. There are quite a few company's that do really good port jobs and most of them are a little different from the next. Some have many different port styles and some have just a couple. In reality Its all about how much power, where you want the power and how wide the power band will be. Its a give and take relationship. Everybody has a different opinion on whats best. Do the research and find out whats best for you. Then you just have yourself to blame when you screw up.

Excellent information and pics, great polishing work. Also Caswellplating.com has an excellent booklet in pdf that breaks down the polishing process and covers a lot of the tools used in the process.

You might check with dacus transport. I know he is the cheapest in the country for hauling cars. He's a real nice guy, tell him Brad sent ya. www.dacustransport.com

Don't forget to check out Trinity Racing's Z400 exhaust system. I've yet to see an exhaust system as well built, not even high end sport bike systems.