sandornothing

ebay.....dirt cheap too

I just fought that battle too, mine is on its way to Boonman right now. Dont forget a strap wrench to hold the flywheel while youre crankin on it to break it loose.... and buy a good one from Mac or Craftsman or Snap-on. Cheap ones can and will break and will have adverse affects on your knuckles.

If you want to get rid of the over flow bottle you can. Everyone i know advised against it because youre supposed to leave room somewhere for the coolant to expand, and when it cools back down (in theory) the radiator should have enough vacuum to suck the coolant back in. But i believe that if the coolant needs to expand then youre already over heating and boiling over and your bike needs to be shut off anyway. Here is what i did. Remove the bottle, ran the over flow hose that is located right by the radiator cap down the frame in the front of my bike, and zip tied it somewhere down by the a arms. I did it this way because i wanted to see if my engine ice was boiling out of the hose after a hard ride (never has happened yet). Ive been riding in Glamis the last 2 weekends in a row and i havent lost any coolant at all. And i was running it hard enough for my pipes to blue even. Now that is not to say that every banshee will do the same as mine with this set up. My bike runs really cool right now (alum impeller, cool head, 2 in-line cooler, and engine ice) so im sure it that all helps out in that area. But id say if your cooling system is at the top of its game go for it, it'll save you a little weight as well.....not much but every little bit helps.

Dude that is a sweet set up. I did the same myself. It feeds your motor the same amount of air as clamp-ons do, but without the hassle of burnt outerwares from the pipes. I went up from a 300 main (lid removed) to a 330 main (air box cut off). I hope youre riding in dry terrain because this set up will screw you in wet shit. Your filters will require some more attention now, I clean my filter and outerware every night when we're out at the dunes. Youre going to want to go up on the pilot too. I did 30's, and 2 full turns on the air screw. Hope this helps......it helped me.

My wife runs them on her banshee. They feel pretty much the same throughout as my fattys, but seem to pull a little harder in the end because of the larger expansion chamber and a bit more of a straight thru design. As far as the sound, they sound like something between a Power Core 2 and toomey, that probally doesnt help much but to me they all sound the same once its in the pipes wide open. The silencers are maybe a half inch thicker in diameter than toomey silencers if that helps. I thinks that determines how louder they are.

yeah it was a little wet and choppy around gecko and hooker point from those damn 600HP rails digging trenches everywhere, but if you get way back in the dunes between olds and the camp their was alot damp virgin dunes everywhere. My 21 inch geckos felt like they where glued to the sand. As soon as i got it in the pipes, the front end was up at a 45. Anyway im hoarding this dudes "dome" post. Post guy, drop a question about the setup if youve got one. I'll try my best to help.

Here is what you can do to safely run 20cc domes on pump gas. Get 2 inline coolers off ebay, theyre dirt ass cheap. Flush your rad and fill it with Engine Ice. All of this, and the added cooling of the aluminum head allows me to run 20cc domes on 91 octane at 32:1 with no adverse effects. Good choice on the Noss head, if im correct they use the stock studs. The stock studs are a bitch to take out. If I would have gone that route i wouldve had it done and running in 20 minutes. Also dial in your jetting if it isnt already. A lean motor is a hot motor, and hot motors have a tendancy to detonate (ping) easier. If youve got 93 octane where youre at yourre definately OK. By the way, 20cc domes only gave me 160 psi on a MAC compression tester. Its a good cheap combo that wont jail rape you when it comes time to buy gas , go for it. Oh, and Glamis was the shit this weekend, see you guys there next weekend maybe!

Why does everyone knock heim joints? I run them in the dunes with a pair of triple rate works and that set up puts the stock set up to shame in reliability and performance. I chose them because i do not MX, just dune. Im not pounding woops like i would be at a track, so i guessing i will be alright.......right?

Run 20cc domes, you'll enjoy the new and improved grunt of your bike. I run them on 91 octane w/ Fattys, V Force 2s, and an open air box (and some other useless crap) on an otherwise stock motor. Expect around 45-50 horse with that setup.....Ive never dynoed, but this what Alba tells me.

i dont see why not. i wouldnt do it on a reg. basis, but in a pinch try it out. just mash that brake lever. do you not have an impact or shop air? No i dont, but ive got easy acces to both. Ive just got to load up the bike in the back of the rig and go over to the shop. I was just thinking i could knock it out real quick this afternoon after work before the sun went down. I keep and work on mine and my wifes banshees in our 24ft Carson toy hauler. (no garage for big tools).

If someone were to sit on the bike while it was in gear, and holding the back brake down while i crank it off (and torque it back on) would that hold the fly wheel in place or no? I dont have a strap wrench and im not looking to buy one if i have other options.

Holy shit, now that is a long winded sentence. I know the feeling bro, i get all pissed at my bike sometimes and start talking shit like that too. But i'll try and help out. You said " i have spark im pretty sure....."?? or "im pretty sure i flooded it"?? Not sure which one you meant but if you meant to say the first one, then make sure you unplugged that plastic connector thing right behind the pet cock. Connected w/ TORS, disonnected w/ TORS removal. Try that.

Alright, whats the deal with the damn bolt on the crank? Do i need a impact wrench to get it off or what? Someone in here sent me a link to the "Banshee Zone" website and it said do not use an impact wrench on this installation, it could damage something in the stator. What gives?

