I am looking to put on some new carbs for the new season and I want a pair of Keihin 30mm carbs. I have the mods in my sig. Do you think I would be better off buying a pair of 28mm and boring them to a 30mm or what. Also I have looked on ebay and I was wondering if anyone has run these. CLICK HERE.
I want a new set because I have read that boring the stock carbs won't give me any power gain. Help Please.
Hey I need to know what size the piston ring gap needs to be on a standard bore banshee. Can anyone tell me what it is. Does the gap size depend on the mods. If so there in my sig. Thanks
Sweet! Thanks. I'll put em in. Also what type of break in cycle do you run. The Clymers says to run 16:1 premix in it and ride it and let it cool then ride it and let it cool. Is this what you guys did.
I just bought a set of Wiesco Pro light pistons. They came with the piston rings and I dont know if they are different. By different I mean is one thicker or thinner or which one goes on top or bottom. The instructions don't say anything about it. They just state that the rings can be used on either side meaning up or down. Will you help me out Please. Thanks
I went to the local shop the other day and bought a set of reed spacers. What they handed me was a spacer that was about 1 inch thick. Do you think they will be ok? or should I have the shop cut one in half?
Same as title. I have talked to someone that had the 2's and then bought the 3's and said that there wasn't a difference. So I thought I would ask everyone here. Can anyone tell me if there is a difference in performance between the two?
I'm not quite sure if you loose compression, but I had to do it to mine. I had 20cc domes in the cool head and once I had her ported I had to drop to some 17cc domes. You wont have to get a new head if yours is stock. Just have it milled.
I had a O-ring slip out of my cool head and it started to smoke like hell out of the right side. So I had to pull the head again and sure enough I had smashed on of the o-rings in the middle section of the cool head. Theres nothin gyou can do with out taking it apart and checkin it out.
Race gas is the best smelling stuff. I get my 110 octane for about $3.94 per/gal here. I don't think you can get that high of octane with out lead. I could be wrong though. Lead only messes up catalytic converters on cars and trucks so you dont have a problem.
I am going to pull the crank to have it trued and welded. Is there any type of instruction manual to do it or am I just going to have to pull it apart by feal. I would just let the shop do it but $310 doesn't quite sound like a bargan. Can anyone give me some advise as what to do and what not to do. Thanks
I am looking at taking my engine out and having the crank trued and welded. I thought that while it was at the shop I might as well have it bored out and have a big bore kit put in. My question is what size pistons am I going to need for the 400cc kit? Also how much will my cylinders have to be bored out?
I just had the jugs ported and I had to add a 17cc dome. I am running about a 151psi compression due to the elevation of about 4500 feet. My question is how long before I will need to get my crank trued and welded. I wanted to run it through this up comming season with out having to do it but I don't want it to break down on me and cost even more in repairs. Do you think it will be ok or not until next year?
My twist throttle was one of the first thing that I put on my bike. I also ride trails and alot of dunes, so i am in and out of the throttle alot. I love it and I wouldn't ever go back to the thumb throttle.
The jugs just got an aggressive dune port job. My question is, Do I need to rejet the carbs? I am runing 280s mains and stock pilots. Needle is in the middle. I ride 4500 feet above sea level. I also just changed to 17cc domes.