I had it apart today looking at the stock setup to make sure i wasnt gonna be in over my head before i went and bought the key and fly wheel puller. I would think that putting a little anti-seize on the crank, not so much where the key goes, i'll be alright. With the nut torqued to 60 ft lbs on the taper, i doubt its gonna even budge anti-seize or not. Im goin for it, and im gonna use anti-seize because i might need to pull the son of a bitch out if its a "over heater".

Yeah, ive heard the horror stories about the key shearing off in there. That was going to be my next question, how reliable is it? but it looks as if it has been answered already "hit or miss" right? If i go with the adjustable stator plate will i need to get a timing light and set that again. Can someone in a nutshell explain the install on that one and i'll weigh the difference indifficulty and go with the best bang i guess. Are domes and a timing advance enough for a 15 tooth front sproket in the dunes? I do a little of it all out there.... race, hill shoot, dune, jump, and the occasional over the bars leap down the razor or into the witches eye.

As my screen name says, Im soley a duner. If i decide on this this mod, is it one of those "trade off" mods where you loose more topend but gain bottom end? or vise versa? Also, with mods in my sig, i run the premium pump fuel here in san diego which is 91 octane, and beleive it or not with no adverse affects. However, if i do this +4 timing key my Qs are: does this timing advance assist in over heating? Will i be OK with a 50/50 blend of VP 110 and premium pump fuel? And if this is a low end enhancing mods, and the fact that ive got good compression with the C.H. 20cc's, will it be enough to go to a 15 tooth front sproket?

dude, why youre already into it, get rid of the TORS. It will make it that much easier to do any kind of maintainence related to your intake system in the future. 1st shit can the TORS, 2nd do what he said and go get a thumb throttle cable (TORS delete), 3rd download the instruction from the Toomey website. It tells you in detail how to do EVERYTHING.... set up new idle screws, put your new throttle cable in the carb slides, how to sync them up, ect. You cant go wrong with this instruction. I used the very same one a couple of months ago to tackle the same job. Plus, the upside of doing your own work is you'll become more familiar with your carbs and how everything is working making you more confident to do things later on like jetting, carb swap carb cleaning....you get the picture.

Making adjustments to the damn steering, from the bars, to all the way down to the tie rods at the spindles. Im caught up in the nightmare right now.

I just looked at the part diagram fische again from the alba website and i was looking at the wrong diagram. I was looking at the "steering" diagram and the "frame" diagram shows an holder bearing (#22 in the diagram) and that is what im missing. The thing that gets me is that this holder bearing has been missing all this time i guess, and ive never had this problem because this is the first time ive opened it all up in trying to figure out what is wrong. Now i just need to get this bearing and figure out how and the hell im gonna get my hands down in there to thread it in. Thanks all that helped

Thanks Monk, here is my email: [email protected]

noob, you can get the whole assembly from your local dealer, or order it from albaaction.com, or ebay. Either way you do it, when it is all put back togather let me know how it went, and if youre getting the same problem as me. You seem to be my only hope since youre in the same boat as im in. Thanks bro

Monk Believe it or not, i followed that perfectly. Ive spent about 10 hours on this the last 2 days, so im with you. You said from top to bottom it should look like this: Seal, screw down retainer, bearing, collar (brass right?), seal, and then a washer and nut fasten the stem into it right? Well this is the first time ive ever had this apart. Like is said, when putting on the A-arms the closest i got to the steering was unscrewing the tie rods off of the ball joints on the steering stem. After finishing the arms and alignment, I put it all back togather and now this this! But here is how mine goes: seal, bearing (this is the part tht moves up and down and i dont think it should), collar, seal, washer and nut. You said something about a screw down retainer. That sounds like what should be holding my bearing in place but both the fische or the service manual doesnt show a screw down retainer in this assembly.

Man i wish it might be that too, but i checked it out with the radiator off. Here is a better idea of what is going on....everything is all assembled correctly, and i crawl underneath it. Keep in mind the stem doesnt shake side to side, but when someone pulls up on the bars the whole bearing assembly and shaft move up and down about a quarter of an inch. I used that OEM parts fiche on Albas website and there is a top and bottom oil seal, the bearing itself, and a shim, and the washer and nut that fasten the stem into the frame and its all there on my bike and in good shape, but for what ever reason since i installed those arms this bearing assembly now moves up and down. Im stumped, ive never even heard of shit like this. I think im just gonna take out a second morgage and take it in to Alba.

I wish i could say it might be the wrong bearing causing this to happen, but that is the same assembly Yamaha installed back in 99 when it was new. It shouldnt have anything to do with these new A-arms i just installed, the factory tie rods came off nice and easy. I swear that is the only thing i touched that had anything to do with the steering stem. Everything with the A-arms installed nice and easy, hell even the alignment and camber/caster setting went smooth. Do the longer +2 tie rods have anything to do with this, maybe causing the steering to bind up? What gives, i dont want to have to take this thing to Alba for something this simple but im running out of ideas.

Let me start by saying im a newby here at HQ. I been following it for a while but never signed up, so ithought i'd try it out because i see alot of things get resolved here. I cant seem to figure out why the steering stem isnt snug where it meets the frame. I pulled the bearing assembly out and it all appears to be in great condition. Here is what happens...with the bearing assembly installed and the shaft is tightened down to Clymer specs, you can pull up on the bars and the stem lifts up about a quarter of an inch. So pulled it all apart again and i can stick my finger in there and jiggle the bearing up and down that quater of an inch i was talking about. WTF? The shafts isnt bent or anything like that. Like i said WTF?